Zenith

Its interesting to see the different views and experiences that come from all over the place and from different people. Its even more interesting to see the real lack of knowledge that exists (or doesn't exist for that matter) from some people. I am very diplomatic when it comes to workshops about who produces good work and who does not. I say this because I am good friends with those who own/work at three different workshops around Brisbane so I hear views and opinions from people about all 3, yet i stay neutral. I have seen customers do the rounds to every workshop as they aren't "happy" and i will hear from the workshops the same view about that customer often. All dynos read differently, all tuners tune differently, some are busier than others and some have no work. Would you go to a work shop who is constantly empty, and think to your self they must get their work in and straight out. Or would you choose a workshop who has cars in there constantly. I know for a fact that some cars will sit there not being worked on because as projects their current bill to the point has not been paid for. So just because something can not be done there and then when you want it doesn't mean you should come on the internet and bitch about it. As for your stalling issue my friend, if you search around you will find that it is a common Nissan problem, not a Haltech problem (albeit yours could be). I know of a Nissan that doesn't have an after market ECU or a turbo and it does it constantly, will not rev when cold and will stall, will start and idle like a pig for a few seconds and when the clutch is pressed in when warm it will stall. Many people have had different theories - injectors, grounding, AFM, ICV, ISC, AAC, ERG. So do some research on it. Regardless of what you think and your experiences, workshops that don't meet every single persons high expectations will not suffer, those who are happy with their work will continue to seek their expertise. I have seen it time and time again. Yes, some people that come online portray very one sided views and there is always another side. So everyone should try not to get caught up in other peoples woes and decide for themselves and keep it too them self. Zenith....

Good that you got it fixed and cheaply too. I managed to remove a starter motor from a FWD pulsar, the starter motor is under the inlet manifold, and to get to it, all the inlet piping before the throttle butterful had to be removed to get to the botls. Then the car had to be jacked up and remove starter motor from underneath. I found it too be the bushes had worn right out and were scraping on the commutator, so it was still starting with lots of screeching. The bushes on the starter motor usally last around 90k - 100k Kms. I would think that starter motor from a RWD car would be much easier to remove being on the side of the bellhousing in the trans tunnel.

Try rotating the tyres (not the tyre and rim) just the tyres every say 3000-5000kms, alternate which side the worn part of the tyre so its on the outside, it should allow the tyres to last double what they last atm.

From the small amount of research that i have done on my aircon problem i think i have found why it is continually blowing the fuse, like daveharvey.ca. Someone said that the magnetic clutch in the aircon compressor is drawing too much current and is shorting the fuse many people have had sucess with getting it respun, there are a few threads on here about it. If anyone finds any other way of fixing this please let me know. Thanks Zenith

Fair enough, I meerly pointed out what i could see from the graphs, nothing else.

Im not here to say who is better than who, but what i am going to point out is some oberservations. Hp or Kw, either graph shows 207kw basically. So the power is effectively the same after either tune. The Lambda graph is not the Afr's but the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust gas. Conversion in this link here: http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/info5301.htm The lambda graph shows the first tune registers just above .70 volts and the second tune registers .80 volts. Now whilst at the Allstar dyno day i was show the Afr's from a BT&T car, and they are quite rich, prelonging engine life. Now if the second tune has the volts higher then according to that site the mixtures are leaner? Secondly Col you say that the torque comes on fatter and sooner. Looking at the line in the graph then yes, but looking at the units down the bottom, no. The first graph from the 4th of May, shows that 1380NM (there abouts) is achieved at 3170rpm. The second graph from the 20th May, shows that 1410Nm (there abouts) is achieved at 3640rpm. Even when you run along the first graph you can see at 3490rpm its makeing 1400Nm. A difference of 10NM less at 240rpm less. Now if you look along both graphs trying to match up similar Rpm and see what the torque is, you will find there is a difference of about 80NM more torque that the second tune makes. This can probably be attributed to the fact that the second tune is slightly richer than before. From these graphs i can see one tuner is tuning richer than the other, both achieving the same amount of Hp, but one with less torque. Take it as you will just something to think over. Now I dont care who everyone thinks is better than the next cause i go to neither of them, im just pointing out what i can see.

Taken from another forum.

I will try and get all the results off Daniel asap or get him to send them too you.

Yeh the N1 or HKS oil pumps are good, and flow around 50lts at 6000rpm. You can go bigger injectors as you have the Pfc to accompany it. The standard fuel pump is pretty good for a bit over 400hp (look at SK thread about pumps) at the wheels, but when tuning it put a fuel pressure gauge on the lines to see if there is a decrease at high rpm, then you will know to replace the pump and new reg then. Hows your clutch going?, is it standard as well?

If you havent done this you really should before it costs you a lot more moeny. Rip the oil pump off fit a crank collar to the crank shaft and refit a new N1 oil pump.This might save it from blowing, or might not, only time will tell with a 16yr old engine at that hp. Ohh and if your at 400hp as you say then your standard injectors (presuming they are standard) will need replacing.

Who does your Tuning? I presume if you work in geebung and got it through Zac at SVI Id say All Star?

Message jas/slo32, he has done the rb26/30 conversion on his R32 Gtst, also has a GT45r hanging off it pushing around 800hp. Heres some info - http://www.qldstreetcar.com/forum/index.ph...topic=11898&hl=

This is from Mainline website, read it and it should hopefully shead some light on things. http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/products/br...HOWACCURATE.PDF Allot of the differences can be put down to the operator.

Toy R33, Polish it, get it all polished it looks really good. Speak to this guy hes in brisbane Xtreme Polishing Nathan Piotrkowski 0413 412 911 Here is some of his work.

Quick question, where did you get that engine decal on the spark plug cover from?, Engine looks good, nice work.