Zenith

Its interesting to see the different views and experiences that come from all over the place and from different people. Its even more interesting to see the real lack of knowledge that exists (or doesn't exist for that matter) from some people. I am very diplomatic when it comes to workshops about who produces good work and who does not. I say this because I am good friends with those who own/work at three different workshops around Brisbane so I hear views and opinions from people about all 3, yet i stay neutral. I have seen customers do the rounds to every workshop as they aren't "happy" and i will hear from the workshops the same view about that customer often. All dynos read differently, all tuners tune differently, some are busier than others and some have no work. Would you go to a work shop who is constantly empty, and think to your self they must get their work in and straight out. Or would you choose a workshop who has cars in there constantly. I know for a fact that some cars will sit there not being worked on because as projects their current bill to the point has not been paid for. So just because something can not be done there and then when you want it doesn't mean you should come on the internet and bitch about it. As for your stalling issue my friend, if you search around you will find that it is a common Nissan problem, not a Haltech problem (albeit yours could be). I know of a Nissan that doesn't have an after market ECU or a turbo and it does it constantly, will not rev when cold and will stall, will start and idle like a pig for a few seconds and when the clutch is pressed in when warm it will stall. Many people have had different theories - injectors, grounding, AFM, ICV, ISC, AAC, ERG. So do some research on it. Regardless of what you think and your experiences, workshops that don't meet every single persons high expectations will not suffer, those who are happy with their work will continue to seek their expertise. I have seen it time and time again. Yes, some people that come online portray very one sided views and there is always another side. So everyone should try not to get caught up in other peoples woes and decide for themselves and keep it too them self. Zenith....

Good that you got it fixed and cheaply too. I managed to remove a starter motor from a FWD pulsar, the starter motor is under the inlet manifold, and to get to it, all the inlet piping before the throttle butterful had to be removed to get to the botls. Then the car had to be jacked up and remove starter motor from underneath. I found it too be the bushes had worn right out and were scraping on the commutator, so it was still starting with lots of screeching. The bushes on the starter motor usally last around 90k - 100k Kms. I would think that starter motor from a RWD car would be much easier to remove being on the side of the bellhousing in the trans tunnel.

Try rotating the tyres (not the tyre and rim) just the tyres every say 3000-5000kms, alternate which side the worn part of the tyre so its on the outside, it should allow the tyres to last double what they last atm.

From the small amount of research that i have done on my aircon problem i think i have found why it is continually blowing the fuse, like daveharvey.ca. Someone said that the magnetic clutch in the aircon compressor is drawing too much current and is shorting the fuse many people have had sucess with getting it respun, there are a few threads on here about it. If anyone finds any other way of fixing this please let me know. Thanks Zenith

Fair enough, I meerly pointed out what i could see from the graphs, nothing else.

Im not here to say who is better than who, but what i am going to point out is some oberservations. Hp or Kw, either graph shows 207kw basically. So the power is effectively the same after either tune. The Lambda graph is not the Afr's but the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust gas. Conversion in this link here: http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/info5301.htm The lambda graph shows the first tune registers just above .70 volts and the second tune registers .80 volts. Now whilst at the Allstar dyno day i was show the Afr's from a BT&T car, and they are quite rich, prelonging engine life. Now if the second tune has the volts higher then according to that site the mixtures are leaner? Secondly Col you say that the torque comes on fatter and sooner. Looking at the line in the graph then yes, but looking at the units down the bottom, no. The first graph from the 4th of May, shows that 1380NM (there abouts) is achieved at 3170rpm. The second graph from the 20th May, shows that 1410Nm (there abouts) is achieved at 3640rpm. Even when you run along the first graph you can see at 3490rpm its makeing 1400Nm. A difference of 10NM less at 240rpm less. Now if you look along both graphs trying to match up similar Rpm and see what the torque is, you will find there is a difference of about 80NM more torque that the second tune makes. This can probably be attributed to the fact that the second tune is slightly richer than before. From these graphs i can see one tuner is tuning richer than the other, both achieving the same amount of Hp, but one with less torque. Take it as you will just something to think over. Now I dont care who everyone thinks is better than the next cause i go to neither of them, im just pointing out what i can see.

Taken from another forum.

I will try and get all the results off Daniel asap or get him to send them too you.

Yeh the N1 or HKS oil pumps are good, and flow around 50lts at 6000rpm. You can go bigger injectors as you have the Pfc to accompany it. The standard fuel pump is pretty good for a bit over 400hp (look at SK thread about pumps) at the wheels, but when tuning it put a fuel pressure gauge on the lines to see if there is a decrease at high rpm, then you will know to replace the pump and new reg then. Hows your clutch going?, is it standard as well?

If you havent done this you really should before it costs you a lot more moeny. Rip the oil pump off fit a crank collar to the crank shaft and refit a new N1 oil pump.This might save it from blowing, or might not, only time will tell with a 16yr old engine at that hp. Ohh and if your at 400hp as you say then your standard injectors (presuming they are standard) will need replacing.

Who does your Tuning? I presume if you work in geebung and got it through Zac at SVI Id say All Star?

Message jas/slo32, he has done the rb26/30 conversion on his R32 Gtst, also has a GT45r hanging off it pushing around 800hp. Heres some info - http://www.qldstreetcar.com/forum/index.ph...topic=11898&hl=

This is from Mainline website, read it and it should hopefully shead some light on things. http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/products/br...HOWACCURATE.PDF Allot of the differences can be put down to the operator.

Toy R33, Polish it, get it all polished it looks really good. Speak to this guy hes in brisbane Xtreme Polishing Nathan Piotrkowski 0413 412 911 Here is some of his work.

Quick question, where did you get that engine decal on the spark plug cover from?, Engine looks good, nice work.

I could be intrested in one of them, depending on what money has to be spent on them, and what type of filtration systems they have. Do they have to be fully cleaned often or rarely. Im in cairns atm spending money and dont get back till the 10th, if im still intrested and can afford it then i will let you know.

I tell you what i guess people can put up recommendations and only recommendations for specific workshops that they use or know to be good. If someone suggests a place that you dont like, who cares its their choice do not say anything about it. Just make a suggestion of who you would use. i will start, please use the same format. My recommendations are: Mercury Motorsport Pty Ltd Allstar Tuning Systems Pty Ltd Rotary Motorsport Brisbane Tuning & Turbo Center Auto Tech - Gavin Woods Performance Injection Tuning Services (PITS)

I was bored so i decided to compile a comprehensive list of all the workshops that have been suggested in the forums. This is JUST A LIST, Not a place to ditch workshops. Please look here to find a workshop that is closest to you, call them up and see what they can do for you. Mercury Motorsport Pty Ltd Unit 2, 278 Newmarket Rd Wilston 4051 Ph. 1300 558 650 Ph. (07) 33523363 Allstar Tuning Systems Pty Ltd Unit 4c/ 194 Zillmere Rd Boondall 4034 Ph.(07) 3265 7185 Milanco Pro Dyno Engineering Unit 2A/ 52 Aquarium Ave Hemmant 4174 Ph.(07) 3390 8133 M. 0407 167 209 Rotary Motorsport Unit 2, 250 Leitchs Rd Brendale 4500 Ph.(07) 3205 1133 Redcliffe Dyno & Performance 8 Cameron St Clontarf 4019 Ph.(07) 3284 1925 Drift King Performance 360 Newman Rd Geebung, 4034 ph: (07) 32651238 Extreme Motor Sports (Items) 197 Toombul Rd Northgate 4013 Ph. (07) 3256 9429 Ph. (07) 3630 4377 East Coast Customs Shop 2/ 1338 Gympie Rd, Aspley 4034 Ph.(07) 3862 8009 Stafford Tune 30 Stone St Stafford 4053 Ph. (07) 3356 9705 Gun Performance & Exhaust U1/ 74 Webster Rd Stafford 4053 Ph.(07) 3856 2378 Option 1 Garage Pty Ltd 7 Remora Rd Hamilton 4007 Ph. (07) 3268 1113 Gt Auto Garage Sd5/ 150 Edmondstone St, Newmarket 4051 Ph.(07) 3356 9401 ADD Racing 37 Kate St Kedron 4031 Ph. 3359 0333 Tuff Toys Pty Ltd 18 Love St Bulimba 4171 Ph.(07) 3899 6011 Drive Car Automotive 2C/88 Lever St Albion, Brisbane PH: 38624522 Elite Automotive 4/ 166 Beatty Rd Archerfield 4108 Ph. (07) 3274 2445 Fax. (07) 3255 6529 Godzilla Motorsport Unit 1, 20 Ingleston Rd Wakerly 4154 Ph. (07) 3890 4488 Mob. 0418 783 262 Predator Motor Sport Unit 2/ 5 Breene Pl Morningside 4170 Ph. (07) 3902 7711 Charlie's Motors Mechncl Repairs 63 Wellington Rd East Brisbane 4169 Ph.(07) 3891 6990 Chapman & Chapman Automotive Excellence 96 Deshon St Woolloongabba 4102 Ph.(07) 3391 4522 Ph.(07) 3391 4021 Brisbane Tuning & Turbo Center 17 Nile St Woolloongabba 4102 Ph. (07) 3393 1588 Fax.(07) 3217 4767 Tuned Hitech Automotive Enhancements Shop 2/35 Sword St, Woolloongabba 4012 Ph.(07) 3891 6329 Fax. (07) 3891 5741 101 Motorcafe & Automechanic Unit 1/ 10 Judds Crt Slacks Creek 4127 Ph.(07) 3209 5855 Motive Performance U3/ 23 Richland Ave Coopers Plains 4108 Ph. (07) 3277 7279 Fax. (07) 3277 7675 Mob. 0403 598 527 Evolution Automotive Services 253 Padstow Rd Eight Mile Plains Ph/Fax 4113 Ph.(07) 3841 4982 F.I.S.T. Performance & Audio Unit 2/ 1460 Boundary Rd Wacol 4076 Ph. (07) 3271 3223 M. 0412 985 274 MAZ-FIX 48 Smallwood St Underwood 4119 Ph.(07) 3341 1111 Advanced Performance Centre (APC) 2928 Logan Rd Underwood 4119 Ph.(07) 3341 7223 CNJ Motorsport 102 Kingston Rd Underwood 4119 Ph. (07) 3290 3966 Bob Romano Performance Motors U 7/ 387 Lytton Rd Morningside 4170 Ph. (07) 3395 8255 Fax.(07) 3395 8266 D J Sivyer Mechanical U4/ 8 Timms Crt Woodridge 4114 Ph.(07) 3290 2967 Hardcore Racing Components Showroom Unit 3/ 74 Moss St Slacks Creek 4127 Ph.(07) 3299 4344 Workshop (07) 3299 4338 Perfourmance Motor Sports Pty Ltd 27 Allgas St Slacks Creek 4127 Ph.(07) 3808 4244 Immigrant Performance Shed 11/ 316 Brisbane Rd Labrador 4215 Mobile. 0411 778 345 Auto Tech - Gavin Woods Unit 1/ 23 Gibbs St, Labrador 4215 Ph. (07) 5529 2313 Dyson Rotary 15 Ivan St Labrador 4215 Ph. (07) 5529 3871 Fax. (07) 5529 3891 Automotive Technique Paddington Drv Carrara 4211 Ph. (07) 5578 4492 ? Ph. (07) 5537 1515 ? Desynz Motorsport Concepts Fy 1/ 2172 Gold Coast Hwy Miami 4220 Ph. (07) 5572 3389 Tony Motson's Suspension, Turbo & Automotive Service Coopers Plains 803 Beaudesert Rd 4108 Ph.(07) 3277 7766 Springwood 3405 Pacific Hwy 4127 Ph.(07) 3208 3245 Dyno-Source Pty Ltd 10 Lawrence Dr Nerang 4211 Ph. (07) 5596 7000 Millennium Motor Sports 2/27 Millennium Pl, Tingalpa 4173 Ph. (07) 3348 2755 W.A.S.P Performance 12 Industrial Av Molendinar 4214 Ph. 5597 4833 M. 0413 994 137 Performance Injection Tuning Services (PITS) 10/ 42 Export Drv Molendinar 4214 M. 0411 340 033 If i have missed any please post the name and address of the workshop in the same way that i have done, and leave out your opinion of them and others. They are in no particular order at all, just what i found first. If some of them have shut down let me know and i will remove them. Thanks Zenith.

Morgs is correct, differnt dyno's read differntly and dynolog dyno do read lower than others, but whos to say that the dynolog dyno is incorrect, could it be that the dynodynamics dyno is measuring way to high?....all i can say is continue to use the same dyno every time so you can see the difference in mods regardless of what the total Hp is in relation to others

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R32-GTR-SKYLINE-STE...1QQcmdZViewItem

Nissan...... Part Number is KEY0000185 Cost is around $70

Turn off your optional boost control kit option on the power fc as you dont have one and the light is on because of this, all Power FC's come with it turned on. If you are not using the Boost Control Kit, then it needs to be turned off.

Wow your in luck.....This guy is on the southside near maxfix and does a really good job, He polished my cam covers, spark plug cover, plenum, and intakes, I would show you some photos but dont have any on me. How quick he does it depends on how much work he has. Xtreme Polishing Services 0413 412 911 Nathan Piotrkowski Cya.

Your mate is the second inexperienced person (from nudgee i presume) that i know of to write off a blue S15 200sx in the wet. Thats gotta tell you something about that type of car and inexperienced drivers.

congrats, i know mark34gtr, did like a 9.6 or so before breaking something, anyone see any times for GTR79, SLO32, ADP51, RH9, DRAGME, NZM034, DINZLR, WILLO, 2RISMO, HKS GTR, NOT20, 104HAT ?