SLIPPERY

its cause youre so close to girrawheen

zoom or someone similar did a test with black versus polished a few years back and the black cooler (was a GTR cooler) produced cooler inlet charges by a little This was because the black paint radiated heat better than a silver/chrome surface, which is what you want. Sunlight isnt gonna cause too much heat soak

haha this threads a joke right? Sand on the road creates a loose surface...a loose surface is prone to movement. The sand is moving from underneath your tyres, thus your tyres not in direct contact with the road and therefore spinning loosely on top of the road. Notice the same thing on a wet road? The water acts like a lubricant.... My wheels spin more easily when the rear of the car is jacked up...is that normal? lol

is Jeff Farmer an import enthusiast?

Its your old boost controller solenoid...thats why he d/c it

what approx prices are we looking at? Is it comparable in price to buying a new twin plate?

...but im sure people are able to change their oil without a dipstick in place. Perhaps the oil was dropped without checking after a determined amount of time. By seeing how much oil came out during the change they wouldve been able to decipher whether the thing was using oil or not. Not a smart way of doing things but a solution none the less. I understand there was a lack of dipstick so it was shut off. Now what you have to do is put a dipstick in it and ask why your mechanic didnt put one in. Hes the one to ask, not us.

but plastic is tinny, rattles and vibrates a lot more than thick wood would i reckon he said that cause it would have been more work to make up new ones hah!

Name: Trav Nicks: Bob Created: Aussie day '83 Location: Woodvale Work: Joondalup Health Campus, Medical Imaging. I drive a: R32 GTR Cruise/event attendance rate: poor Music taste: Open minded Hobbies: Cars, Fitness/Body Building, Ball sports, Obscure cartoons Might be of use contacting me: When youre on life support

take the plastic mounts out and use as a template for some 16mm MDF ive got the good pioneer splits in there with the factory grill over the top so that it still looks factory

leave the plenum on just remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail in you also have to remove the breather hose that gets in the way and all associated vacuum and fuel hoses (obviously)

nah thats not the AAC valve hose. The pic is of the air regulator. The AAC valve is located underneath the plenum and its hose goes into the plenum. The air regulator sits anterior to the AAC valve and doesnt have the cylinder-shaped solenoid hanging off the end

is that the hose for air control on cold start/idle that runs to the plenum? If it was blocked id say it was because you had management that had a good cold start tune that didnt want to rely on the OEM ecu cold idle Thats my 'guess'. Im probably totally wrong

resistance is a great game. Great battles with clever computer intelligence. On the high def plasma it looks awesome and has been the best ive played on ps3 so far. You also have to use your noggin a bit and cant just go in and blast everything to pieces haha

Its called Rich and Retard for a reason The ecu pulls so much timing out to prevent detonation, not increase it lol

I presume it was the stocker silver one youre referring to, not the built one he also had (gunmetal)

im even with the other guys...buy one with a good built motor. I looked for a while in WA when i was buying but couldnt find anything. But hey, if you want to build one yourself and be sure of the condition then theres a guideline there

the turbo doesnt spin the other way and yes the flutter is normal. Obviously its just air hitting the closed throttle creating the phenomenon of reversion lol Yes, the air is going back into the turbo but the pressure from a stock turbo isnt going to cause too much trouble for a metal blade spinning at 100 000rpm

sounds like AFMs They need more than a clean. Open them up and you might find that the soldered joints have become unattached and will lose contact when you go over bumps in the road. This is why they work sometimes and other times, they run like crap. Have a look in the tutorial section on how to do this if youre not sure

400rwhp is a figure a lot of original engines are still able to push out fairly reliably The turbo choice for a non built motor would be GT-SS's, garrett 2860-7s or -5s, & 2530s. A stock motor wont be able to completely push the -5s or 2530s though but would serve well in the mean time if you needed to rebuild the engine later An oil cooler is a good idea for a rb that sees trackwork.

Ill do prices aswell.. turbos GT-SS $2800 injectors (sard) $580 cam gears (arospeed) $180 fuel pump (nismo) $550 afms (nismo) $400 dumps (tomei) $600 Power FC $950 02 sensors (nissan) $420 metal cat smile.gif $250 Coils (splitfires) $470 Labour for turbos and tune: $2600 Total.... $9800

do everything at once to save some time and money on re-tunes. I bought a stockish car and went down a similar path to you. First off i fixed any mechanical issues with the car like brakes, belts, fluids, 100k service. Make sure the engine is healthy to save you pulling it apart during the build up. Then i collected... turbos GT-SS injectors (sard) cam gears (arospeed) fuel pump (nismo) afms (nismo) dumps (tomei) Power FC 02 sensors (nissan) metal cat Coil packs (splitfires) ....and fitted everything apart from the turbos/dumps and cam gears myself to again save money. I paid a little extra and went for some nismo components for ease of install. im still hoping to run a mid-high 11 with a bit over 400rwhp. The car already came with a twin plate, exhaust, bilstein shocks, eibach springs, ARC cooler and Greddy hard pipe kit. I know its an old engine but it makes power early which enables me to keep revs below 7500rpm, hopefully prolonging its life a little longer. I only boost once oil is over 70 degrees celcius also. Welcome aboard Rory!

ANK: nah, not all of the cooler kit Just the intake pipes

are you in a mood to sell off the intake pipes from the pods? and the centre dash trim? if you are, ill take them.

maybe it was running out of fuel and the tuner backed it off a little earlier in the rev range, or took a lot of timing out cause it was detonating. There are too many factors The questions is.....how does it feel to drive now, compared to before? If it feels just as good or better then theres no problem