SLIPPERY

show us some of the interior with a decent camera

yeah sounds like its burning oil that would account for the decrease in oil and the smoke depending on the colour it may not be too bad. The motor may be 'breathing' a little more running more boost on an old engine, therefore you have a bit of oil going through the intake and getting burnt which could create a whitish cloud of smoke or, the rings may be shot which gives the smoke a bluish tinge. Have a look at your intake piping to see if theyre coated in oil. If so, a catch can would be a good investment. If not, get a compression test done firstly, without oil in the cylinder bore and secondly, with a little oil squirted into the cylinder. If compression increases with the oil, then you know that the rings arent the best But first, tell us what colour smoke you see

$590 delivered atm from Nengun. The 700s seem to be the logical choice at the moment.

the problem would be that the idle value on the power fc is set too low for your idle The car wants to, for example, idle at 1200 but the power fc idle is set to 1000rpm. Therefore it tries to pull the idle down to that value but cant keep it there possibly due to a manifold leak which lets in air and increases the idle. A way to get around this is to add more fuel to the idle cell on the power fc or to increase the idle rpm on the power fc so that it'll idle a little higher but steadily.

cmon champ have a look at least half the way down this page. Weve been covering the subject of changing dumps for 350rwkw for the last couple of weeks and theres a thread there with 3 pages

i was told to head over to Sunway in KL. I asked a similar question to you because i went there early this year Have a look here.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=malaysia

whoa and i thought we were paying a hefty fuel price $140 to fill up...ouch!

bwaahahaha

but is the outlet 70mm on the r34 oem dumps?

thats been around for years

The Turbo kit was $2550 to buy and all up, $2830 delivered to my door with Nengun repacking the box to hide large HKS stamping on the boxes. Cheapish at the moment

haha you bastard I only saw the top line and i was shitting Thanks again for the Tomei dumps btw....they looks magnificent bolted up to each turbo

Have a look here. Scroll down a little for some full pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=163509

Hi there My beautiful GT-SS kit arrived today but the turbos themselves dont have the usual HKS stamping on the housings that you see on 2530 etc. Is that normal? I just want to make sure ive got the right part number. I got p/n G17200-N48010-00 Turbocharger Full Assembly Has anyone else with the above kit got this part number? Thanks

Not having a crack.....but i think youve missed the point Ronin was making entirely.

you forgot the price

id do anything to gain another 20 or so kws, especially when youve already got them there

Dont these Jap modified stock ecus just chuck in more fuel and a bit more timing? Thus making your problems worse? It also wouldnt hurt to change your plugs as they may be misfiring a little and perhaps causing unburnt fuel, popping and the black soot on the back of the car

hell yeah, id be changing them! especially with some 2530s creating a fair bit of exhaust flow. Im with Ali

why did you get rid of the 35/40? it wouldve made it to 300rwkw easy

cmon guys, grow up

your 'cuzn's' a twit. The sensor is only there to tell you if the cat temperature is getting too hot Theres been a couple of threads in the last fortnight in this section in regards to the cold start dilemma you also share. At present no one has a definitive answer. Have a look at the coolant temp. sensor and you should be on the right track because the value may be stuck to hot, thus making your cold start mixtures lean which causes the hopping around and reluctance to rev. The backfiring between gear changes would be excess fuel combusting in the HOT exhaust. The stock ecu likes to run very rich for safety and unfortunately this makes for rubbish top end and fuel economy.

Did what solve the problem? The mechanic diagnosed the problem. In his case, the shims most likely need adjusting which he was going to live with Your scenario would be different since you run hydraulic lifters. The noise may be fixed/lessened with different oil, 'lifter free' solution, the lifters re-bled or worst case, replaced.

any update? lol see the post above yours. It seems like it was diagnosed, end of story

Yeah its weird Cause i would have thought the power FC would use almost identical cold start maps as the OEM ecu nad would use the coolant sensor. It runs brilliant cold on the FC. Maybe its not the sensor itself, but a little further back at the input into the ecu or something?