SLIPPERY

yes AFMs can be cleaned out Take the AFM out and run a 50.50 mix of kero and metho through it a few times back and forth and youll notice all the oil come out the other end

grant at per4manz did my brothers cooler piping in Al I dont know if hes still around...you dont tend to hear as much about his work anymore

No, the GT2860r-7 is similar to a GT-SS and are rated at 300-320 hp each The stock GTR turbo is smaller You might be able to push yours to 250rwkw The GT2860r-7 should be able to go to 300-320rwkw

The AFMs wont be the culprit because the cold issues disappear instantly every time once the temperature reaches a certain level. (like flicking the light switch on) Ive got the same thing when i run my standard computer. When i run a non-tuned PFC, then the problem isnt there. I reckon rb30-POWER is onto the problem...it has to be temperature related

N1s are too small for your 600hp goal so forget about them

have a look back through from the start. Look at every post. You may not have originally understood what was written.

any updates on price of coolant sensor? or with hyperdrives verdict?

i reckon its normal You see it on plenty of turbos

N1 is slightly more laggy than stock obviously because it is slightly larger and can support more horsepower No, you do not need to change head gasket for N1 turbo A couple of kilos difference between the exhaust...what does it matter? who cares. Questions are answered...yay End of thread

the prices on nengun are australian. I dont see why this thread is still going? Weve answered all the questions ten times

Hell yeah, try around 60rwkw with a tuned FC and retaining injectors and AFMs Injectors are near maxed at 240rwkw cause of the stupidly rich stock ecu

At least do a search through yesterdays posts..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=165763

surely you can find an online currency converter and use that to convert to your currency

are u sure its the 2560? Sounds like youve got the 2860R-7s

have you got a cheque book?

power FC are around $900 delivered from a couple of traders on this site have a look in the trader section

use a nissan head gasket and save money have a look at www.turbobygarrett.com for the 2860-5 .....similar to whats on the mines GTR

i think something similar as to what im about to say was said earlier by 'Beer Baron' Tomei list their higher end Poncam (type B) with the same duration for both the inlet (260) and exhaust (260) cams Whereas, their base level Poncam (type A) with different duration for the inlet (260) and exhaust (256) which supposedly gives more mid range punch, thus providing more response. The better one is what YOU want. I think since youre chasing that magical 650 rwhp mark, then youll need to rev and make peak power. HKS list there stage 2 cams as 272 degrees duration for both the inlet and exhaust with some 10.2mm of lift. I think you need to focus less on the differences in duration and more on whether you want 'stage 1' or 'stage 2' cams and then pick one. thanks

sorry just wanted to point out, as to not mislead people, that the seat covers from the group buy were leatherette... an imitation to leather

im still working on that pic to put up of my muffler kermit

i think they all went to bed with a headache

$3000 on dumps and front pipes!!! shit!!!! buy your own turbos, pipes and power FC and youll save tonnes. The prices mentioned above by other members is pretty much spot on. Thats the beauty of the net. $4k wont get you new turbos, power FC, dumps, tune and labour More like closer to 6. perhaps extend the budget a little and do it right, do it once!

most places do a turbo swap with the motor in i thought, so the cost still outweighs the benefit without rebuilding

if youre going 2530s then they are in fact a fair bit more than the GT-SS kit

Isnt there a name given to those people that talk so much crap, that in the end they actually believe what theyre saying? The term has escaped me at this moment