SLIPPERY

No, see other thread. Coil pack issues dont affect driveability this much CLOSE this thread mods

Yeah i was also going to say that one of the pipes has come loose. If failing that, i had a similar problem that was finally diagnosed as being a dodgy AFM connected. Changing AFMs wouldnt fix it obviously so i bought a brand new plug and rewired the AFM plug. No more intermittent problems in my case.

well there seems to be 2 different numbers floating around

yep the copper one will do the trick gapped down a little I go 1 heat range colder aswell.

ok, never mind then

hey stan/chris ill take the cam covers if it includes both sides and coil pack cover Could you PM me bank details if this is correct thanks PS ill probably sms you

Hicas can kick in on average speeds and kick the rear end out which is bloody annoying and scary at the same time. Have a look under the search banner for 'hicas lock bar' and that should solve your problems. Also, our attessa system in the 32 is a little slower to react to wheel speed etc and only calculates 10times/sec compared with 100/sec on later models. Thus, the car will experience a little more power oversteer than other GTRs

i think that is different from what i had on mine Here's a thread i made on mine... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hk...ss-t168188.html

hows the driveability of this clutch compared to the ease of the coppermix twin?

boost controller is sold AFM still available

Are you sure you dont want to post? Id take it straight away if you were willing to send

how much did you get the weds for?

obviously if it sounds like a WRX then one or more of the cylinders arent firing. Possible causes...dead sprak plug from pinging, old age, over fuelling etc, coil pack dead....swap for another one, or closed injector (probably not) Dont ever waste your time at these nuffy chain mechanics. If you cant do the job yourself then im sure some good friend off the forums can come around and have a look for you. THen if it stumps the more seasoned backyard mechanics then take it to the reputable big guys who wont spin some crap. FYI, yes there is a cam sensor. It sits on the end of your exhaust cam and looks like a cup face down. If thats the problem then the car might start to compressor surge, will drive ok, then suddenly have flat spots or just generally be impossible to drive. I wouldnt think that would be the problem in a 34. If it is then theyre available a lot cheaper than that second hand, all though that price he gave you is pretty much spot on from Nissan.

will wait and see to whether you get it or not before i buy 20 lol

untuned PowerFCs fix the problem too. Much better cold running than stock ecu out of the box! Terrific stuff

nah that sounds good to me

bump

Hi guys i have a Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller for sale for $120 Its in excellent condition and was holding 350rwhp and 16psi before it was upgraded for a dual solenoid To fit any turbo car and will provide excellent boost control. Was/is in perfect working order when removed. Also, 1x GTR AFM which has been fully reconditioned by an Auto Elec. (have receipt) $99 Great working condition, was removed for upgrade to Nismo AFMs Located in Perth but happy to post for $15 for boost controller and $5 for AFM You can PM or reply here if youre interested Thanks, Trav

they only need to be the same diameter for attessa

Tekin's back

Glad to hear youre still happy with it Just jap sell the kakimoto range at a fair price Stainless exhausts are so cheap at the moment. I think Uras are selling stainless systems for around $500 (maybe a lil more) We can get them made custom over here in WA for a little over $500 aswell to suit your car. Have a good look around online....so much competition has brought the price right down. Im looking for a titanium atm, and they seem to be what stainless prices were a few years ago....crazy!

Compliance cats are well known killers of power. Its easy enough to drop the exhaust before the cat and run it on the dyno again...or go for a drive and see if the car feels less 'choked' Start with the obvious things like the exhaust before doing the smaller things. Limp mode is exactly that, LIMP mode...as in your car wont rev, wont make nowhere near 150rwkw and will be barely movable. Designed to get the car home from wherever you are, not cost you 20kw

i got one NOR if thats where u are

well with my gtr the interior light doesnt go off until the car is locked or the car is started Maybe thats just the alarm I have or a feature of the GTR?

standard ones are intank and are good for around 300rwkw Buy a nismo replacement and it will fit exactly like the old one. Theres a tutorial in the totorial section that shows you how to do this Quite easy really!