SLIPPERY

a GTR isnt that bad on the highway with good o2 sensors Ive done a few trips to the southwest of WA with some 'spirited' over taking and still managed a dead even 10km/litre

you were a brave man putting in a second rb26 with ceramic wheeled turbos Why didnt you change them when the motor was out?

I got quoted 8 hours labour to remove the subframe to place onto the press to remove the bushes. I felt like laughing when thinking of the tutorial that does it in 2 hours (not sure if they removed the subframe completely) Did you get a similar quote? However, if i could bring the subframe in myself, then it would only be 1 hour, obviously, since they only have to press the bushes out

its hard to say whether youll be charged import tax too I and many others didnt, but there are people that do get charged. Have a chat to Nengun about it, if you need to know more then PM me

is this one of the SK rb30s?

they have oil restrictors in them

id say with your wages, the best thing to do is to wait. Youll get depressed if youre spending every cent on the car, then youll have no life and no car to drive when it is broken. Wonder why you see so many shitters with popped motors up for sale all the time? Ive just spent 2k on servicing and a tune just to keep the car running like new....i can afford to....can you? Buy one when youre on some decent money, when you have some disposable income for the 'fun' things in life.

yeah but he wants 350 and above the 34N1s wont even go there

350 is going to be a stretch for N1s Think of ballpark figure closer to 300-320

show us a pick of the new shoes Tom!

They could go as soon as you hit full boost. 1.2 bar is definitely not recommended Other people have had them going for years like that....who knows?

you block up the entry to the BOV so it acts as though there are no BOVs in the system. So where the bov joins the pipe. NOT the outlet

i reckon your thinking is very reasonable. Im in (or was) a similar train of thought. I ended up going with the GT-SS on an unopened motor but was tossing up between the -5s and 2530s. I went with my choice because i wanted to enjoy the car the way it was/is until it needed a rebuild and which also packs a big mid range punch with almost instant response. Once i need a rebuild and want to get more serious, then it would be an easier task of buying the bigger turbos and using them to their full potential. The time i sell the GT-SS for around 2k, then im only a little more out of pocket to upgrade. Remembering the turbos will already be off for the engine build...so, saving money on turbo swap labour. (or my own time). Its no big sweat if you decide to go either way if you look at it like that. both are win-win

still tricky tho....a little spot for big hands

"I am missing the recirculation tube circled red. The part with the green arrow is open and can be see in the pic which is taken from the front of the car. The part with the blue arrow is blocked. Is this causing the high idle, what else could it be causing, why has it been done? Will be taking the BOV's off tomorrow to check for problems, the main question is, is it causing the high idle smile.gif Sorry, lots of questions I know " Having that tube doesnt affect anything. All it does is plug into the resonator, which goes to the airbox. Therefore, the air is unmetred, just before it gets metred again as it goes through the airbox.....if that makes sense. I have my 90 join to the resonator taken off and other people on the site such as ronin09 have the whole assembly removed. Just means the BOV is venting to atmo rather than venting to a pipe (less audible)...but im sure you knew that already

that bottom one is part of the BOV recirculation system isnt it? If so, it doesnt matter that thats open

also handy to use for finding boost leaks and problems that are only present when the engine is under a fair amount of load....not just performance testing

excuse my noobness with these cars, but what entails 'track prepared'?

its just easier to replace the twins because you can keep your exhaust manifolds and inlet piping the same. Plus, you dont have to buy an external wastegate. Replacing things like this isnt cheap Also, the response and top end of the twin bolt ons can both be phenomenal with spool up superior to a big single due to less rotating mass/inertia Personally, i like the idea of having a non-defectable, factory looking, 11 second street car. Not many other cars can claim to be that

high flowing those ones will leave you around the 400rwhp mark. The best bet would be to use some garrett GT2860r-5 or HKS 2530s which would allow you to make 500 and above. Since the 1J is a bit more of a torquey motor, then id guess they wouldnt take as long to come on song compared to an rb26. These turbos can be made to be quite responsive quite easily anyway

no, thats not normal

what premiums does the MR have over the garden variety?

to get an air leak fixed youre looking at $600-$1000 depending on whether the workshop wants to take out the master cylinder to get to the plenum. It adds up once they have to bleed the brakes again etc

Also sounds like the AAC is not stepping the idle down accordingly once you come off the gas. The 'motor' normally pulls the idle back down on idle but if your AAC is blocked or the spring is broken etc then this cant occur and the idle will hover a little higher for a period of time (or forever) Have you taken off the AAC? there are 4 bolts that hold it on. Its possible to get in there near the oil filter and take it off in 30mins. Take it apart and give it a clean with some carby cleaner or a 50:50 mix of metho and kero. cheers

Smoking's bad for your health