damono

OK, heres the story. Was on the way to work, running out of petrol, pulled into caltex, and they were out of vortex and they had no premium pumps. So i put in $10 worth of regular unleaded (i know i know) Now since then, my petrol guage went up, then went down, down, down, WELL BELOW empty (where its never been before). I suspected it may be dodgy fuel just sending my fuel level guage haywire so i stopped into BP and put $30 worth of ultimate98 in, and it went up for a short time, then when i started driving it went right back down under E. Anything like this happened to anyone else? It seems to head up towards the normal level when idles, but when i go anywhere, it goes right below empty. Car drives fine, no problems, just the fuel guage is stuffed. Possibly the fuel level thingy in the tank could be stuffed? Please help Cheers

i got a big ass wing you can have for a carton of beer (or $35 if you prefer). Black, Extremely huge

dunno about the accuracy (difference between figures) tho because its not a 'dyno dynamics' dyno

Vct?

Not too fussed anyway.. i hear they never stuff up really, but chances are if one is going to .. it'll be the one i get

yeh ive kinda convinced myself i have to go for the PFC now, just gotta find the $$

Yeh .. the group buy needs like 30 people tho. HASHIRIYA on these forums is selling power fc + commander for $1020 delivered to door, then put on however much to tune it. Yeh ive read that its a DIY job for sure. Uneekwahn - $1600 was a rough supplied fitted and tuned price (with 1yr aust warranty) Just wondering if its worth it buying myself, fitting it, then just driving it somewhere to tune, ive been told powerfc std settings is 'safe' but dont floor it until a tune. Anyone know how much it is just to do a first tune of a powerfc? Keep in mind i won the raffle @ hyperdrive on the weekend so i got a power run and dyno tune to value of $150

Cheers for the advice guys. bnr#@ - Had the bumper off to re-fibreglass and paint, its back on now, driving around with a big fmic in front wouldnt be too smart ossie_21 - Im running about 0.8ish of a bar. The car drives smoother when running lower boost tho, not so up and down. When running about .8, it takes off good, then tapers off then takes off again a bit. Feels very slow I think I may need to just bite the bullet and buy the power FC, its just $1600ish I can't really afford to spend at this time, but yeh chances are down the track I 'may' change the turbo, so power fc will seem like a better option

Yeh thats what im thinking. Funds are saying safc II, but power fc would be the go if i get a bigger turbo down the track. I dont know if i'll even do anything tho cos im supposed to be buying a unit soon.

OK guys just need some un-biased opinions. I've come to the conclusion that I need some type of fuel management aids. By looking at the dyno sheet, you can see some real bad dips (40hp near the end). I've been told that its the ecu and its retarding when running higher boost. (correct me if im wrong, this is just what ive been told by a few people as a 'possible cause') I want to know basically if I should bite the bullet and just go for a power FC, or do the cheaper Super AFC II option. Also.. I can get the Power FC off these forums for about $980 delivered, but how much is this going to cost to get fitted and tuned? The SAFC II is about $400 delivered, but is this cheaper to install and tune as well? BTW mods are seperated dump pipe to 3" s/s exh, hks pod, man boost control, Hybrid FMIC.

dang. Whats the price difference to tune a power fc compared to tuning a safc II?

PM Sent.. i would like a price and eta for a R33 gtst s1

Hey buddy. My r33 is doing the exact same thing. Ive been told that if I get a power FC it will fix things as well, but for about $1600 fitted with tuning.. its a bit more than i wanted to spend. I've been told SAFC II should do a similar job too ($400+Tune), im currently looking at getting one. I heard PFC is better to get if you want to change turbos later on. BTW these are my specs: 3" seperated dump/front pipe 3" highflow cat and stainless xforce exh HKS Pod filter turbosmart manual boost control (running about 12ish psi) hybrid FMIC so.. similar to yours really mods wise. Ive attached dyno sheet.. which is around the same 226RWHP is around 165kw@ wheels i think (correct me if im wrong)

yeh ken's car is very bloody nice. Looks like a very well cared for car, the paintwork is immaculate, looks like it just came straight from the factory

My car clicks too from the climate control vents. CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. My mates n/a R33 had the same thing too. It comes and goes, gets a bit annoying. Any ideas?

whoo hoo.. I should be at the dyno day on sat so i should be able to pick up lanyard and shirt there? Cheers

No rush... i see your selling your car... how bout we just do a straight swap

Sorry to ask yet again.. but any chance I can come and pick up my lanyard and shirt soon, if not.. can i send some money to you for postage and chuck it in the post? Cheers

I did the exact same thing about 2 years ago.. a few months after buying the car. I've had it gaffa taped up until about 2 months ago when i took it off and fibreglassed it myself. Very easy and cheap ($20 for fibreglass repair kit from supercheap auto) All i have to do is putty over it with body filler and sand, prime then take it somewhere to spray some black over the top. I was quoted abour $100-$125 for a few coats of black from local spray shop if i do the sanding/priming.. probably a cashie

id be keen in getting a r33 gtst one if the price/quality is right

Is it just me, or do i sense some photoshopping on that picture? Correct me if im wrong

ive really got nothing to compare it to. The current dead clutch ive had in the car since i bought it (2 half years) and found that to be very driver friendly, but never had any problems with it biting when needed. It may have only been std.. i dunno, we'll find out next thursday

Im booked into getting a "9 Puck cushion button extra heavy duty clutch" ... or whatever the hell that is. I was told that would be good, for $850 installed. Plus possibly $50 for machining of the flywheel if needed at hyperdrive. Autoclutch had similar types of prices, but im happy with the workmanship at hyperdrive

it wouldnt be leaking cos the reservoir was full (overfull actually) That was my first thought, but if it were leaking, my guess is that it would be bone dry. Also ive tried taking some fluid out but clutch is the same. Im booked into getting a "9 Puck cushion button extra heavy duty clutch" ... or whatever the hell that is. I was told that would be good, for $850 installed. Plus possibly $50 for machining of the flywheel if needed

Yeh... i just got some clutch fluid today... but found out my reservoir was actually OVER filled, took some out but still the same. I think i need to go for a new clutch too