damono

EDIT: Sorry guys pics didn't work at first as I had no way to check.. but they're all up now Hey guys. This isn't a definate guide, but I just couldn't wait to put them in. Also, im not sure if everything is 100% correct (actually I doubt it), but I put them in and they work... Also, this is for the H1 kit installed on a R33 GTST S1 Skyline, yours may not be exactly the same, but I guess the theory would be the same. This is from the Bankids group buy. First take out the old globe assembly. The dust cover just screws off and the old globe is clipped into place. You have to make a small cut in the dust cover to push the wires and grommet out of the dust cap backwards so that it can be 'modified'. 'The Modifier' is my tool of choice, makes easy work of the plastic. Basically we want to make room for the HID assembly and grommet attached. I used a 25mm hole saw drill bit thingy, but cut it however you want. Basically the hole must be about 25mm or 1inch if your american. Be carefully with these and be sure to always wear appropriate safety equipment as shown in the picture. Once you cut the whole for the 25mm grommet, drill another hole with a 8mm or similar drill bit. It should look something similar to this after (but hopefully neater). This is for putting the original wires into the sealed chamber where it was before. Once these are pushed through and you can confirm that its pretty well air tight, crimp the old connectors to the new HID connectors, they were a bit of a different size on mine, but just make do. I found that if your working on the wiring, the best bet is to put the HID globe back into its cannister so that it doesnt get knocked around also apparently you cant touch the glass of the new globe as it will create hotspots and decrease the life. Once this is crimped, best to put a bit of electrical tape around these connections so that + doesnt touch -. If anyone has any better suggestions, do tell, but i'd say this would be the best bet. Next put the new HID globe where the old one sat previously. Screw the dust cover back on and that light is done. Basically the other light is the same. I found that the drivers side is a bit harder to get to because of the washer bottle, but the air filter side (if you have a pod) is piece of piss to get to. Once these lights are mounted, the next thing id suggest is to mount the ballasts and relay/fuse wiring. I put the relay/fuse wiring just to the drivers side of the radiator as there was a pre drilled hole so I just cable tied it to it, also it gave me enough length in the cable to stretch across to the passenger side lights. The relays/fuse basically have 2 wires that connect to +12v and 2 wires that goto Ground (-). I ran my positive cables to the fuse box where i saw a + terminal screw, which I just screwed to the top of. The negative cables I just used the screw that was holding my strut brace on because it is earthed to the body. I ran the relay/fuse cabling across the underside channel in front of the radiator and cable tied using existing pre drilled holes. Make sure that you mount the balasts to the plate provided, im guessing this is because the balasts cannot be earthed, and a plastic set of grommets seperate them. I used the screws/bolts that came with the back to mount together. Then the backing/mounting plate can be mounted to your car. I mounted the ballasts near the strut towers on either side, but i guess you can mount them anywhere you like as long as it doesn't interfere with anything, is pretty safe from the elements and you have enough cable to get to the lights. The drivers side again mounted to the strut brace bolt, and the passenger side to the air filter bracket (if you have a pod that is) This is a pic showing you the difference between the light, disregard my headlights, they're faded to hell, I have to polish them tonight I hope this helped some of you anyway. It's a work in progress... Let me know if I missed something or you need some clarifcation. Plus.. i headed out last night and tested them, they are bloody bright, very white light. I would definately recommend a H1 6000k set of HID's

Hey guys. This isn't a definate guide, but I just couldn't wait to put them in. Also, im not sure if everything is 100% correct (actually I doubt it), but I put them in and they work... Also, this is for the H1 kit installed on a R33 GTST S1 Skyline, yours may not be exactly the same, but I guess the theory would be the same. This is from the Bankids group buy. First take out the old globe assembly. The dust cover just screws off and the old globe is clipped into place. You have to make a small cut in the dust cover to push the wires and grommet out of the dust cap backwards so that it can be 'modified'. 'The Modifier' is my tool of choice, makes easy work of the plastic. Basically we want to make room for the HID assembly and grommet attached. I used a 25mm hole saw drill bit thingy, but cut it however you want. Basically the hole must be about 25mm or 1inch if your american. Be carefully with these and be sure to always wear appropriate safety equipment as shown in the picture. Once you cut the whole for the 25mm grommet, drill another hole with a 8mm or similar drill bit. It should look something similar to this after (but hopefully neater). This is for putting the original wires into the sealed chamber where it was before. Once these are pushed through and you can confirm that its pretty well air tight, crimp the old connectors to the new HID connectors, they were a bit of a different size on mine, but just make do. I found that if your working on the wiring, the best bet is to put the HID globe back into its cannister so that it doesnt get knocked around also apparently you cant touch the glass of the new globe as it will create hotspots and decrease the life. Once this is crimped, best to put a bit of electrical tape around these connections so that + doesnt touch -. If anyone has any better suggestions, do tell, but i'd say this would be the best bet. Next put the new HID globe where the old one sat previously. Screw the dust cover back on and that light is done. To ensure a watertight seal, i'd suggest a bit of sikaflex around it. You can pickup a caulking gun's worth of sikaflex automotive for about $15 from bunnings which is bloody handy for fixing leaks in bodykits, lights etc.. and a tube will last you forever Basically the other light is the same. I found that the drivers side is a bit harder to get to because of the washer bottle, but the air filter side (if you have a pod) is piece of piss to get to. Once these lights are mounted, the next thing id suggest is to mount the ballasts and relay/fuse wiring. I put the relay/fuse wiring just to the drivers side of the radiator as there was a pre drilled hole so I just cable tied it to it, also it gave me enough length in the cable to stretch across to the passenger side lights. The relays/fuse basically have 2 wires that connect to +12v and 2 wires that goto Ground (-). I ran my positive cables to the fuse box where i saw a + terminal screw, which I just screwed to the top of. The negative cables I just used the screw that was holding my strut brace on because it is earthed to the body. I ran the relay/fuse cabling across the underside channel in front of the radiator and cable tied using existing pre drilled holes. Make sure that you mount the balasts to the plate provided, im guessing this is because the balasts cannot be earthed, and a plastic set of grommets seperate them. I used the screws/bolts that came with the back to mount together. Then the backing/mounting plate can be mounted to your car. I mounted the ballasts near the strut towers on either side, but i guess you can mount them anywhere you like as long as it doesn't interfere with anything, is pretty safe from the elements and you have enough cable to get to the lights. The drivers side again mounted to the strut brace bolt, and the passenger side to the air filter bracket (if you have a pod that is) This is a pic showing you the difference between the light, disregard my headlights, they're faded to hell, I have to polish them tonight I hope this helped some of you anyway. It's a work in progress... Let me know if I missed something or you need some clarifcation.

What cost am I looking at for a valuation? I just find it wierd that they didnt ask for a valuation when i first insured the car 3 years ago, and now they're asking me for it. Seems convienient considering the cops are still cracking down on imports too

It says, "once this valuation is received, we will issue an invitation to renew the policy from 10/12/2005 etc.." So im guessing that I have to get it done by then or my car will be uninsured. 12/Dec is when my policy is due for renewal. Fiddy, if yours is due soon, maybe we can go in together somewhere and get a deal...

Dude, i got the exact same letter from HBF last week. I was just about to post on here. This sucks. Ive never made a claim with them, never lost my licence etc.., I have 55% no claim bonus (maximum), pay $1300 or so a year for the past 3 years on this car and this is how they treat me. Bullsh it if you ask me. I've never had to get a valuation before and I didnt read of anything in the fine print when I signed up that I needed to get a valuation. Not happy. Any1 have any ideas?

basically they just look different, but do the same job minus the knock sensors

hey Pulp. I got mine private off these forums.. You see them from time to time for about that price. Keep your eye out. I'll let you know if i see one for around the same $$ EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=93841&hl=safc A guy advertised this 2 days ago for $270ono .. i reckon you can get it for $250 + postage should be $12. Its the old model, just looks different and has no wheel only buttons, does the same job minus the knock sensors, which i guess arent really needed anyway cos i heard the ones on the safc2 arent that great anyway. $260ish + $150ish for dyno tune at hyperdrive (or whatever they charge), best upgrade you'll get for $400ish

sweet...

Yeh.. i dont know if i can be bothered installing it today.. i had the day off work too it would of been a perfect time, but i think ill leave it till the weekend. Maybe someone can install it and take a few pics and write a few tips/tutorial considering heaps of people bought these kits, would help the team

So .. you have to cut the original headlight rear cover (the screw off part) with a 25mm hole saw? And where did you mount your balasts?

I do have one.. its uneekwahn that is installing his. PS.. my FMIC is being held in place by cable ties

Mods are HKS air filter, 3" seperated dump/front pipe, 3" xforce s/s exhaust, turbosmart boost guage, hybrid 600x300x76 fmic. I think for the SAU dyno run of 226.7 i was running 0.6 or 0.7bar, now its on about 0.7 or 0.8ish, dont really know, and other than that the only thing that is different is the SAFC2 + tune of it. Might of been able to squeeze a bit more out of it cos its overdue for a service and plugs change, but ran out of time/money to do it last weekend, but very happy with results regardless. I think thats it. Best few hundred bucks i spent. Satanic: the only difference other than the safc2 was the boost level i upped a bit, other than that.. the same. And yes.. its manual R33 S1. Im pretty sure the D1 edition is exactly the same, but its gold on the outside and black screen. Pretty sure its the exact same unit.. just a bit ricier

It would be interesting to see what its got under the bonnet and if it has anything to back up all that rice fibreglass.

Just got back from hyperdrive. I fitted the safc2 myself and took it there to get tuned and made a huge bloody difference. I went from 226.7rwhp with a big ass power dip, to 256.7rwhp with just a bit more boost, safc2 installed and tuned and no real power dip. AF ratios seems pretty consistant too. It's not a huge figure, but feels like a new car to drive and a heap more power in first that you can feel. If anyones thinking about going for a safc2, go for it.. i picked mine up, D1 ltd edition for $310 delivered (5 months old) and dyno tune is about $150, (although i got mine for free thanks to the raffle door prize at the SAU dyno day ) . Its a good step up before i go for a power fc and a bigger turbo etc.. PS.. the pink line is the dyno read out when i went on the SAU dyno day, the red is before dyno tune and black is with SAFC2 tune

Just got them this morning. Very happy with the product.. now to install. Does anyone have any tips on installing them? im thinking of trying it today...

I should be able to pick them up myself. Is tomorrow or thursday the last day I can pick them up?

Cool.. are you leaving thursday.. or is thursday the last day i can pick them up. Just asking because I dont get up to perth all that often Cheers damo

I know what your problem is..... you dont have to take off hard if you want to race a XR6 turbo

Any pics with them on the car dude?

Dudes.. Im looking for a R33 gtst S1 Top secret / Do Luck front bar. Like pic below Any ideas what im looking at including delivery to perth. I cant seem to find one (or anything that isnt the standard gtr/400r/trust/vielside copies) If I can't get one of these... anyone know of any good front bars that is not the same as the rest? Cheers damo

so soon? .. Eeeek.. i had budgeted to get them and pay remaining next pay Ah well.. ill work something out

Hey Chris.. I sent a PM, but im interested in the coilovers too, depending on postage to WA (6169) Cheers damo

I need somewhere to buy a front bar but no one seems to want to take my money ...

PM Sent a few times. I've got the cash for it.. just need exact shipping cost and bank details... Hey dude, PM Sent a few times. PM didnt work this time. I've got the cash for it.. just need exact shipping cost and bank details... I needed it modded for a S1, sprayed black and shipped to WA (postcode 6169). Can get exact paint code if you needed it, i sent it in the last PM i think Cheers damo

im looking at geting a kit from over east too. basically just a front bar