Arkhaeon

Don't forget about me mate! You need to PM bank details for that BMC

PM sent re. brake master cylinder

Also, some BM57s have a solid blank (need to drill and tap), and some have a grommet (pre-drilled). Do we know which car has which BMC?

With the help of Wing, we have come to a few conclusions thus far; - all BM57s are 2port only - they have the 3rd port there as a blank - proportioning is the same between ABS and non-ABS Now, I need to FIND a BM57.. Then I have to work out if I will drill and tap, or add a T piece.

I've got a non-ABS S13 with R34 GT-t brakes all-round, and am obviously lacking an adequate BMC. I love a very firm pedal, so bigger is better for me - Logical option, BM57 (1 1/16") As far as I can tell, these were only made for ABS use, thus will have 2 outputs.. With me needing 3. Can anyone shed some light as to my options? Looking at an R33 ABS BMC, it appears there is a blank face where the third line would go - can this be tapped and run like normal? Can I just run a T piece out of the one front line output? Google has failed me on this one, so I need some help Also - can anyone tell me what BMC the R34 GT-ts use? I found the info for every model BUT the 34GTT. Thanks! -Luke

Would you happen to be willing to separate the drivers' front brake caliper?

Name says it all! Don't bother if they're over $900 with tyres. Wouldn't mind two sets, actually. PM me -Luke

Whats the condition of the nismo shocks? All 100,000,000 shocks I have here are blown :\ Also, resulting ride height?

Its STILL sitting in the shed.. Finally got the SR20 running well, so money has been going back into that. Id like to get something done with the 26 before uni goes back next month, but im still poor :lol: thanks for that skygtsnt; the turbos were both shot actually - that possibility didnt occur to me at all! I cant remember if the 26 has the oil cooler setup.. I thought not, but I am mentally challenged in the memory department >.<

Hi all, I'm running R32 GT-R diff, hubs and axles in my S13, and just bought a set of 33 GTS-t rear brakes. Some douche that owned my GTR bits before me was a braniac, and chopped off the extra lug on the side of the hub thats used for the drum handbrake (which S-series obviously lack), so now I need to replace the hubs to put on the new brakes. What other Nissans use the same hubs as the 32 GTR? I had a quick look at the GTST ones I have, and they look to be the same size as S13/S14 etc (diametre.. I was too lazy to count teeth). I'll have to have a search about the skyline rear brake swap, as I doubt the S13 knuckles have the mounting hole for the drum handbrake anyway. I might have to swap bushes in the 33 knuckle to get rid of its HICAS, and use those.. Cheers, -Luke

Hands up all those that understood that he was referring to the transfer case...

Cheapest and easiest way to get it past, is to find a different inspector

Im in the southern highlands (1hr south of campbelltown). Pretty much every shop is a day trip for me :lol:

Wonderful info, thanks for all the help Whats a ballpark cost on getting a head Xrayed? I can strip it and clean it myself to save money. Anywhere in particular I should be calling to find out more? I'm not worried about the block at all, as the RB30 bottom end will be replacing it.

Much appreciated mate, do you know where the crack was? I dont have the means to pressure test the head any more, so ill probably have to look with my superman xray vision lol

Bearings were replaced, was a great rebuild - the problem was that the old owner started thrashing it straight away and didnt service it in the first 11k of its life. It was a tight build, so it really needed to be cared for during run-in. It had a metal head gasket, and no signs of leaks through anywhere there. I've picked it up just after its death, so i'm doing my best to salvage what I can (it'll be going into a sileighty). Is this a problem anyone has experienced alongside a spun bearing before? We can't really work out if its the block or the head. If its the block, thats all fine and dandy, as I'm planning on using an RB30 block anyway, but if the head is f**ked, so am I I've been trawling the forums for days and haven't seen any other cases of screwed gallery walls in the head, but I could just be failing at the internet. Cheers, -Luke

Hi all, Got an RB26 here that has spun a bigend bearing and scored the block. Thats all well and good though, Understandable failure. Whats got me beat though, is why i've got oil floating at the top of the radiator but no water in the sump. I've pressure tested the water side of the head (its already apart), and it comes up fine. I'd like to salvage the head as its recently been ported and polished, with all new valves etc. Theres no visible signs of damage to the head, and the engine was pulled out when the bearing noise became audible (before it went completely boom). Oil was found in the radiator when the engine was coming out, so it looks like it happened around the same time as the bearing failure. Engine was only 11,000kms old after a rebuild with oversized forgies and a good head job. Anyone have any insight as to where the damage is likely done? Cheers, -Luke

Khumos moved to rear, added bridgestone potenza RE040's to the front (225/45/r17) And update; the rear offset is actually +37, my bad

was passed by YLD-34T on the northern distributor (wollongong) today. Anyone here floating about in the wollongong area? I'm living down here for uni currently. Know a few R31 guys, but most of them (BJ, you poof) have left the area now. I've got a Champagne 180SX

bump! VERY keen on R33 GT-R wheels now - I'm not sure if R32 wheels will fit my brakes (310mm R34 GT-t)

Should we say $1699 then?

Cmon, you know you want them >.<

Wow, those are omgsex :| Makes me wish I wasnt poor, thats for sure.

Item: Advan RG's Age: Unknown (bought from jap auction). I've had them for three years. Condition: Good Price: $1800ono To Fit: 5x114.3 PCD Vehicles, namely S14/15, R32/33/34 etc Location: Southern Highlands, NSW (home) / Wollongong, NSW (uni) Contact: [email protected], 0422 296 613 (SMS preferably) Comments: Very good condition rims, but unfortunately with some minor chips on the edges. Came like that from japan - doesn't look like gutter rash however; I'm thinking its from tyre changing. Not to worry though - its barely noticeable. No bends, cracks, buckles etc. Front: 17x8.5", +31 offset. 235/45/r17 Kuhmo Ecsta ASTs. 90% tread. Rear: 17x8.5", +38 offset. 225/45/r17 random shit. One good one, one pretty average. (yes, I am too poor to get decent tyres ) I am pretty screwed for money currently, so my main priority is getting cash to live with, but I am keen on a set of either R32 or R33 GT-R stockies, with some cash on the side. Cheers, -Luke

Now for a year-long bump. Scathing has been spot on the money this entire thread, and AdamsR33 made himself look completely stupid, over and over again. Food for thought on the undercover cops scenario; Ive had quite a few attempted baitings and I can assure you that the cops are indeed being extremely dangerous. I dont do silly shenanigans on the street, and have a tendancy to just roll my eyes (and occasionally flip off) anybody that tries to race me. These undercover cops dont always just come up beside you and rev. Ive had one sit about 30cm from my rear bar, backing off and accelerating hard over and over, flying past then cutting in front etc. "Just ignore it" is hardly an option in that sort of situation!! One of Scathings examples said quite clearly that the victim might accelerate harder than usual in frustration of the situation - this also extends to getting away from the knobjockey that is trying their best to put you into a telegraph pole. If that wasnt a cop, I would have been quite inclined to shoot down a sidestreet at a million miles an hour in fear that they were trying to carjack me. Looking back, I wish I got the numberplate on that car (as it passed me I saw it was a cop) and reported it, but spending the next hour at a friends' place in a fuming rage felt more appropriate at the time.