Predator1

Oh dam. Thats going to be an expensive fix. Happened to me too. Ended up needing a big single and a seqy. Now it runs just fine.

Bonus.. wanaB thieves will have to carry a jump start! Think positive... no pun intended

+1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while

Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.

I have the OS Giken R3C with the GM 26 spline input shaft in my 32(Rb32 with only around 750hp atw) and its a pig to drive. Its actually very forgiving when its cold when when its warmed up, it chirps the tires even when trying to take off slowly. Mind you though, part of this has to do with my clutch master(Non-OEM) so the travel on the rod is shorter. How did you get 1130hp at 85% @e50?! Are you running a stroker? If so, I would recommend the R3C purely because it handles the abuse.

As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.

Im not sure if its a good idea to put the valley cover.. it wouldnt be good for the coils I imagine. I thought about machining some holes or a design in the valley cover to get some ventilation but I dont want to ruin it.

That sucks man. I am also running the same ones I think.. the white stalks with yellow o-ring. Did yours misfire from the start? Or gradually? Are you running the valley cover? mine didnt clear so I left it off, but probably for a good reason too, and im running .8 gap platinums. No issues at all so far, unless im running some weird gen.

Not to derail, but what issues? I have the 1st gen PRP kit and I (touch wood.. NOT Diddy's) never had any.. altho i did hear that later revisions people experienced misires etc.

Beat me to it Big single, Seqy, #sorted

Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit, Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.

Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be. Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.

Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.

Oh magnet on magnet action... oohhhh I wana see some of that action

Toasty! I was around the same. Around 50 but with a fuel cooler. Got my tuner to dial down the pumps and its so much better.. i think last time I drove it was around 35-40 during summer. PWM makes a huge diff. I have the 1 PWM controller running my feeds.