Predator1

Why not just put more power into your current setup?

Look up BrakesDirect. I bought my entire brake kit off them. Pretty sure they could do you a good deal for just the fronts.

That button comes standard in Thailand.. for when you want to be "REALLY" sure..

Get stuffed.. I'm going to win it, then I be doing a K-Swap and do 7's.

Your mates on crack

Correct me if wrong, but if I was under the impression that if you open the cap when the thermostat is open, then there is very little, or no pressure?

Nice! How are those brakes? Are they really that good as they claim? My car isnt running yet. Final stages.

Yep. Do you have those?

I think I can relate. I'm in the same boat. My original plan was 2.8, but here we are. I had to ditch the clutch booster to make my GReddy plenum fit :(. The only 'stock' feature I've ditched is HICAS, still keeping AC/ABS etc. Re Brakes - Look up BrakesDirect - They did me an AWESOME deal for a pretty dam good price. 6pot fronts and 4pot rears.. 378mm fronts and 355mm rears. They brakes are fkn HUGE.

The torque of the RB30 is real. My mates 32R makes 440~awkw @ only 18psi with no timing, and that thing had virtually no lag. Even going uphill, that thing would just haul from any gear/revs. In contrast, a 2.6 or 2.7 or eve a 2.8 would see considerable lag before it starts to boogey. IMHO, stick with what you have, and enjoy life.

If you already have a 30, then stick with it. 2.7 will see a noticeable amount of lag, plus you might need a smaller turbo. Depends on what you really want at the end of the day. How much power does your 30 make atm?

THIS. I kinda regret doing a 3.2 mainly due to fitmet issues. I just hate chopping shit up, but thats just me. I'm sure when mines running it will be well worth it, but if i was to do it all again, I'd def do a high revving 500kw 2.8.

I went sequential because even with dog gears, i'd be limited to the stock casing, as opposed to a billet casing, which wouldn't twist as much(if any).

No, I've been told several times that billet blocks are a race only block and not suitable for road use. When asking specifics, i get given the cold shoulder. Plus there are a few big boys running billet blocks, but information is kept hush hush, however they are quick to recommend with their sales pitches.

Its the torque that will kill the box and how its driven, anyway, I was in a similar boat, and I decided to go Albins.

Hi mate, I've heard very similar results to what you have mentioned. Unfortunately, the big workshops that read such posts, and the guys that run them, dont have the f**king balls to admit or shed any light around this at all. THis is the exact reason I didnt go billet. Yes, I've asked some big workshops on fb, to which they ignore. Absolute f**king dream boats they are.

f**k. I've got an Albins coming in, which should help I hope

Yep, sounds right.. I had my head CNC'd as well, so thats probably what it is. I just dont want a super aggressive lumpy idle and bunny hop with my triple plate in slow speeds.

Check your NOS nozzles, could be clogged up with diesel.

Thoughts? I've attached the specs sheet.

Hi Guys, I have a new CNC'd 26 head with the Kelfords catalogue thrown in it, good for 12+rpm. Flow specs: .450" Intake -295cfm Exhaust 214cfm Now my cam specs seem a bit wild/weird? Anyone have experience with the Kelfords split type cams? My specs are: Intake 278mm @ 10.8mm Exhaust - 286mm - 10.80mm Any ideas what it would be like paired with a 3.2 and a 9180?

To the OP - I'd recommend talking to the likes of Herman from PRP or even RIPS(New Zealand) who could sell you a good block, or even do a basic shortblock. At least you'd know they're built right.

I'm not sure, I've been advised that its a 'race only' block, and its not suited for the street. I've been trying to dig up info on this but no-one seems to want to disclose. I also heard that some people advised on pre-heating the coolant prior to starting or some crap. Another thing I found is that billet blocks need lots of oil pressure(dry sump) as apparently the clearances become tight when at temperature. These are just claims I've heard, so I don't know how accurate they are.

Pretty sure you cant run the billet block on the street.

Looks good alright. I went with BrakesDirect kit. I went with the bigger 378mm 6 pot front and 355mm 4 port rear's. Price wise, its pretty decent.