Predator1

Cool thanks. I think what I'll do is replace the pulley, and while I'm there, I'll stick some foam in while the radiator is out. Where did you get the billet pulley from? Maybe I'll just buy that.

Hey man, I replaced the stock AC fan with a 1000cfm SPAL slim unit(There aren't many with this spec from SPAL). I used the cable ties and tabs to mount it. Simple as. Took like 5 mins - Just have to keep an eye on the wiring - I used the stock wiring with that fan as it drew only i think 10~amps. I have since replaced it with a 2100cfm Maradyne 14inch. This is a beast. Just fits on the AC condenser. Had to run new wires as it draws ~17 amps.

I don't have AC as I need to run new lines(Manifold doesn't clear). The condenser and pump are in, just needs new lines and gassed up. I have tried another hub - The original hub that I had had leaked and wasn't locking up. I can def hear the fan roaring when I rev it in traffic. I've also tested this - As soon as the engine is turned off, the fan stops spinning, indicating its 'locked up'. The shroud is securely screwed into the radiator - I guess what I could do is put some foal sealant around the edges of the shroud, but on my old 26 setup, I had the identical setup, and no issues at all. Its only with my new motor. As you can imagine, I have almost tried everything here. This is the fan that I run for my AC: https://thermofans.com.au/products/ef8916 Its pretty damn beefy. When its on, I can see and feel the hot air by the windscreen with the bonnet closed. Pretty damn loud too.

Hey, Yeah I have tried a few things. My issue is - At idle, its very hard to get a stable temp. With a 1000cfm SPAL AC fan, which was set to come on at 94, it wouldn't be able to control at all. In traffic, it would regularly go over 100. I tried lowering it to 88, which didnt help at all, even 80. My setup below: 3.2 Nitto - Block isn't grout filled or anything ATI 1000hp kit with the water pump pulley(IIRC its 127~mm diameter) Trust Radiator before, currently running 44~mm KoyoRad Stock shroud Nismo thermostat(replaced it with another brand new Nismo) - Both of them open at the same temp(Tested it in a boiling pot) Upgraded to 2500~ Maradyne 14inch AC fan with new wiring etc. Greddy Radiator breather tank GKTech Radiator Fan(Have tried stock fan as well but its the same, doesn't change temps Carbon fiber cooling panel(doesn't make a difference if taken off) Currently its set to 83 degrees. The new Maradyne AC fan does help, but in a stinking hot summer day here in NZ(26~) it still has a hard time, as the temps do creep up slowly. I've spoken to the engine builder who doesn't quite remember, but he says he usually uses RB30 water pumps. So that's essentially my cooling setup and my situation. Its winter here now, so I dont drive her much. I should say, during summer, my cruising temps on the motorways around 76 ECT and 74~ oil. I do have a turbo beanie which has raised my oil and ECT temps by 1-2 degrees average, however the issues at idle still remain. It used to be much worse without the beanie. Now my engine bay is much more cooler - Except for this lingering issue as you can see.

Ah bugger. I suspect I have an N1 pump. No way to confirm. Could you please tell me where you got the VG30 billet wp pulley from? I'm keen to buy one to help speed up my wp to see if that makes a diff to my idle temps.

If you're looking at replacing, perhaps its worth considering the Bosch combined sensor instead, as it reads temp as well. I run 3 of those. 5 wires each. Food for thought.

Ok guys lets not de-rail this thread. I appreciate all feedback. I'm not about to over-speed my turbo, esp after all the money I've thrown in this thing. I will report back once I have my box in, along with the speed sensor amongst others. Keen to hear about the additional power it makes with a compressor upgrade though. I've asked a few places for prices, so will update once I hear back re. Thanks all. Edit - So one of them just called me back advising that BW dont sell the compressor wheels seperately, soo. @hyper-gear How would I source a 9280 compressor wheel, plus, will the 9180 compressor housing physically fit the wheel, I assume it will need some additional clearance?

Sorry to dig up again - I think I have an N1 pump. Is there anyway of telling from the outside?? I'm having the same issues.

I just called a few local spots here and they said they dont have a listing for the wheels, just the supercores and housings? How would I go abouts sourcing just the compressor wheel?

Mind if I ask how much work it was to swap the wheels? also, what sort of power did you make on 98/e85?

My rev limit is 8k if that helps or makes things worse. Oops, Yeah i forgot to set that in F. Also, I updated the elevation to around 650ft. Still that estimates my shaft speeds to around 92k. Doesn't sound right? Might be worth noting perhaps that I have a Greddy 4 inch intake(as in Motive Video). My fmic has 3.5inch intake and outlet, and the turbo has a 2.5inch outlet, so my fabricator I had to use cones to adapt. I really dont see my exhaust being a restriction as its 4 inch all the way through, and I dont have a cat.. Only 1 muffler at exit. Im using the Link 3 port MAC valve too if that makes any difference - I did look at the 4 port but not sure whether that would make any difference in my case. Is it possible to choke the exhaust with such a relatively low shaft speed?

Yes, I was also advised about the stock bov, so I upgraded to the TurboSmart one. I have no idea whether its leaking though??? How heck would I test? I'm a big fan of them as well. I'm hoping that its not the turbo maxing out. I had a bit of a play with matchbot(first time i tried it), and here is what I see: https://www.borgwarner.com/go/6BEDRE The estimated power is very close, but theres some stuff I dont know, eg AF ratios, EGT, FMIC Pressure drop etc. The plots on the map seem accurate enough. I switched it to the 9280 and it seemed to be around 70%(given the input values are somewhat correct). I dont know what to do with the Turbine Expansion Ratio(apart from lining them up on the chart) - Could you gents perhaps have a go?

Thanks @Lithium - After I read your reply a few times, I'm beginning to understand it. I think I was on the right track in my mind, but I probably could have articulated it better. I was at a point where I was trying to calc flow rates by using BSAC, AF ratios etc as I didnt think the turbo was at its peak already. And yes, the boost was dropping off, the tuner tried to add DC from memory, but it dropped boost regardless what he did. He thought it was a boost leak, which we then validated and none were found. I wish he had a pressure sensor which we could have hookedup, but all good. Think what I'll do is: 1) Stick the speed sensor on 2) Stick my sequential in 3) E85 tune 4) Stick a pressure sensor and maybe a temp sensor on the turbo outlet(I'm out of temp inputs, so will have to convert an analogue to temp maybe). I'd be keen to see if anyone's running a 9280 on a 3.2 or similar motor. Even with that turbo, I dont think i'd hit 1000awhp, am I right?

Cool thanks. That sucks! This turbo is just so damn responsive. My power goals 1000-1100awhp. I knew from the start that the turbo wouldn't make 1000 wheel. I was expecting around 600-650awkw. Silly question then, will she make more power on e85 then on the same boost? Would I be correct in assuming that my next turbo will have to flow around 100-110 lbs/min? Looking at the 9280 map, id be on a similar island, around 62% with around 85lb/min and 2.8 PR?

Thanks heaps guys for your input so far. I don't have a full spec list on my head, but got the whole Kelfords catalogue at it. I just dug my specs up, its a bit, but here's the flow numbers at max lift: .450" - In=295, Out=214. Apparently that's meant to be quite a bit?? Feel free to advise. Could it be that my flow rates are off now seeing as my heads flowing a lot more, per pound of air, that my flow rate calcs are off now? Instead of needing 82lbs/min, it needs less? If that's the case, then it will change the efficiency island I sit on? Hope that makes sense. Yeah its 1.10 tcf indicating fw, but it made 560~ at the rears quite happily, noting that the tuner didn't need to put a lot of timing into her either. He was going to push around 30 but we stopped as its only a stock box for now and pump. We checked for boost leaks as well - None at all. I was kinda expecting around 600 at the rears with this setup on pump, so a bit disappointed. Does this mean I cannot run more boost on my setup???? I really wanted to push it to at least 2 bar. I have plenty of fuel for my current power, but I will have to get bigger injectors to reach my goals. The turbo is bloody responsive don't get me wrong. I love this turbo. The response is fkn awesome, coupled with the low down torque of the 3.2, but top end of the curve doesn't give me a lot of confidence.

Hi guys, I recently had my car re tuned for a few reasons, and we decided to put some timing and boost. It made some good power for starters. It made 450kw on 14psi, and 565 on 25~ (rwkw for now). On high boost, the tuner was concerned with the IAT's sky rocketing every pull. I saw the temps going from 40-65C on every run. This only happened on high boost. I was very shocked, as the turbo's not running alot of boost. The tuner had no idea why this was happening. He didn't have a pressure gauge that he could stick on the exhaust(I have a spare port). The IAT is is located on the intake piping just before the plenum, and is the Bosch high resolution sensor. At this point, I'd like to think the turbo's running out of puff, or being choked, but how?! I didn't have a speed sensor installed back then. The 9180 with 1.05 housing is rated to 1000 flywheel hp, but I'm only making 820hp, or 612kw. The car is an absolute weapon, and I've only used high boost a handful of times, but I'd like to sort this issue out as no point doing ethanol tune so far. Looking at the compressor map, with the given boost of 24-25psi, I have a pressure ratio of 2.8. I was working out my flow rates, so something like 1lb/min = 10hp, so in my case, I'd be consuming around 82lbs/min? If I plot that on the compressor map it seems I'm sitting very close to the choke line? Could I really be choking the turbo with only 25psi? Perhaps if someone knows more about compressor maps could chime in and shed some light? Here's some pics of the dyno pull Here's my setup: RIPS Built 3.2 - From what I can calc, its a 8.3:1 cr New RB26 Head CNC ported 286/278 degree cams EFR9180 with 1.05 exhaust housing 60mm Turbosmart w/g 6Boost manifold(standard thickness, not the thick ones) 4 inch dump, no cat, just 1 muffler - The whole exhaust if 4 inches in diameter Hypertune G2 FMIC. Unsure of exact sizes but its around 115mm thick. If any of you guru's could perhaps shed some light?

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8-9k is achievable on a basic RB anyways. But if your turbo is falling off at 7, then there's no point in revving it any higher. Mines fully built, and I only rev mine to 9.

Do you have a pressure sensor in the radiator?

I bought the full brakes direct kit. I had issues, however the brakes themselves are pretty damn good once everything was sorted.

Thanks guys. I'm just concerned about my tune. So safe to just stick 1 flyback across the SSR terminals that go towards my pumps? I think both pumps get their positive from the SSR. I'll have to double check.

Ah yeah so mines at 250hz, doubt that be an issue. The tuner didnt stick flybacks on my SSR which I always was a bit dubious about. I run the 100A SSR too.

Whats your PWM setup?

Funny you mentioned the hum noise, cos mine makes that too. I noticed in the logs stats, from memory my max Inj DC is around 38%.. So judging by that, my FP's sitting under 70%?? I think with PWM its the opposite? What's your PWM setup?

Yeah well I do have ect temp issues. Low speed it wont come down as fast, and at idle it will creep, even with a 2100cfm AC fan(Aux), so it feels like the fuels also heating up, hence this thread.