Russman

It's nowhere near as deep but it's 600 wide and prob height of 280? From what I understand the PWR is very efficient with cooling but not as good for flow. Flow is what is causing our restriction...

Yeah don't really wanna go GTR cooler. I know it would do the job but I'm wanting something smaller and less laggy.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371544-better-flowing-intercooler-for-rb25-in-r32/#entry5922974 Can anyone help with my intercooler needs?

Hi all. Don't really post in here often but for some info on my car, HERE is the link to my circuit car build. I need some advice on a cooler that suit my needs. The cooler that I currently have is a PWR and it served me well with a 230kw RB20 setup however now I have a T4 twin scroll GTX3076 turbo on an RB25 and it's struggling to keep up. We were expecting to get up around 280-300rwkw's but couldn't get any more than ~260kw out of it. I wanted to use a Greddy LS cooler but it too long and will foul with my oil cooler box and all the piping is made custom to suit the PWR cooler. Since there is only a bit of movement with piping I need a better flowing cooler that isn't too wide. The width of the PWR is 720mm from end to end (the very ends). I've looked at this Blitz kit from just jap LINK and it is 805mm wide (end to end) so should be able to fit it. Down side is that I need to buy the whole kit and I don't need piping. Does anybody know if this will support flow up to 300kw or even more? What other options are there that i haven't thought of? Oh.. And superlap is in 2 weeks so I would like to get it sorted sooner rather than later... lol thanks Russ Here are some photos before the oil cooler box was build. Just for reference. I'll get some pics of oil cooler box later.

YEP

I was looking for a supplier a while ago and couldn't find one?

Dunno mate that's a wierd one. I only know 32's.. in the last post the picture shows where the rack finishes but that measurement is meaningless. It's the amount of travel at the other end of the rack (deep into the rack) that matters. ie how far it can travel in, not how far it sticks out at that end.

Share your secret where you get the tyres from?

should be getting a subframe dropped off at the workshop tomorrow. If I still need one I'll give you a call. Thanks Rob

Are the washers sliding into the rack? That's where the extra travel is... all the talk above about rubbing is for a 32. should be fine with the 33.

Thanks guys. We did some work at the workshop today. 12 solid hours. Found the problem welsh plug that came out. What are the chances! Random thing to happen! So we replaced a heap of others to be safe. Found the exhaust leak. Pretty damn obvious! manifold will be getting machined so it doesn't happen again. Other things... Front camber arms have gone in. They are Hardrace via just jap. Seem to be good things.

Don't worry. You're not the only person with a lack of synchro's on 4th and 5th...

Sounds simple. So all other arms will fit. Hicas lock, rear steering arms, tailshaft?

Nice. what happend at 2:46? Got no synchro in 4th?

FREE PIZZA!!! Hey Birds. Please bring along a small and med hoodie for me to try. If I don't win the door prize I'll buy one haha

sequences are cool

I think it is going to be sold out today Crazy popular...

Yeah I did hear that. I'll have to ask him details about it. Won't be doing anything like that yet. That means new diff etc...

What model 32? GTR? GTSt?

Cool. I'll stick with what I know for now but might be something to look at in the future.

I haven't heard of that? Please elaborate... Is it a straight bolt in? Diff, hicas, arms?

Stick with the gram lights. I love 33 GTR rims on 32's but the gram lights are different. Keep em!

The extra movement into the rack means a lot more movement out at the steering arm on the hub. You'll have to grind the whole thing off. Just do it, make it work, get an allignment.

Running semi's for 5 years on a subframe that had crap welds. Looks like it had been repaired poorly in the past. It actually cracked right next to the weld. It's been repaired by Mat but a whole new subframe would be a good idea. Thanks mate.

Stops are on the LCA's. Can be done on the car. There will be a DIY guide somewhere on how to do the job.