Bankrupt

I've got an r32 gtr that has recently developed an issue. It currently runs a power fc, HKS twin spark and splitfire coils, 600cc injectors and 2860-7 turbines. I did the timing on it not long ago and marked the belt before removal. When i went to install the belt again I timed it according to specs and noticed that the intake cam was 3 teeth out from my mark. I re-checked my timing and found that I was correct and the cam was retarded by 3 teeth before. Now the car doesn't make boost till very late and the power fc is making the engine check light flash when it comes on boost. I think this is due to engine knock, but I never really monitored it before hand to compare it to how the graph is now, and I'm not the best with power fc's. Is it possibly a trick somebody has tried to do to set the car up to perform better at high rpm before it was tuned? Or are there some sort of aftermarket cams that recommend to do this? Im confused! Here is the knock level when the light is flashing

Would that have told me clearly if the Gtr was a v spec?

BNR32-309495 Thanks

PM sent

Ok so heres what I did... Firstly machined out the balancer to fit a taper lock. I had to allow 3 degrees for the lock to work. See the picture for the explenation. Then I made up a ring 1 thou undersized, and shrunk it onto the balancer to reinforce the lip. Next was the actual taper lock. Harder than it looks to get it perfect, but this also has a 3 degree taper on. Now just to be safe, I cut a small amount from the washer that sits in front of the collar incase my measurements were out and it had to protrude slightly. This washer is very very hard btw, just about wrecked my cutter Here's how it looks all together Then everything was covered in loctite and thrown together. This is essentially a temporary fix for when I want to build the engine. I don't think ill ever get it off the crank without causing damage so luckily the crank isn't something ill want to keep haha. In all it was a pretty productive weekend and the car is running well

Yea oil pump is my main concern. I know I can put the balancer on to the point that it won't come loose again with a taper lock coupling, but every time I drive it ill be scared of oil pump failure. Looks like it might be sitting in the shed for a bit while I save up for a set of forgies. Does anybody think its worth buying a new billet crank rather than going r33 crank etc?

Thanks Mr Stabby, I would assume that they use this torque due to using the loctite as a lubricant. I will most probably use the workshop manual values just to be safe

A photo if anybody wants to see. 340nm with loctite I have been told by engine builders. It's a very frustrating problem to have considering the rest of the motor is in good condition

Was done 11 months ago, and I don't have receipts ect. Plus the previous owner is friends with the owner of the workshop so I doubt he would be any helpful in trying to blame them. Thanks Terry, I'm new to SAU but not new skylines so have used the forums for info in the past. Yea if it wasn't for a noisy ac belt I would be in a lot more trouble right now.

Hi there people. Just thought I would share my problem and see what you guys think. I recently purchased an r32 GTR with some reasonable mods. While adjusting the belts on the weekend I noticed the harmonic balancer was loose. Sure enough I pulled the bolt out (by hand) to find the keyway on my crank all smashed up. I seem to have found it before too much damage has been done, as the nose on the crank is still true and round. The previous owner had the timing belt done by a so called reputable workshop, who did the bolt up without loctite. The motor was making 340kw before this, so I would like to avoid stripping the motor (if possible). I'm currently looking into machining the balancer out and installing a torque coupling in an attempt to keep the motor together. If anybody has any experience with this, advice would be much appreciated.

looking at a 32 gtr 6U9000BNR32011817 Thanks