kyle345

Thanks for your help, yeah i can fill a converter, you make perfect sense in what your saying also in cold fluid making it run bad and causing knock sensor, always thought it was something to do with the AT. Will drop the pan and replace solenoids see how it goes, where can i get the kit from? I know they come in a set of 3 i believe. Cheers for your input

But anyway i need somehow to diagnose what the problem is exactly, if anyone has gone through this issue too

I dont know if it was 21 but i had the code before when my car wouldnt start 'primary ign' it was the CAS overheating, pour cold water on it and it starts again

Research primary ign code for r34 - can be CAS AFM or coil packs. And im saying what if this is the torque converter and not to do with the codes

Any ideas?

Hmm doubt its CAS or AFM. Because its not throwing a primary ign code. I wonder why its only sluggish when it starts cold but if i start it hot its heaps better. Thinking about giving it an AT service and replace that solenoid because i know thats the reason why sometimes AT light comes on and gets stuck in 3rd (common problem after they reach 140,000) But sluggish wise i dont think its the AT

Knock sensor could be the reason its become so sluggish though

I am a mechanic... A knock sensor is not something that would cause power loss. My theory it is something with the gear box like it is stuck in limp mode or something so maybe the shift solenoid needs replacing. So im thinking thats what shift s/v stands for. "Shift solenoid valve". Could be wrong im just not sure because this problem does not throw any lights

Ok to keep it simple as possible with no confusion I own a R34GT Auto For some reason when i press the accelerator the car feels heavy like its struggling to get power, the revs dont go up in sync with when i press the pedal, almost goes to the floor before power kicks in but its still very week. Sometimes it runs fine and this doesnt happen so this tells me its an electrical problem seeing as its intermittent. It seems to only happen on cold starts, and if i start my car hot it seems to be fine sometimes. The performance does not change during driving you have to physically turn the car off and back on. Ran scan tool and i got these codes. Engine: P0325 Knock Sensor - B1 A/T: Shift S/V A(P SW) I doubt its the knock sensor so i think its to do with the transmission code but have no idea what that is. Car has done 160,000km Any Ideas????? Cheers

Are not driven*

Yeah can get a motor for $600 but then again wheres the proof that say the motor has done 80,000km Skylines are driven by grandmas either so the motor is gaurenteed to of been thrashed, better off rebuilding the motor you have and making that one good because then essentially you have a motor in your car with 0km on it

Compression leak tested the cylinders. Piston rings are leaking and inlet valves are also leaking. Gonna replace rings and rebuild head, lap valves. Gonna be a hell of a fun job -.- But atleast it will be like having a brand new motor

Yeah but we want to know where its leaking, out of the inlet, exhaust? Could just be leaking cuz of head gasket, could be leaking through valves, could be leaking because of warped head with a leak test we would be able to see where its leaking?

Is it worth trying to get a tool to do a compression leak test? Or should i just start to get the head off and check straightness

Why cant you machine them?