kyle345

Thanks for your help, yeah i can fill a converter, you make perfect sense in what your saying also in cold fluid making it run bad and causing knock sensor, always thought it was something to do with the AT. Will drop the pan and replace solenoids see how it goes, where can i get the kit from? I know they come in a set of 3 i believe. Cheers for your input

But anyway i need somehow to diagnose what the problem is exactly, if anyone has gone through this issue too

I dont know if it was 21 but i had the code before when my car wouldnt start 'primary ign' it was the CAS overheating, pour cold water on it and it starts again

Research primary ign code for r34 - can be CAS AFM or coil packs. And im saying what if this is the torque converter and not to do with the codes

Any ideas?

Hmm doubt its CAS or AFM. Because its not throwing a primary ign code. I wonder why its only sluggish when it starts cold but if i start it hot its heaps better. Thinking about giving it an AT service and replace that solenoid because i know thats the reason why sometimes AT light comes on and gets stuck in 3rd (common problem after they reach 140,000) But sluggish wise i dont think its the AT

Knock sensor could be the reason its become so sluggish though

I am a mechanic... A knock sensor is not something that would cause power loss. My theory it is something with the gear box like it is stuck in limp mode or something so maybe the shift solenoid needs replacing. So im thinking thats what shift s/v stands for. "Shift solenoid valve". Could be wrong im just not sure because this problem does not throw any lights

Ok to keep it simple as possible with no confusion I own a R34GT Auto For some reason when i press the accelerator the car feels heavy like its struggling to get power, the revs dont go up in sync with when i press the pedal, almost goes to the floor before power kicks in but its still very week. Sometimes it runs fine and this doesnt happen so this tells me its an electrical problem seeing as its intermittent. It seems to only happen on cold starts, and if i start my car hot it seems to be fine sometimes. The performance does not change during driving you have to physically turn the car off and back on. Ran scan tool and i got these codes. Engine: P0325 Knock Sensor - B1 A/T: Shift S/V A(P SW) I doubt its the knock sensor so i think its to do with the transmission code but have no idea what that is. Car has done 160,000km Any Ideas????? Cheers

Are not driven*

Yeah can get a motor for $600 but then again wheres the proof that say the motor has done 80,000km Skylines are driven by grandmas either so the motor is gaurenteed to of been thrashed, better off rebuilding the motor you have and making that one good because then essentially you have a motor in your car with 0km on it

Compression leak tested the cylinders. Piston rings are leaking and inlet valves are also leaking. Gonna replace rings and rebuild head, lap valves. Gonna be a hell of a fun job -.- But atleast it will be like having a brand new motor

Yeah but we want to know where its leaking, out of the inlet, exhaust? Could just be leaking cuz of head gasket, could be leaking through valves, could be leaking because of warped head with a leak test we would be able to see where its leaking?

Is it worth trying to get a tool to do a compression leak test? Or should i just start to get the head off and check straightness

Why cant you machine them?

Cam timing wouldnt be wrong because its always be fine, and almost impossible for the belt to slip

Yeah i realized that it would of been reading air temp and not water temp so could of been way hotter. How would cam timing be related? I understand what you mean that the valves couldnt be closing soon enough, but how would overheating actually change the timing? Usually when all cylinders are dead its just the head gasket?

So simple run down, my water pump bearing was f**ked and shaking itself to shit. Water started to pour out of the waterpump all over the belts (i heard the belts squeeling whilst driving). Then i started to feel a loss of power so i went to pull over and as i did the engine cut out. I got it towed back home, topped up radiator with water and you can see the water pissing out of the water pump like someone left the tap on. Tried to start car, cranks but wont fire up sounds like low compression. Just compression tested all cylinders and these are the results. Cylinder 1: 90 psi Cylinder 2: 30 psi Cylinder 3: 30 psi Cylinder 4: 30 psi Cylinder 5: 30 psi Cylinder 6: 90 psi Im not sure what sort of compression these rb25's are meant to have but it seems very low. Spark plugs when taken out were very dry, so that tells me that fuel hasnt been getting into the cylinders so not sure whats going on there. Looked down plug holes and cannot see any holes in pistons, so im gonna try and get a tool do cylinder leak tests. Anybody have any idea what problems there could be? Why the car is not starting is obviously due to low compression, im curious as to whether it may just be the head gasket though. When running the car i never let the temp go over 3/4 so it never hit the red margin, so i doubt piston rings are fried.

So the bearing in my viscous hub fan has gone on my RB25DE Neo and ive been looking at buying one on ebay but can only find Turbo ones listed. Is there actually a difference between the non turbo and turbo hub??

Performance mods on an na? I dont think so... $200 is nothing,not much im able to do, as for the rims they were on the car when i bought it like i said i cant afford new ones as much as i hate chromies

Well sorry but not all of us are rich and can adford to buy and then modify a R34 how we want, if money was no option it would look nothing like that.

Yep just looked at my mates 34 and his are both straight so it must be a 33 one in there

Weve measured both sides and they are the same length If anything the bent one is actually slightly longer, so i have to assume thats how its meant to be, due to the evidence also provided above in one of the photos

Believe what you want to believe, i carry on, im happy with the attention i get i dont need to worry about what the haters like you think. A real motor enthusiast respects each vehicle as is, and does not stick to one but experiences as many vehicles as possible. Modding is completely up to the owners, no need to hate because it doesnt suit your taste, do as you wish with yours, i couldnt give two f**ks if you wanna get pink racing stripes cool.

Its not for me, its for ease of sale, theres always going to be one of those p platers around that are gonna see the car and want it because they think it looks cool and makes em cool because they have a car from 2 fast 2 furious I already get heaps of photos in it and everyone complimenting the car