Ben C34

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450029-preperation-required-rb30-block-for-32-stroker-build/page-5 18 Jan. I suggested they will be selling Pete a crank trigger to sort out timing scatter......

Looks sweet! Not very flexy...

I picked that the build will require a crank trigger to sort out timing issues ages ago....

That's soft . Its till it pops then minus 2.

Well not as simple as that, but at the end of the day pretty much everything can be swapped. The brake swap needs 5 stud conversion though. You are going to struggle to find a comprehensive list explaining it all though.

Slow. You forgot slow.

Everything.

That's good you found it. Did you have a bit of flex pipe between the waste gate and returning back to the exhaust?

Not that I care, but when modifying a car it has to all meet the ADR standards. No changing can allowed, no more than a 20% more power etc. There's something about changing to an older engine somewhere, which is a no no, but given an rb30 comes out with one cam, using a different head and cams although stock, is still changing the cam. That's easily sorted by an emissions test though. The 30 bottom end and 26 or 25 head is a bit of an oddball as far as the standards and law goes.

Boost controller plumbed wrong.

Do you have a link to that?

How the legality of using an older engine in your car? I think that's the question. ?? Was that ever discussed when they were taking your money? ?

Shame about the clutch, but that's a seriously encouraging result for low boost. Gonna be awesome!

Should be fine. As always its best to get a tune to make advantage of it. Let us know how you go.

You using a maf?

I wouldn't bother with flex until they can completely get the 98 tune sorted . imagine the ecu scaling between 2 tunes, you're having enough problem with one tune.

What measurements?

Clutch

Remember to disconnect the battery when unplugging air bag stuff!

You are worried about a non existent problem....

I'm very skeptical that you could ever put enough anti seaze to insulate the sparkplug. When doing up the thread it will be squeezed out from the contacting surfaces of the thread, and like jiffo said the face if the plug will make contact. As far as the torque issue, its not a critical item like head bolts. If you decide to use a torque wrench, that's cool, and as mentioned using a lubricant does change the torque, but in reality its not that hard to do the plugs up correctly by hand. Which I will continue to do.

A tune. A cat doesn't fix that.

Replace it. It is stuffed. Genuine is best.

Was that an external gate? What spring?

Bullshit anti seaze will insulate the plug. Against heaps of pressure, no way. Give me an example of when that's happened.