Ben C34

Anyway, fitting a bent rod to the rear suspension would be a very wise use of money to improve the handling of the car you already have. The

Is it even a bar? Its a bent rod right?

Build thread over there. Shit fight here!

And rb26

See. I was helpful. I thought most people knew neo rods were rb26 rods.

Wait, that was with stick springs. New springs and more boost was 568kw. Below your rev limit. Do that.

Well there are guys making 4ooplus and Royce made 510rwkw on an unopened neo, With cams and springs, and head studs replaced leaving the head on. Do that. And get the awesome neo vct action.

How much power you chasing anyway? And why aren't those pistons still in the engine they came from?

So people are going to think an rb26 should be built with second hand pistons? As said, some engines make heaps of power. Some don't. Often the unopened engines are the ones that don't break. Heaps of well built engines fail due to silly mistakes. Good luck with it.

So why are you changing pistons if Adam didn't?

So car drives fine. Starts vibrating. You buy hub adaptors. Is that what happrned or something else inbetween?

Anti clockwise. As per normal.

Leave it there?

Yes definitely better. To actually be able to fit an adapter though the difference in rotor size needs to be a fair bit.

I wouldn't expect much change to low revs power (below 3500) after the final tune realistically. Glad to e proven wrong though

Heaps of cars are imported on a boat. They aren't unloaded by a forklift unless they are a crap car....... Don't buy it.

You sure about that. Check your maths man..... A 4 mm thinner spacer would have 4 mm more thread hanging out...,.

In no way ever could hub adaptors fix a vibration.

What limit on the string though? Stock?

.6 mm is not too small.

Imperial sucks.

For road use they are illegal in aus. You lose the load bearing Centre ring with slip on spacers, and potentially enough engagement on the studs to the nut. Which is bad mmkay

How high are high revs?

Maybe your hub adaptors are the problem

I think you're on the right track thinking the cams are retarded. Based on that the simple option is to advance both. The really time consuming bit comes in when you start to change the overlap by only advancing, or retarding one cam. It is a tricky one, the more time you spend the better it should get. I can't remember what ecu you are using. I found using an AFM would mean mixtures wouldn't need touching, so could be done on the road, or heaps quicker on the Dyno. Where a map ecu would need tweaking to keep the mixtures nice due to changing the volumetric efficiency. I haven't come across the info required to dial in stock cams, and as I have previously mentioned to you when I dialed in my type b cams found they were 4 degrees out. So stock ones would be the same, the thing is its either 4 advanced or retarded. Could be why some 30 builds seem to have super response, running the cams 4 degrees advanced from stock settings, and extra capacity. Considering guys have messed up timing belt installs and run multiple teeth out with the engine still making decent power, it goes to show cam timing issues can be ignored (not that they should, it just doesn't mean the engine doesn't work) Hope that makes sense..... Tl;dr Advance both cams.