Barely used. Like less than 500 k's use. 1 bar spring. I didnt like the shiny blue so stuck some heat reflective aluminum tape to it, which seems to have discolored the anodizing as seen in the photo.... Is 250 posted fair? I think it is.. Or pickup fairview park sa. Ben coooool.
Take it to a machine shop and getting it done properly.
Doing it by hand is half arsed and won't true up the bores. You might as well just rub it with some wet run and your hand.
It's so cheap to get a block honed. Don't waste your time
I would use a bike pump to apply pressure to the ebc signal hose, which should in turn make the solenoid do its thing, and check the wiring thoroughly.
That's why lock kits like what whiteline make are around. The ability to whack them in in less than 30 minutes to tighten up the sloppy bushes is a major plus.
I just so happen to have a set for sale....
As for Terry ' s hypothetical, if a car is well maintained, regardless of kilometers travelled, the car isn't likely to have a catastrophic failure leading to a crash.
What part braking are you concerned about?
I would still check cam timing. People make mistakes.
I recall Stao from Hypergear having his cam timing out after a mechanic installed cams to his car.
Doesn't take much to check.
Doesn't matter.
Has to be taken apart and fixed regardless. It could be the pivot point.
Doesn't change the fact it's extremely dangerous and a chat on a forum won't fix it.
Something is f**ked.....
Are you able to pull the master cylinder and booster off?
If not take it to a brake place asap. That's some dangerous shit right there.
There's not much that makes the car run.
There's not much that makes the car run bad.
Stop swapping ecu's as they are the least likely thing to fail. Cas, afm, injectors, and of course cold start valve, aac.
Why?
Do you want the housings or just the core? The exhaust housings are always worth money....
I might be able to help . I'm in adelaide if you get stuck.