Ben C34

Put old cluster back in. How do you know the new cluster works?

If its due to backlash like your mate said, when you have the new diff installed and setup they set the backlash.

Timing belt is the same as rb25 or 26. Other belts just go to local car parts shop and buy them. You don't need parts numbers. Or search on ebay. You ever done a timing belt before? Get the water pump, cam seals, tensioner , idler and main seal also.

Hard to remember just by looking. Lay the gasket over for another shot. I'm pretty sure you can get away without welding, it just leaves hardly any sealing surface so the fact you have some weld likely means it's going to be fine.

In all seriousness, your not going to get given a number that's OK. Some guys push stock components very hard and it works out for them. Others kill engines with hardly any power. It comes down to how well it was assembled, along with the tune and complete package.

Sort of built. And im curious how an engine makes the power comfortably? Is It just that it hasn't exploded? What rods? I assume you mean horse power. Will probs be ok.

Surely that's impossible to do. Maybe by hoisting the engine up a bit it might happen with great difficulty. And I would be surprised if the crank is going to be ok.

Wow. That's pretty awesome then. Wouldn't be many around with confirmed low k's. Ring a speedo place near you. In sure they can reset it for you no worries.

Well, no way do I believe your car has only 100000 on it anyway. So just put speedo in and off you go. Only suckers believe speedo readings

What does that mean?

I'm sure I have forgotten things. I'm also running an aquamist water injection setup, running water only. And above photo was before heat shielding. Running a pod under the stock top of airbox and snorkel because I couldn't be bothered makimg the inlet pipe to suit the stock box, and the stock box does. It fit as nicely due to the higher height of the 30 block changing how the intercooler pipes run.

Hi all. Figured I would piece together a bit of a build thread , and include whatever info I have posted in other threads already. Little history in the car. Basically to be used as a semi sensible daily, with trips to the drags ass often as ss possible (which is not often at all in adelaide.) Initially running a gt3071 on the rb25 I for some reason decided to pull out the perfectly good bottom end and whack in a stock rb30. Reasons being the obvious off boost drive ability and also to increase the amount of stall on the converter. Trans had a mv shift kit and second gear servo as pretty much the first thing. ALL work is done by me, including tuning (aside from the auto trans, that's the one thing I leave alone!) Running nistune, got some ls coil packs for nothing so whacked them on. Made brackets to sit above exhaust cam cover and even managed to use the original ls coil leads (although a couple are like 12mm too short) A 3076r turbo popped up cheap so grabbed it. Also dropped in some type b poncams I got cheap and retuned. Car picked up power and made power to the limiter, it was falling off big time with the 3071 after 5500 rpm. Never actually had a chance to run the car at the drags with the 3076, with the 3071 it went 12.5 on hi fly tyres. Skip to now and a gt35 xr6 spec popped up as a bargain so I grabbed it. Over the last couple of days managed to fit it all, along with a hks lowmount manifold and turbosmart gate ( retapped manifold to suit.) Going away next week so dyno will be the week after, then I'm entered into the street meet for the 19th (which has been cancelled 3 times!) Here's a pic of how it looks. Im not I to the show side of things at all. And I suck at remembering to take pictures! Future plans involve the obvious built trans, will likely be going full manual, a not sure on mv or keas just yet and a bigger converter, e85 is on the cards but not for a while. Having a one yr old daughter certainly changes priorities, and the car is meant to just be a budget hack. Hopefully a low 12 is going to happen. Which will keep me happy for a few months

The exhaust is easy. I'm amazed how many people find it hard. Go to an exhaust shop and tell them what you want. They do it. Give them money. Job done.

Clean the discs properly before driving.

A wastegate is something i consider you might get away with, as per your experience. Not worth the risk in my opinion if it sticks shut. Also, it doesn't spin at 100,000 rpm.

Or cheap fast reliable. Pick 2

What about op's crusty ratchet? That would be something that you wouldn't put a bar on!

Actually do a full knockoff build, fake z32 afm , turbo , gate, manifold, might as well buy a fake fuel pump and reg and add a bee r for flames. Report back

Some things you can maybe cheap out on. The turbo is not one of them.

They work for some. Think about what you are really risking, time and money, poor perfornance etc Not worth the risk as Scott mentioned considering the other options.

Footwell area.

Lol. It also builds boost nice and progressively.

Plenty of interest but still got it. ... Could work out a deal perhaps with brand new .82 ext gate kinugawa housing. I'm going away for a week on Sunday, so if you want it hurry up! Or wait a week. Either way...... Remember this is the proper 3076 not the gumby smaller turbine version. I saw one of the duds on Gumtree for silly money so thought I would confirm. Also, this is a seriously cool sounding turbo. Now that I am running a gt35 I can't belive how quiet the gt35 is. So to impress your mates with mad turbo noises, and decent power, buy this turbo!

There's conflicting info on the q45.

And copied from his "snipit" section Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP AFM Max Power at 5v Single RB25 AFM 225rwkw Single Z32 AFM 350rwkw Single Q45 AFM 300rwkw Twin RB26 AFMs 300rwkw Twin RB25 AFMs 450rwkw Twin Z32 AFMs 511rwkw Twin Q45 AFMs 600rwkw