Ben C34

What makes you sure it has fuel? Sounds to me like it doesn't. I would pull the distributor out and spin it by hand and listen for the injectors click. And obviously fuel pump.

Except rs has 12mm bolt holes for front calipers. Not a problem as you can make new press in inserts for the calipers, or the dodgy option is to drill out the holes in the struts.

Paddle shifter are a bit of a gimmick.

Yeah. Few more pages till this is sorted..... At least you can enjoy a coke.

If that's a genuine g35 you could (should) sell it and buy a hypergear turbo.

If your engine explodes let us know

Could it be the cooler denser air is tripping the afm max voltage?

Read the guides on here.

Dunno...

Autos have a ignition lock thing attached to the shifter.

Was your car an auto?

Ecu's alter ignition timing to control the idle as it is quicker to react than opening a solenoid and waiting for the air to be sucked into the engine ( obviously also use that method)

Have you ever rebuilt an auto before? It's a big job! Contact mv automatics or keas.

Cmon Ron. Hurry up and get your timing right so you can go back to not fixing the bov return.

Monitor Mode: The Commander can display up to 10 parameters of data in real time. Monitor Mode can display: Engine RPM Ignition Timing Vehicle Speed Air Flow Voltage (Pressure Sensor Voltage) Injector Duty Cycle Boost Knocking Level Battery Voltage Intake Air Temp Water Temp

Have you tried looking at the monitor function. I'm sure it monitors timing.

Definitely possible to have a boost leak. Pressure test to rule it out. Seeing as it happened after oiling perhaps that is the reaso though. Chuck a stock one back in. They work.

I'm sure I've already mentioned it you have to set it to what the timing the power fc is putting out. It's in the monitor settings somewhere. As written in the link I gave you..

I would call the tightness reasonably firm. Certainly not white knuckle type stuff. Looser isn't going to be as much of a problem as too tight.

No a torque wrench isn't necessary. No one that knows what they are doing would use one on plugs. Having said that seeing as you have had to read are guide on how to replace plugs, perhaps you should use one to ensure you don't do them up too tight.

As the engine wears the clearances get larger. To maintain decent oil pressure a thicker oil would be required. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? How is the oil pressure now? If it's fine jeep using whatever you are using.

I would go 10 40. Your engine is old.

Wow.

That modified cluster is a bit crusty with the 2 holes still in the clear cover. Unique mods for an r34 usually suck. That's why they are unique mods. Pretty much all of the good ideas have been done....

From what I understand it does it by pulsing a solenoid to bleed off pressure. It doesn't monitor what the actual pressure is, so its just a set duty cycle thing. You can add add larger resistor into the solenoid wiring so it bleeds less pressure off by not allowing the solenoid to open fully. At full throttle it's full line pressure so it just adds pressure for part throttle stuff. I did it as I run an rb2530 so make more torque with less throttle openings than the stock trans ecu would be expecting.