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Ben C34

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Everything posted by Ben C34

  1. The only time away bars are under tension is when one wheel is higher it lower than the other. So whether you lift it on a hoist or use ramps makes no difference when installing.
  2. Ok. Switches.
  3. Buy a multimeter. Cheap ones are a cheap . Can't do any work without one, and straight away you should be able to figure it out. How can we possibly know what crazy stuff the previous owner did?
  4. Hi As per title, never used due to change of plans. Only recently purchased. Complete with Vband flange and gaskets. Located Fairview park Sa $180 delivered. Ben
  5. So did it ever run nicely with the atmo bov? That's very likely the problem, and at the least is part of the problem.
  6. It doesn't take long correct, but why stuff around and do it all twice when you could just do it all at the same time. A water pump is cheap. It's not like they are hundreds of dollars.
  7. Also as the factory trans computer is staying in place shifts are still reasonably nice at light throttle due to the trans computer reducing line pressure. It's only when you go full manual and run full pressure the whole time that shifts become very harsh all the time.
  8. That's right, there's no need to upgrade the converter if you don't want to. Where are you getting the shift kit from? You realise the r34 trans is different to the R33 trans?
  9. Things getting stiff and sticky is pretty normal for any old car. Might pay to use something other than wd 40 fpr longer lasting results. Wd40 washes away whatever grease is left then dries up pretty quick, silicon spray or dry glide would be a longer lasting alternative.
  10. Have you seen the power fc faq? Google "power fc faq" and see how you go.
  11. Ask the trans place that's doing it? They will know how hard it will shift. Stage 3 doesn't mean much . Get a bigger trans cooler.
  12. Fuel pump priming?
  13. Flames! There are better things to strive for with your car. Bee-r is shit. Are flames really worth potentially killing your engine?
  14. Like I said, you have to take the timing belt off to replace it. It's not exactly a fun job. Like piggas said they don't cost much, so why wouldn't you do it at the same time as the belt?
  15. No . But if you don't want to have to pull the timing belt off at a later date do it now. Also do the camshaft seals.
  16. That's good. What about the oil restrictors and the bush bearing turbo? That's a bad combo. And are you sure your boost control lines are plumbed correctly, or don't care cos car goes now
  17. Not really worth the trouble. Even with the boost controller hooked up wrong it will still make boost. It can't swing the wastegate open magically somehow. Might as well show the photos so when you bolt your next turbo on you have correct boost control
  18. My take is that they do it so someone messing with the car can only retard the timing, and not screw things up by advancing it at all.
  19. Doesn't matter. Check your turbo. I'm with zebra. Dead turbo.
  20. Mine is auto. Not sure why you think that would matter.
  21. That's not true at all. As in previous post I should add I was still running stock exhaust and the car boosted fine with a 3071. Obviously I didn't hammer the car, but it definitely worked and definitely made boost. Turbo went on first as I had and cess to a mates hoist at the time which made it heaps easier to do it t then.
  22. It should work but not ideally. Should still boost. I put on a garret 3071 and drove it for two weeks (gently) before i had time to tune it. Even a little boosting, but obviously taking it easy. Unless the wastegate flap somehow came off the actuator arm i would be worried the Turbo is dead. I would also be worried it's not getting enough oil.
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