Ben C34

Have you checked the shaft spin s freely by removing the intake pipe by hand? It is not really a high quality turbo so the is a chance it Is a dud. Edit.. It's scary they say you can use stock oil feed line. Bush bearing turbos need more oil flow, as the ball bearing turbos have a restrictors in the stock oil feed line, so it is very likely the turbo is not getting enough oil flow.

http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#40a Sounds like you have it sussed , except that you have your cas set to 20 when the power fc thinks it's at 15. Which is a critical problem.

The best way in my opinion is remove all spark plugs and crank it over. That removes the load put on the bearings from the compression strokes. But don't stress too much about it.

Isn't it a lot easier to just do as GTSBoy suggested and tighten them up more and then pump some grease into them rather than worrying about it? Then you know that it is done right. Does your mate have any idea what he was doing? Why do you doubt him?

That field sticker probably means it is a chipped ecu by field.

Calm down champ. Read back over what I have written, if you have the time. This thread is really interesting and gets funnier as it goes on. Any moment now you are likely to pop your engine.. You say you want to learn about your car and buy tools etc, but won't buy a wideband and datalog it which is mandatory if you want to actually achieve anything rather than just taking wild guesses. Remember the part where I said if your afm is dodgy your car is tuned for it? Do you get what I mean by that? If you did actually try someone else's afm you could very well kill your engine if not monitoring afr's. Anyway man, keep this thread alive. Its interesting to See how long untill you either fix the actual issue or kill the engine.

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

Seriously? Do you not get it yet? What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that. No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice . This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....

Quick shifters hammer synchros.

I can't believe you haven't specified in that sentence s what timing the power fc was displaying! (Actually I can believe it)

His car is na, so 5 are fine as there's no boost to raise!

Keep in mind npc make heaps of different clutches. Just cos someone's npc clutch holds heaps of power doesn't mean yours will, especially if it's an organic plate .

Ask yavus?

What? It's not a manual. It's an auto.

Well so long as you are having fun with what you are doing that's all that matters. Keep in mind by cranking in heaps of extra timing your risking popping your engine , which would cost more than getting someone to fix your current problem. I'm sure your tuner would freak out if you told him you added 6 degrees to the map and messed with the cas. And by the way, didn't you cause the power loss by messing with the cas?

Are front and rear tyres the same rolling diameter? That will cause issues with traction control of they aren't. I already told you about snow mode, it takes off in second gear. And it has traction control. What more do you want to know?

At some point you need to make a call and take it somewhere to get it sorted. If all of this is going over your head just save the hassle and pay someone. If you don't know what a dial indicator or dead stop (also called piston stop) is, Google it! Google how to check tdc. It's not hard.

To properly check tdc you need a dead stop in the plug hole, or a dial indicator with a long plunger. Looking at it isn't good enough. Does the PFC display what timing it is running? You should look at it , and if says 20 set cas to read 20 etc...

Keep in mind the factory knock sensors are shit, and old. I certainly wouldn't trust it. You have your doubts about the afm and cas being old and dodgy, so why are you happy to trust the knock sensor? So going back to the start of all this it seems you caused the timing issue because of taking off the cas. The car will still have the initial bogging on shifts due to the very likely reverberation and bov return issue. You still need to get that fixed. You have done so much worrying, time wasting and random stuff it's crazy. Yavus agreed it was jumping around the map, the only way it can do that is reverberation. The afm can't be dodgy like that and the cas also be can't cause that (It has nothing to with loaf) Also, something to consider, if the afm was dodgy your car was tuned for it! Meaning if you replace it with one that functions differently your car will not be tuned correctly and will run shit.... Fix your bov return.

For reference I paid nothing for one from a wrecker. So don't go paying too much!

Maybe. Depends how interchangeable they are. Have you looked at and compared the pinouts on the ecus or just plugged it in and hoped for the best?

You've you got the speedo hooked up to the ecu? If it doesn't get a speed signal it will cut as you have described. And what ecu are you using? I hope it's the 25 ecu.....

No way will they get the comp he's after.

And being retarded as you found it will increase fuel consumption. Disconnecting the tps is the correct way for the stock ecu. Is it the correct way for a power fc?

And what extra fuel? You don't have a wideband so stop guessing.