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Ben C34

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Everything posted by Ben C34

  1. http://amayama.com/search/?q=4034205u20 Like that?
  2. It's your bolt. If you don't like it and don't want to use it get another one. Your mind won't be changed by anyone's comments and you won't sleep well untill you get a new bolt.
  3. Saying "relief valve modified" does sound alot fancier than two washers under the spring !
  4. Name calling doesn't void an argument. Getting away with something is very different to doing something correctly.
  5. Ideally you would have a functioning 02 sensor working woth a correctly tuned ecu. You can get by without an O2 sensor though if need be.
  6. Thread is progressing nicely.
  7. There are 2 temp sensors. One for the gauge and on e for the ecu. The gauge one will make no difference at all. The ecu uses the sensor to richen up the mixtures, sort of like putting on the choke. If it is faulty it would cause starting issues when cold. They are pretty cheap but also easy to check. You need a multimeter and measure it's resistance at known temperatures. Compare against specs, Google should help there.
  8. He has already changed ecu once for no gain (really it went backwards) all for the sake of not modifying the bov return A map based ecu will fix it for good though!
  9. Oh ok. Perhaps the coolant temp sensor is a bit suss. Otherwise I would check new plugs in and see what happens.
  10. It's all in your head. That's my suggestion.
  11. I changed none of it. It will start and run fine as the afm does its thing . Obviously get on a dyno and get a tune, but I drove mine untuned for weeks before I could get on a dyno. For the e85 you will need to change the k factor. Refer nistune user guides etc. Shortly mat should be releasing an update to allow flex fuel along with an injection scaler. Which is better than using k as k changes other things.
  12. My bov return was on a similar angle and caused issues untill I changed it to approx 45 degree angle pointing straight at the compressor. This made a huge improvement. Afm's are very sensitive. The tuner talk is obviously going to happen, seeing as the car isn't running right and they can't see why or fix it. That would be extremely frustrating for Ron. For the record you have no idea if it has been tuned well , just the same as guys that are suggesting it could be the tunes fault don't know either. The high fuel consumption certainly suggests it's not an ideal tune in the cruise areas don't you think?
  13. How much difference does that make?
  14. Wow. So unlucky, but lucky you are ok. I hope it's all sorted with insurance. All the best
  15. No way!. You must have posted that pic in between me clicking quote or something. Very sneaky.
  16. Do you have a pic? The 6boost manifold positions the turbo different to stock doesn't it? Sort of like an hks cast one does?
  17. Surely by choosing the turbo and boost to run you have an idea of what it will make? Otherwise how did you choose the turbo and boost to run?
  18. I could very well be dreaming, but I'm sure from underneath I can easily see the whole turbine housing. Maybe there's more room in a rwd stagea. Or maybe I am retarded.
  19. New O2 sensor. Check for boost leaks.
  20. Ok. Maybe I am spazzing out, but how late on the housing could the gate be welded on? Now I know common sense says put it where everyone puts it, close to the inlet, but I don't want to! I would like for ultimate stealth Ness to weld the gate pretty much at the end of the scroll, so it is directly under the turbo and hidden. (Using the stock manifold) Is that too silly? The way I see it if the little internal gate flange can work pretty well, a less than ideal external gate would still work sort of good? I don't need to be able to run low boost Whatcha reckon?
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