Ben C34

Yes I get that. But the car is 4wd right? so you have a 4wd box which will defiintiely fit and work. It just has a hole that needs blocking. Thats the easiest option.

Personally I would just plug up the front drive shaft hole in the diff.

Just to clarify as this is an obviously confusing issue. One is a kit to fit your car, the other is a kit that won't fit your car. Different part numbers imply that they are actually different kits and the seller isn't just trying to look like they have heaps of different options to choose from. They do actually have different options to choose from. However choosing the kit that won't fit your car would be a silly. But you have that option should you choose to take it. As for the actual differences. If the core is the same then that would have to mean that the pipework is different.

Looking for leaks is not the same as pressure testing for leaks. You must pressure test.

Boost leak. Always boost leak. Every time. Most of the time.

Goes to show the whole turbo sizing mystery is a dark art filled with mystery The turbo is a very mysterious and powerful device ...and it's mystery is only exceeded by it's power.

My ghetto ramp method to get more height involves putting one ramp on the kerb. Driving up on it and bam. Car is higher. So long as you are happy to lie in the gutter (which I am)

If money is no issue buy a better car. If you don't understand the registration and even insurance issues then the conversion is not for you. That lost by Kinkstaah was perfect and summed it all up. So you can't let car go because it had coilovers? Or something more special? First root was in it? I really don't get why people get so attached to some cars. why not get attached to your first good car? Ring up the registration department and ask them what the deal is with a turbo conversion.

The plug is in the engine bay.... can't tenement exactly where du to beers.

Tail shaft lengths different?

Did it ever rub nicely ever?

Nice one. Hae many dollars?

I was a local place . Complete windscreens. Only one in sa I think. The fact the could do it so cheap really surprised me. So there is hope for you!

I had no problem getting one installed for 180 in adelaide. Obriens wanted over 400 I think.

Not hard. Not worth it. You also have to upgrade brakes and get it legally registered which makes it not worthwhile. Sell it. Buy a turbo car.

Connect to whatever you need. Brake is obviously the big one. Block off any if you don't use them.

If you were running 40 psi boost I don't think low load spray pattern would be a concern at all!

Thw dots on the pulleys only line up every second turn. The dots on the belt I'm not sure, I don't worry about them

Yep. Once you have lined up the marks they will always line up. I hope English is your second language!

Yep. Rotors. Could potentially have them machined if they are still thick enough.

With the solenoid the empty port would probably get cop attention. Perhaps just screw a fitting in to and run a hose off somewhere to disguise it. Acl make heat shielding material. Pretty easy to work with and gives great results.

I didn't say you are dumb. I said hammering a cold engine is dumb. I think it's a boost leak or dirty afm because they make the car have the symptoms you are suggesting I also couldn't be stuffed writing along response explaining my reasons initially. Just like you didn't bother to write a post that explains your problem and the car history fully.

That's so shit dude. Glad you are ok.

Like a wing for your wiper blade. To increase down force so your wider blades don't spin out on fast corners.

How do you figure is running lean? How do you know they are good coils? I doubt you get flames when it is lean. Advancing the spark makes it easier for the coil to ignite the mixture as the cylinder pressure is lower (when the coil sparks) but is being likely to cause detonation. I'm going to say bad coils. Boost leaks Setting timing using incorrect method. One or a combination of the 3.