Ben C34

You can rebuild It with non forged pistons! There's no rule that says you have to use forged pistons. ... As it is that bottom end would be worth nothing.

True. What's the head look like?

That's cylinder 4. 1 is the front of the car.

http://booztd3.powweb.com/Pictures/Tech/CAS_AEM/Cas_6.JPG That's a 26 disc. Does it look like the one one in your 30?

Can't you you ask microtech? Wouldn't microtech be able to supply a disc that would work in the rb26 cas, if needed?

Exactly what I thought. I mentioned I his other thread about the kits to check for head gasket leaks in the coolant. I would definitely do that first in this case.

The heater isn't there to help bleed the cooling system, it's to heat the car. Removing it and locking the lines won't are bleeding harder.

Any second hand engine or gearbox is going to be a gamble. I would check what they mean by reconditioned gearbox, because that seems pretty cheap. However no one wants the 20 box so that could be why. Of course you can reuse your current clutch. You just have to be happy to pull the box off to replace it later on. Most people replace the clutch while the box is off, depending on the condition of it. Before you get carried away I would want to be 100 percent sure it's the head gasket and not something silly. You can buy kits to check if the head gasket is blown. They work by detecting hydrocarbons in the coolant. You wouldn't want to pull it all out of lying to find out the previous owner put some weird shit I the radiator to fix a leaky water pump......

According to the guy tat previously did it, by using a drive shaft. As per photos on page 8 of this thread. Make me keen to cut mine open.

A tune.Nice car. Awesome color. Glws

You don't have to do anything. You could run no wastegate or make a crazy manifold and run one wastegate. But the sensible option would be two wastegate.

Either side of the bearings. It is extremely unlikely they were the same thickness.

The Crown wheel would be mesging with the pinion. The gap would have to be enormous for that to not happen. Did you put the shims back on the correct side?

Well if it's a noise from a brand new idler orv tensioner it would be a first, especially with a gates belt. So just to clarify I believe it's the belt.

Noise from gates timing belts are very common. I'd put money on its is the belt not the tensioner making the noise. Especially as he replaced the idler and tensioner.

And check the plug as 89CAL had said.

Can't you look up the price yourself?

Your cam choice doesn't seem very street friendly, so coupled with that turbo I would say it would be poor on the street.

I would ignore it.

Not that your info info is wrong. Keep in mind this yr read is 9 years old.

Haha! Woolworths. I forgot about the kiwis on here. Don't want to get them all excited!

Haha, I don't want the thread for myself. I have a 30 bottom end in my stagea. All the best with the build. I'm sure it will be great and hopefully all done nice and quick so you can hammer down to woolies!

Hi did they do when they reconditioned the afm? How long ago did you get it?

Just got good....

EXPLAIN YOURSELF OP!