Ben C34

Oh. What's the history of the engine?

Oem is best. Gates racing can be noisy. It seems like you start at least a thread a day lately......

Which will increase overlap and drop compression. Why are you worried?

Personally I would much prefer a human to have been the previous owner. I don't think any animal or even mythical creature has what it takes to properly care for a car.

The way I read it is the op is at that duty cycle at 4000rpms which makes sense. Obviously as revs rise the injectors will quickly run out of squirter.

It's extremely likely your stock pump will fail as they are getting on and it's not worth risking an engine by using an an old pump. A walbro 255 will fit in easily and are cheap as. PM Scottynm35 on here for a price. What sort of timimg are you running? How are you monitoring knock?

Why are you wasting your time with a stock pump and injectors with that turbo? They will hold you back. Spend the money on a pump and injectors and get it dyno tuned before you kill the engine.

Awesome first post. Not suss at all.

That comp wheel looks totally f**ked!

That post is way too helpful and intelligent. I liked this thread more when it was about lumpy idles......

I'm sure I told you that you have to pressure test it. Untill you do that you really can't say you don't have boost leaks (which could easily cause the problem you are describing)

Have you checked for boost leaks yet?

It does *something* else in the ecu. But what exactly is hard to pinpoint or use to tune. In nistune there is a boost duty table. It affects that which in turn affects fuelling. There was a guy that accidently hooked his up to the inlet manifold so it was reading vacuum and the car ran super lean and was un driveable.

Ok.lets turn this this into a but hurt thread......

Option one. Ring nissan and ask them them for confirmation. Option Two. Pull restrictors and boost off into sunset like countless others before you. (Forever wondering if turbos will go bang) Option three. Open wallet. New turbos. Boost off into sunset.

Ok I will say iy again. The ecu runs the car correctly at 1 bar. If nissan didn't want that they would have made it dump in heaps of fuel and pull timing like they do on other ecu's when the boost is raised.

The size of of the surge tank will have have no impact on how much power the fuel system is capable of,it is only going to effect the surge resistance of it. Having said that I would say it will be fine. You can get away with no surge tank depending on fuel tank level. Can't wait to see this run soon!

You have answered your own question. The fact the ecu doesn't spaz out and cut the fun when the restrictions are removed goes to show nissan are cool with you pulling them out. If they didn't want to be able to run high boost they would have had the ecu cut when it senses too much airflow. As for whether your old turbos can handle it,that's another story.

Best bet get another stock afm. I'm surprised if even runs.

Ok. Cool. I just read exam and thought poor uni or high school student.

Oh. Almost forgot. Don't spend money on wheels seeing as you just bought the car. Wait for stuff to f**k up, then fix that with your money.

Congratulation on the purchase of your new car. I assume you managed that on your own without a thread spoon feeding you. Don't be in a rush. Problem solved.

Maybe we need a hectic idle but not caring about performance thread! And please. Don't stick cams in your bum.

That's funny. If this site only had people asking completely pointless incomplete questions like yours it would be a tragedy. You want to be spoon fed info rather than searching for yourself. I directed you to calais turbo. Com. That site is dedicated to rb30s and has more info on turboing them than here. To answer your question. Either manifold will work. Obviously. Which will impress people more? That's the real question. Glad to be of assistance. Please post skid vids once your car is turbo.