Ben C34

Well that's just wrong. Have you noticed the massive slots the cas bolts go through? Nissan don't give a shit about you or your car. They want to sell and service new cars,not help guys with old cars. You are wasting their time calling them,and that is reflected by their advice given to you. If you think you line it up that good by eye good luck to you. You are lucky you havn't pinged the engine to death yet. And finally, pull your head in bud, take a little time to show some respect to the people who are helping you out. The same question was asked multiple times and you didn't answer it, that's your fault for not mentioning you tried it (which I am assuming).

I take it you weren't checking your ignition timing each time you took off the cas? Otherwise you would have spotted the problem straight away.

As I wrote I'm also thinking you are actually running higher boost than you think. Turbos don't stuff up and make boost jump. Something else is the problem. Also , check for leaks in the pipework,loose clamps etc. The only way to be completely sure of no boost leaks is to pressure test,so I suggest you Google how to pressure test intercooler pipe work. A boost leak would make it run way too rich and would cause the ecu to cut as you have described.

Spanners. Cut down spanners. Gear wrench spanners. Socket sets with wobble extentions. 3/8 socket sets. Crow foot. That should get you started. Not that you should actually put on the manifold in the first place.

No, I don't think it's boost oscillation. And whatever you think boost oscillation is it isn't your problem. Wtf do you think that is?

So your car is 100 percent stock? It really sounds like when boost is too high on stock ecu. It could be coil packs as they crap out around this age of the car. Do the usual things, clean and inspect cool packs, reduce plug gap to .7 mm, clean afm. Do you have a boost gauge? I would check your waste gate lines are in good shape and not split which would cause higher boost.

So you have a misfire at the most common rpm range ever discussed on this site? Search and find your answer.... Or should we all guess randomly why your car is missing? Seriously, search first. If for some crazy reason you can't find the information ask the question then. And if you do need more help, specify what mods your car has. That will save people making wild guesses about the situation,and will show you are willing to take the time to help the people that are trying to help you. I'll add a wild guess in, for fun. You are running more than 10 psi on stock ecu.

So you have a misfire at the most common room range ever discussed on this site? Search and find your answer.... Or should we all guess randomly why your car is missing? Seriously, search first. If for some crazy reason you can't find the information ask the question then. And if you do need more help, specify what mods your car has. That will save people making wild guesses about the situation,and will show you are willing to take the time to help the people that are trying to help you. I'll add a wild guess in, for fun. You are running more than 10 psi on stock ecu.

Also, you haven't specified what car but I assume skyline. Have you Googled ls1 skyline? Heaps comes up.

My remark isn't sarcastic. It's a fact. Never the less, I'm sure that you will be able to do the conversion. The fact that people have done it before you is pretty much all of the info you need. It's obvious that you would need custom engine mounts, trans cross member and tailshaft. If the firewall or tunnel needs massaging you won't be able to do it off of dimensions anyway, you need to try and fit the engine and go from there.

Sell whole car then..... that would be the sensible option..

Actually nick for that power I would definitely use a decent pump and bump up base pressure. Heaps easier.

The spec of the engine has basically no bearing on fuel flow requirements, just pressure, fuel type and power goal. I assume 98 as it's in a patrol and you want to be able to fill up everywhere. 300hp isn't much, so 550 would do it very easily,but they are typically the old style with not as good spray pattern. Pm scottynm35 as he can get you xpurts for a great price. Another option could be decent pump, and bump base pressure up, and do it with stock injectors. I think stock at stock pressure will do 230kw at, so raise pressure would do 300hp no worries.

True. Replacing fuel filter is just general maintenence though, could never make a car run rich. Not all issues light up check engine light. The ecu isn't that smart....

Actually I doubt O2 sensor would make economy that bad, but would contribute.

Oxygen sensor? Dirty maf, if it has one.

No need to start multiple threads dude.... It would have made more sense to put it in the wanted section though.

Take coils out to let them dry. You will also see if they are wet. You don't need to replace the plugs just because the tops of them got wet.

I suppose some people get excited by an alloy intake on an na. Me, not so much...

Badgaz, a shit spray pattern is still a shit pattern. And compared to modern injectors the pattern of drilled injectors is terrible. Maybe you get away with it for around 700cc or less but bigger than that idle is way harder to get nice, and economy will suffer. If you compared to decent injectors you would realise straight away. You do however get an acceptable result with drilled injectors if you don't know any better though. They will make same power on a dyno and that seems to be the only thing people care about.

It's not hard or expensive to have a properly designed and made exhaust that flows well and is quiet all the time. But I suppose people like the gimmick that the varex is

Most injectors work fine on the dyno, the poor spray pattern makes idle harder to be smooth and bad economy.

My tip is bolt head onto untouched bottom end. If it's running good it's not worth the hassle rebuilding it. And use a neo head to get a decent comp ratio. And.... plate make no sense......

That ducks dude. Oil groove shouldn't be on the bottom. Tidy your room !