Ben C34

What I was saying (badly) is that an electronic controller is a waste in your case . A cheap bleed valve would have achieved the same result for less cash. Never the less,I'm glad it has made a decent improvement for you.

Some resistance. That's funny. Ignoring the correct and sensible advice is even funnier. Let us know when this case starts making noise. And I have to ask, with all this messing with the cas,did you set the timing correctly each time?

Yeah, but people are always happy to have more threads on the same shit. Spread all of the valuable information over multiple threads so the only way to get more information is to start another thread, thus the cycle continues.

Gap the plugs to. 7 you don't want to have to do it part way through the tune.

Clean it thouroghly. Look for source of leak. Not rocket science. If you still can't find it, sprinkle talcum powder around. Makes it heaps more obvious.

You need an exhaust manifold gasket. 6 boost or no 6 boost. Nissan is best, but pricey. Can get generic at sprints

Up to you. Both work

This thread rules!

There's a thread on a manual conversion. It's all the same as awd, except no transfer case or front tail shaft.

You need it all.

Fixing air leaks would lean out your tune and the pod would also change it slightly.

This thread is already hard enough to follow, but now with the sr20 results in thr mix it's super hard. Perhaps there should be a separate sr20 results thread.

I'd agree with just buying another one. But out of curiosity, what is wrong with yours?

Actually here it ishttp://dreamcarcity.com.au/show.php?id=13

Quick Google brings up a link, but funnily enough the page doesn't exist anymore Not definitive but certainly could be the dealer in question https://www.google.com/search?q=pv36+type+p+++42%2C150&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&oq=pv36+type+p+++42%2C150&gs_l=mobile-heirloom-serp.12...27204.32113.0.33336.9.9.0.0.0.0.342.2178.2j0j3j4.9.0....0...1c.1.34.mobile-heirloom-serp..9.0.0.zVsiPzxRYk0

They also rely on a perfect flat block. Any little imperfections will cause trouble.

Yes. Anything is possible. Whether it is worthwhile is another story.

4bidn1 has done it.

That closed loop protection comment is weird. The only closed loop function of the ecu is maintaining stoichiometric fuel ratio at cruise. Nothing else as a safeguard as you implied

Dude, I really recommend getting it fixed then selling it. Your only up for 300 so you say, then you can sell it for 3 times what you are asking easily I would be interested when it's fixed. Not now though

Thanks for pointing out the thread title I am aware of what he is using. I added that info so he is aware other manufacturers don't suggest setting the set point so close to the target as it can cause spiking. Have you ever set up a profec? I have found if the set gain is too close it will spike, using a profec. At the end of the day I don't care what he does, using it on a stock car is a waste of money.

So you checked the wiring for the maf, not the maf. What does that tell you? I don't know if that's right or not, but I am wondering why you checked it? The maf won't cause a high idle or any of the issues you have mentioned in this thread. Is there a reason you checked it or are you just doing whatever now? Fix all vacuum and boost leaks (pressure test the system). Check cam timing. Set timing to 15 using a plug lead not the loop. Also can you clarify a previous post. You mentioned advancing the timing fixed an oil pressure issue you had. What does that mean?

I'm 6ft3 so I specifically put the gyr seats in so I could fit in the car with a helmet on.

Welding some threaded bosses onto the radiator would be no problem at all for someone half competent with a tig welder. That's your only option, surely you wouldn't go the cable tie route would you?

Wow. Show over go.....