Ben C34

Don't buy f**ked car if you can't identify the fault and fix it yourself. At the very least you need to have an idea of the cost of fixing it. You wasted money on the oil change, so that was a bad start. What did tthink was wrong with iI when you bought it?

Subaru is hardly a good example. They burn oil like crazy at the best of times

Check you have the feed and return to the rail the correct way around

It won't be the seals contributing to the noise at all.

How much sealant did you put on them? A smear or a healthy amount....

I wouldn't be surprised if by "healthy amount of sealer" you put on way too much and that caused them to sit high

Bores look perfectly round and within tolerance. Deck is perfectly flat. Sarcasm over. By eye you can tell shit my guy, over internet even less. Get a second hand engine and slap it in

Yes you should weld it while it is out.

Welds haven't cracked apart so that's a good sign!

That is the worst attempt at a spam post trying to look genuine I have ever seen.

Well let's be realistic, if you got the answer that someone had done it before, you would be 99% likely to ask how did you do it, wouldn't you? Pretty sure no one has ever done it, because it hardly makes sense.

You have to get the words correct in sentences for them to make sense. That's not my opinion.

So it is completed easily via magic and high hopes, just do it then!

Have you ever done automotive wiring?

Going fast is fine, crashing is the problem with lack of airbag so don't do that. I hope your tune is absolutely spot on, if not you will find out after sustained full throttle like that

Wow you are special 🧠

those values are in relation to the color of the light, it wont impact heat etc. Higher number = whiter. Whiter ≠ better.

Is this real or just talking shit?

Or would you post a different model so it will throw people off track? End of the day any alarm is only as good as the install, and even the best alarm ever isn't that good anyway.

Regardless of aac the engine will always respond to throttle the same, not sure what you are on about here. No way will you notice a difference. I said when you touch the throttle you are onto the main timing map, doesn't matter if the air is all coming throigh the butterflies or some sneaking in via aac, the air is going into the engine and the spark is determined by main timing map... Idling at 12 is fine, so long as timing gun shows what ecu thinks all is good and nothing needs changing. No one gives a shit about rbb26 idle fuel economy.

Don't worry about idling at 12 making it feel sluggish, as soon as you touch the throttle you are on the main timing map. Seems like a bit of confusion here, the cam trigger is just for the ecu to know what stroke the engine is on, its the crank trigger that is used for engine position. Mbt is that timing value that creates the most engine torque. No one ever sets the car to idle at Mbt so not sure why it was mentioned.

I've lost all faith in your mechanical abilities. I'm out

So that's going to be commanding 22 %, change the first number to 0 and all good, then adjust the axis values to more sensible values

Have you setup and tuned the ecu at all?

Buy a wideband.