Ben C34

That appears to be abnormally high, but might not be depending on how much fuel you put in the tank. To be more meaningful it should be litres per hundred kilometers. I would recommend replacing the O2 sensor on any old car as they all stop working. Also checking the resistance of the ecu temp sensor (should be able to find that info online) or with a consult cable if you happen to have one checking what temperature the ecu thinks the engine is at when at operating temperature. I would chuck some new plugs in it for the sake of it and check the timing is set correctly. So it is non turbo?

And funnily enough all the other letters mean something also. But no one cares....

6 is heat range.

11 means 1.1 gap incase anyone is wondering.

91 octane equals ultimate fail. It would be pinging like mad,surprised it's not dead. Saving a few bucks filling up your tank will cost you an engine. Your choice,I hope it's not already rooted.

Sounds wrong. But why speculate? Just pull out the plug and look at it.

Have you checked fuel pressure? Why do you think it's the ecu? That would be my last thing to swap. What do you mean sounds like it wants to start? It fires or just cranks fast? Is there spark when you remove a coil? Seems like you are just taking a fairly random approach to this, and I recommend you pay someone who knows what they are doing as it will cost you less in the long run. Why did the guy sell it?

Still not that easy.....

It's not piggy back ecu. And it's not many people's first choice of ecu (or at all) And no matter what ecu you decide on its down to the tuner to give you a nice tune.

It's not going to be that easy,but it might work. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

It's pretty much in the middle at the back of the low bit. Have you been doing jumps?

Seriously caps lock? And another what oil to use thread.....

The only other time I have heard of a 34 ecu in a stage a was in a thread in forced induction. A guy from the UK had it done, and the trans wouldn't shift properly. And heaps of power was missing" I can't remember exactly but the title had something to do with t2 turbo,as apparently that's what his tuner fitted.... Anyway I'm predicting this will be way harder than you think. 4bidn1 has done a neo conversion so would know a thing or two about the neo Ecu's hidden traps.

Like any auto. It's not car specific http://m.wikihow.com/Check-and-Add-Fluid-to-Your-Automatic-Transmission

I'm in adelaide so can't help, but have to lol at selling seats then having none! I'm sure someone will be able to help.

That's interesting,I have read that oval works best. I suppose an oval would work over a wider frequency range due to the difference in thickness, whereas a round one would be likely to be more efficient at silencing a narrower frequency range.

Factory bov has a hole in it.that is probably what you heard leaking. You can plug it up with a grub screw, but it can make the transition onto boost not as nice. Maybe plug it for the test and test drive, then remove once all good.

I'll add my bit. I wouldn't use synthetic until it is run in,it's really important to bed the rings in. Cut open oil filter on first change and inspect it.

I do. But Never used it on coils to inspect if they are faulty. I wouldn't think it would be easy to do. And it wouldn't show up if the coil is arcing out the side through a small crack or something.

Heat it up with an oxy. You are lucky you didn't snap it using the puller that pulls on the back.

Assuming the car was a bargain you might as well save yourself the hassle and get it to a mechanic to sort it out.

A humming sound is hardly confirmation the engine is receiving fuel.

More cum. Until it's totally covered and one big stain. That won't be obvious at all.

It is definitely reminder. The last bit says please.

It will affect your tune very slightly. It has to. Why do you want to bump it up? What pressure was it tuned at?