Ben C34

Wow, that rhymed

Anything you do to your car, this is true. Quick cheap reliable. pick 2.

Do an rb25detttt . Yes quad turbo it. Once you figure out how to Plumb up one, the rest will come easy. Use 4 stock turbos to keep budget down.

oil thread. its huge. Everyone says something different. There is no rule.

The pumps are the same so not going to explode if mounted internally. It's the pickup area that's different. the 040 is open and the 044 has a barb. you can drop an o44 intank no worries but not using a sock is asking for trouble.

Engine will explode

Google will give you a much faster answer.

That was already suggested.

That's ok. It is best to have it closer to the outlet of the turbo, but that wouldn't be your problem.

Coolant won't be the problem. They are only water cooled to aid in shutdown, to cool the turbo quicker and not create carbon deposits due to cooking the oil. To test flow of oil pull off drain and run car, obviously catch oil in a bucket run car for period of time and measure oil in bucket, use maths to calc flow.

The guide not being there is the problem. You are heaps lucky it didn't actually come off.

Google image search.

Get ready for thread lock! beli3ve it or not, the info exists and yiu can make heaps more power on stock internals.

That's not the thermostat. It's the ecu's temp sensor. Someone seems to have added the resistor to trick the ecu into thinking the engine temp is different therefore running a different mixture. I would pull it out and plug it in like it should be, as thats not an appropriate way to "tune" a car.

time for a new mechanic The ecu doesn't have to wonder if the ignition is on or not, is connected to the ignition.

The comp ratio is swept vs unswept volume. Very simple. It gets much more difficult once the engine is spinng, as now the cam timing, condition of the valves and ring seals and head gasket play a part, along with volumetric efficiency, temperature etc. To figure out an unknown engines comp ratio from a comp test is never going to be accurate. Cam timing plays a huge role. If you are buying a built engine ask for the actual figures. If you are happy to assume its a high comp ratio motor based on that test, (which changed a fair bit once you asked for confirmation) by all means buy it.

That link shows what I am trying to say. That the trigger voltage isnt constantly applied, its only applied for the dwell time (approx 3ms) to charge the coil the the coil sparks when released. Hence the need to use a scope when running. I havent checked, but if with engine off and ignition on if you are getting trigger voltage to the coils that would be a bad thing and cook them, as they are charging for way too long.

Spray the nuts and bolts with a penetrating lube like penetr8 or penetrene or something first to save heaps of hassle.

I get that. But the coil is only charged for a limited time (the dwell) How is that achieved ?

The new coil benifit is they work properly. Aside fron that there is no extra gain.

Glad you got your answer! But what changes when you change the dwell ? Its my understanding, and i could be wrong, that the coil sparks when the trigger voltage is removed, surely what changes is how long the trigger current is applied for before being removed.

Whip one out. youre more than half way there!

Definite not yellow jackets. Maybe oem.

Need more info? Ecu? has it been tuned at all? (I would hope so but gotta ask!)

Nothing happens. Life continues as per normal. And I assume you mean coil cover?