Ben C34

Imperial sucks

it is still available guys. I spazzed out and it isnt suitable for my needs. Sorry about that.

No worries. 10psi per 1000rpm the a guide.

sold to me

You don't need sleeves. It's the dowels that align the head to the block, not the bolts or studs.

there is at least one thread on here with a block with the same issue, I think he was in the usa, cos if you are in oz the obvious thing to do would have been get another block.

Need more info, and timing can't seem fine, just looking at the cas doesnt cut it, get a timing light and check it out correctly. Non specific rebuild unknown turbos etc mean random people on the net wont know your problem.

Yellow jacket do sell just the boots. I am reasonably sure they would fit your coils, but wether it is worth it or not I don't know.

The other difference on the blocks is where the Idler bolts on. You want to use a block with the oil feed plugged ready to use and the Idler location machined and tapped. Perhaps people call it a series2 block as the series 2 vl probably has the changes on the block, so not so much the block is series 2 but that it come feom a series 2 car.

Also there are plenty of rb25s making around 400kw using rb25 studs so dont worry about it being a weak link.

Read the post by rips a few up. I wouldn't worry at all about using rb25 head studs.

as it is a series one block I don't think you have a turbo oil feed plug there? I assume you could drill into the gallery and tap it but I wouldn't do that now as it's assembled. I would tee piece off oil pressure valve.

So why didn't you take a photo of that area, and ask the question directly? Anyway, I guessed it! points to me. ... Like I said the are ways around it. seeing as engine is assembled machining it might be a little difficult but still an option, the other is to make a solid bracket to hold Idler or go nizpro style and use idler and tensioner above water pump. That would be the easiest but finding a correct belt would become the problem.

and they match the coils which is handy!

What's with the fancy Blue camshaft seals?

Can't really see from the pics but are you worried about where the second idler needs to go (exhaust cam side)? It does look like you don't have the machined spot but there are ways around it.

Lots of short trips......

that's what I would have said.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/299828-stock-rb25-tb-and-turbo-inlet-size/

cant remember off top if my head, but have seen the answer to your question on here in the last few months.

cmon guys be helpful. There is hardly any info on this site about what turbos to use.

well the oil cant be just disappearing! if that was a leak you would see it easily. don't worry about it.

If it's not leaking out you don't have a leak! It would be getting burnt. Keep topping it up and thrashing the car. Also stock nissan oil pressure gauges aren't accurate so I wouldn't care what it says, if you do care get a decent oil pressure gauge.

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

The obvious thought is that if you can't afford the engine, you definitely can't afford to modify it......