Ben C34

Can also add that the whiteline rear swaybar does fit, but you need to slot out the u brackets a bit and make some spacers (about 15mm per side) to straigten up the links as the rs rear end is wider for some reason. You can get by without the spacers, but the links are on a crazy angle and I wouldn't recommend it.

stock rb25 bovs also have a small hole for some reason. It leaks when you pressure test the system, but I can't see how the tiny hole would have an impact on the amount of air the engine uses when under high boost.

Ive always wondered what's the point of a magnet on the filter out drain plug. I understand it's beneficial on a motorbike that shares engine and gear box oil, but in a car engine what is it going to pick up? The only things I can think of are parts of the oil pump or camshaft, both would be catastrophic anyway so it's not like the magnet solves that issue. Just curious, are you running the stock heat exchanger thing?

another stock One would spool just as fast and bolt straight on. guys always sell stock turbos on here, saw an op6 neo turbo for 200 recently that's a bargain.

nah man, its not a brand, just heqps weird to have an extra pressure regulator just sitting there!

Haha, you have a rogue fuel pressure reg! That's strange they just left it there.

Just adding you the metric thing, thhere isn't just one fine option in metric, there's quite a few. If the pitch isn't specified it is always coarse. If it is a fine thread the pitch would be specified.

m6x1. There is no m6x1.5

Electronic controller is definitely better. You can set the gate pressure (or whatever other brands call it) to wait until a certain psi is reached before allowing any signal to wastegate, which is what the ball and spring totally guesses . This is what you want for maximum spooling. You can set them up to run different boost curves, different per gear etc. Also take the place of a boost gauge. and yes, they are fail safe, so if they stuff up you will be back on gate pressure.

Here's a pic that shows the passenger side strut, also how I mounted my ls coils.

2wd front is entirely different. It is mcpherson strut, strut towers also look different.

Full points awarded for ditching atmo bov!

I would reuse a genuine gasket. That is not a genuine one, genuine is coated metal. As said, get some gasket paper and make one.

Just drive it. It won't explode.

Why search when you can ask a question then wait ages for someone to maybe respond?

That's the thing, are the gears/pump reliable?

No damage to worry about. I know in sa they check you have a working heater blowing hot air on the windscreen if your car gets defected.

That looks sweet!

Another RS S2 owner signing in. All I can add is that an RB30 will drop straight in with no drilling of mounts using stock manifold. Cant fit the strut brace on without spacing it up, or perhaps a non traction control throttle body would give a little more clearance.

You never know

You can't fine tune cam timing using a timing light.

Ahhh, pull of the return line! Now I get it! spazzed out a bit

as mentioned before stock or correct wiring won't let that happen. The pump only primes for a few seconds then turns off as a safety feature. A hard wired pump that's always on with ignition isn't safe in the event of a crash.

I think they are the procams . Good luck with the sale.

Its interesting they claim you dont need a crank collar with them. I wonder how they came to that conclusion? Im sure there a heaps of guys that have killed oil pumps due to high revs would disagree with them. Unless they have somehow moved to gears back to allow more engagement onto the crank, but I didnt think that was possible.