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Ben C34

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Everything posted by Ben C34

  1. Its interesting they claim you dont need a crank collar with them. I wonder how they came to that conclusion? Im sure there a heaps of guys that have killed oil pumps due to high revs would disagree with them. Unless they have somehow moved to gears back to allow more engagement onto the crank, but I didnt think that was possible.
  2. Ask your pop about making one, he should be able to.
  3. That's a massive no on the t2 flange mate. A quick Google search would confirm that quicker than posting a question. Any fabrication place could knock one up for you easy
  4. Yep, that's why he made that comment.
  5. That happened to a mate with a Gemini years ago, he accidently connected some plugs on the gear box wrong. Check that out
  6. Theres one at the front and one at the back of the inlet manifold. The one at the back is part of the alluminium casting, the front one is part of some hard pipework .(the manifold you mentioned) and just noticed it was mentioned a few posts ago
  7. Also sounds right to me. When the pump primes it wouldn't take half a second to fill the line up again.
  8. So it is a coolant leak! Only a few drops stinks out the car but you won't notice the level drop for a long time.
  9. Also it could still be a coolant leak. a few drops makes a barely noticeable difference to the rad level, but is heaps obvious when dropping into the car that something is leaking.
  10. ac systems have a pressure sensor, so if there is no gas in the system it won't engage the compressor and damage it. Are you sure it's refrigerant, it might just be condensation due to the drain being blocked. The refrigerant is a gas that dissipates, the lube oil is what would drip out, so is that liquid oily or watery?
  11. it says in first post 12 grand
  12. Mysterious. call me crazy, but what happens if you flick the switch?
  13. Isn't that the one that goes around the back of the head to cool the turbo. Had a90 degree rubber bend then to hard line.
  14. After the hose blew off the car would have been running crazy rich, so perhaps all the carbon and richness is leftover from that. If it was my car I would take out for a thrash and see what happens, I think it would clear itself. whether you do that or not is up to you
  15. spazzed out there. dump flange would be about 12 thick so you would want a 25 or 30 long bolt.
  16. Cos you aren't running an exhaust, those 2 bolts would hold the dump on good enough, but for reference they are M8. 40 long would do it. (standard pitch, 1.25)
  17. So why did nissan mount it where they did? They could have put it heaps closer to the inlet pipe that its plumbed back to, and eliminated the metal pipework on the return side. They have gone to the extra trouble of mounting it as close to the throttle for a reason.
  18. Surely you could manage some better photos than that, makes it pretty hard with those
  19. True. There is No stock air temp sensor, so you need to add one.
  20. I always crack the nut by cranking it over. It only takes a split second to do it, just make sure the brake bar is suitable. My car is an auto so the put it in gear thing won't work.
  21. And by the way, all water pumps 'seem fine' until they leak.
  22. Wow! That's the first time I've seen that. I would be hesitant to go back there. It's really worth replacing the water pump, idler, Tensioner and cam seals when it is all apart, especially when you are paying someone else to do it.
  23. That's a good point! I must have been flashing back to my vl turbo days
  24. The old bucket of bolts, that's no fun when you didn't put them in there, and not much better if you put them in there Don't you have a wrecker nearby? They would charge you stuff all then you know they are definitely the right bolts.
  25. That resistor sounds odd. More fuel is the last thing you want on an untuned rb ecu. I would suggest getting a proper tune done with a nistune board. That would yeild best bang for buck
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