Ben C34

What argument?

What are you trying to learn here? If the car is Idling too high ecu will pull timing, too low will add. I have learnt nothing from this thread, I am also not a professor.

Cmon man, my comment was hardly moral highground. Seems like thats how you read it because you expect that response. Also, no one is following you, this is a public forum, there is no secret corner for you to find to build up a thread filled with nonsense and have everyone agree with you. Not going to happen.

I have 2 kids, never thought I could somehow justify doing skids on the street as a responsible parenting technique. revolutionary!

What about people who have different hobbies/interests? Is it also up to the government to help them out, subsidise things and make it easier for them? Pretty sure the answer is no.....

Turn off headlights and air con for noticeable power gain!

They won't fail and cause an issue, but I would expect one to snap.

I'm out... that has way too much nonsense to continue. All the best man.

And you would typically retard the exhaust and advance the inlet for more power.

Slap you are missing some fundamental basics here. The ecu can't correct for the cas being set in the wrong position, like in your advancing the exhaust gear example, that's up to you to set the cas in the correct spot. The inlet cam jitter thing doesn't make sense. Flame front to turbine? What?

What ever the ecu is commanding is what should be seen on the light. As has been said. It's that simple.

Pics worked.

Hang on, have you connected the meter with one lead to positive and one to the knock sensor? Quick diagram please

Oh, so the voltage being displayed is via a cheap volt meter wired in? my suggestion, and I could be wrong and don't want to offend you, is that may be wired into the wrong pins. Don't take that as a negative or having a go, sometimes going back to the start / basics is what has to happen. The whole 2.4 volts thing has confused everyone except you, because you have seen it and did it. Everyone else's knowledge of a knock sensor doesn't match your experience, and that is why you are getting a bit cranky.. But a knock sensor is a simple thing, understood by many, that doesn't put out a voltage. So something is up, which has impacted this thread in a big way. Can you confirm what pins you connected to? Also, proper terms seriously matter, you can't just use different terminology that may be conflicting or not make sense then tell people to just accept it and move on.

A knock sensor is not a 5v sensor, nor is it powered. It creates its own signal. Thay could be where the confusion comes in.

A little bit of a knowledge is a dangerous thing.

How do you plan on doing that? Is there an Injector open time table?

Slap, the problem is what you have said doesn't make sense. How are you getting these knock voltage readings? The ecu doesn't adjust some kind of voltage to tune its own knock sensitivity. If you want some technical reading check out the nistune forum. That is where to find out how the skyline ecu works

The problem is the plumbing layout is so suitable for a front mount so going down the water air option to be different is going to cost more and not solve a packaging problem. While water to air can be a better overall option, it's your money, but I wouldn't do it.

*you're *wankiness

Top info. Real inside secrets.. Very useful to thread. Illuminati

What? In particular seeing as you ha and asked for fact sheets when people have pointed out what you have said is wrong, seeing as you read this "What I read is that it does this because it gets minimal knock counts and increases the Mic power by lowering the voltage resistance." can you start with where you read that from?

Wtf?