Tumic

Im in a big need of a RB30 crank. I am located in Sweden so it need to be shiped. Payment will be done trough paypal. Regards Jesse

RB30/26 CP Pistons 9:5:1 comp Spool I beam rods ACL bearings ARP main studs N1 oil pump with spool billet gears Davies Craig 115lph water pump Cometic 1.3mm head gasket Arp head studs Tomei poncams type B Bosch ev14 1500cc injectors Topmound mildsteel manifold Precision 6766BB V-band inlet housing A/R .82 4" downpipe 3.5" exhaust Running on E85 and 2 bar of boost.

RB30/26 CP Pistons 9:5:1 comp Spool I beam rods ACL bearings ARP main studs N1 oil pump with spool billet gears Davies Craig 115lph water pump Cometic 1.3mm head gasket Arp head studs Tomei poncams type B Bosch ev14 1500cc injectors Topmound mildsteel manifold Precision 6766BB V-band inlet housing A/R .82 4" downpipe 3.5" exhaust Running on E85 and 2 bar of boost.

RB30/26 CP Pistons 9:5:1 comp Spool I beam rods ACL bearings ARP main studs N1 oil pump with spool billet gears Davies Craig 115lph water pump Cometic 1.3mm head gasket Arp head studs Tomei poncams type B Bosch ev14 1500cc injectors Topmound mildsteel manifold Precision 6766BB V-band inlet housing A/R .82 4" downpipe 3.5" exhaust Running on E85 and 2 bar of boost.

Hehe, yeah it's pretty close to a competition car without a rollcage. But it passed the MOT last year so it's "street legal" I just think that straight cut vill be stronger. I dont know how many that have killed a OS giken gear set but i know that i would kill my self if i bought one for that amount of money and it went suicide on me..

OS giken is Helical cut and PPG is expensive as f**k here in Sweden. The car is not a competition car, more like a daily drifter so a 4 speed gear box is not an option.

Well now the swedish supplyer claima that PAR just raised their prices with 40-60% so he wont sell them any more and have removed them from his webshop. So now im back to square one again...

Yeah i have seen that you have had your fair share of problems with PAR. What was your main problem with the kit? braking the gears?

Hi, i have finnished a RB30/26 build now for my drift car that will se around 800-850whp. Im currently sitting on a stock gearbox and that wont last long with semi slicks tyres. So im looking for a uprated gear set for my 25 housing and decided to go for a straight cut. A company here in Sweden just started importing the PAR gear sets, i did some searching around SAU and found that it was not so much positive information to read about PAR engineering. But that was from about 08 to -12 then it goes quiet. Have PAR gotten their shit togeather or did just people stop buying their products? Here in Sweden it's like half the price for the PAR kit vs a PPG kit so i thought it was worth asking. So are they still shit and what was the problem back in the days when they failed? And do you guys know if anyone use them for drifting now days?

Before anyone chops my head off i just want to say that i have used the search function AND google. I have a few questions now directely aimed to the guys who have done it/uses it on their engines, not to the guys "who have heard a guy who did it once" First question: size of oil restrictors? I will be running a N1 pump with billet gears reving 7500-8000rpm. I have read that with a N1 pump you use 1mm restrictors and a block off at the 26 engine if you use it for circuit/drift. But as the 30 dont have oil squirters i wounder IF that makes any difference in choosing restrictor size?. Second question: drilling the oil return galleries in head and block? I have read that some recommend it and i saw that RIPZ dont, so how many of you have done it? Is it worth it or will it just cause more blowby to rise up that way and block the oil off as RIPZ claimed?

Neo head is so rare in Sweden so it's not an option for me, trying to put togeather the best setup i can with the parts i have in my garage.

Hi. I've been searching for the 25de oem piston specs so i can calculate the compression and see how much i must shim the head to get a bit better compression ratio. Does anyone have the oem specs? Would be nice to get the comp ratio up to around 12-13 (have E85 on every gas station in Sweden) But im affraid i will have to do custom pistons for that ratio?

Hi. I currently building and ordering some parts for my build and was looking for some thoughts about my plans about the engine spec. Bottom: *RB30 block 86.5mm *RB30 stock crank *CP 9:5:1 pistons 86.5mm *Spool H beam rods *Spool spline driven N1 oil pump *1.5mm restrictor and one block off *Ross harmonic balancer *ARP main bolts *N1 water pump Head: *RB26 head *260-ish cams, maybe poncams? *OEM intake *Light porting/clean up *ARP head bolts *1mm or 1.1mm head MLS gasket Fuel: *Injector dynamics id1300cc *Dual Bosch 044 pumps *AN8 lines Exhaust: *OEM manifolds *3" elbows *3" exhaust Turbo: *Twin garret gt2860rs A/R .86 EMS: *Link g4 extreme The car is a street car that is used for drifting, but have to be street legal so oem manifolds are a must and turbos that look oem on the outside. I want it to be as responsive as possible, reving it to 7500-8000rpm and running it on E85. Have anyone used a simular set up? I am a bit worried that the 2860rs will be small on the exhaust side or what do you guys think and is there something you would change in the setup? //Jesse Westerlund.

Okay, sad to hear that. Hopefully he will be back on track soon. I sent a mail to ERD and RIPS regarding this to, well see if i get any response.

The Dan stoped responding my PM:S and did not give away any info (i said i was willing to buy all the parts from elite racing but doing the machine work on the head myself du to de freight cost sending my head from Sweden to AU and back again.. But still on square one so if anyone have any Good input on cam choice etc i would be happy..