Trex

coolant temp sensor, afm, plugs. Tyres. The list goes on. But this has been covered about a million times, with the same results and replies. Don't boost it hard, stay under 3g rpm and youll get roughly 11/100 - 450-480k per 50L

2263. I'm dropping it off to someone with a stag on Sunday. sad to see it go but my back has thanked me for it.

Soo funny I forgot to laugh Stu cornall tuning services in qld is making them. Just sent him a msg on Facebook. If he doesn't reply, does someone else want to call him? I've been watching him from afar and following him from work and home. I KNOW he has been ignoring me!

If I had my time again I would have bought an Na s13 and then sold it 10yrs later in shit condition for twice as much. Was also offered a 4door 32 for 8g. I said nay because 4doors were gay.

^ date rape haha Trial Kennedy for some nostalgia.

80mm for standard Stagea shocks/springs. Similar/the same as 33 & 34 units. May give you something to think about tonight. But yours and coilovers will be shorter than this. I'd say 40mm may be adequate for a daily. But I'm not sure

Looks fine though dat front mat do? Really clean mate! I'm jelly.

I can't know* For future reference.

Too short a shock. You need something longer with longer springs. Shorter with shorter. 2cm would be pushing it I think. It's stupidly dangerous ATM, if you brake hard enough the rear may lift off the ground, I've seen it happen. I'll try and find the video of an is200 that has no travel, he hit a small bump while booting it on a freeway and lost control. It wasn't pretty. Edit: just saw you're an '03 member. I feel like I've been trolled.

Sucks doesn't it oliver.

That's my feeling too scotty. I've heard of soo many alloy rads shitting themselves. But on the other hand, so many cheap ones that haven't. Really, you're better off spending more and getting the standard auto radiator. The problem with the alloy ones is they don't come with the sensor input which is weird...

So it would be a case of trial and error while using a temp gauge and possibly fab up a thermostat to get it as close to the original as possible? Would there be an easier way? edit: probably stupid, probably better off staying with the standard radiator. But lets say for people wanting a 52mm etc how would you go about this? I'm not doing this, i just want to know.

Thread bump. If you were to use a manual radiator would a large transmission cooler work fine? Or would running 2 in series be better as you've gotten rid of the radiator cooling?

Just don't hit my mirror

Second hand one is a money back guarantee.... Could have just said buy a new one. Which I will be doing now.

Put some d1rs on 17x8 +25 and doing f+r pads on the w/e

f**k fort?

Thread delivers! Perfect offset for an auto stag! Should sit 1cm out from the guards.

What superben said. Connect the vacuum hose from the intercooler pipe (above the turbo) to the wastegate. (Gold/bronze thing in front of the turbo)

Do you accept western union? Your thread got deleted for a reason mate. Don't open a new one.

It really does sound like you need new bushes mate, if the car takes a while to settle from a corner or a bump? Creaking? This would be due to worn out bushes and shocks. If you can't afford all of them at once, just get upper and lower control arm bushes first, swaybar bushes are cheap. And then buy some solid strut tower bars front and rear and some sway bars front and rear and new shocks front and rear.

Rotary powered Stagea?... Please?

Saw this on stoc looks like a winner mate! Don't take this the wrong way, as I am genuinely interested. How do you know it's a genuine tommy?

Thanks for the help stock stag and pickles Sleek came over because I was too sick to work on the car. We tested tps, checked plugs etc etc. I called Jez and another friend and dales friend... Everyone pointed to the afm being the culprit, I've never heard of the afm doing this so I was skeptical. But sure enough dale took it for a run while it was cold and it ran fine on the cold map, then when things started to get hot it started to play up a lil. Hit it with some contact cleaner and I'll have to go for a drive this weekend. Also with the afm problem, we had a problem with the auto not wanting to manually engage 1st or 2nd or snow mode or reverse chime etc. we freaked out until we remembered the basics 'check the f**king fuses before you do anything else' sure enough new fuze and everything is now good. Should I buy a brand new one for $80-$120 comes with 12 months warranty. Or just another second hand for $20. I won't worry about re soldering. Because I had an afm that f**ked out and re soldered and didn't make a difference. Cliffs: I'm on the train killing time. Also got some new tyres. Calling the nsw tein distributor for the rear 345mm springs