Trex

So I've always hated this stuff, and never got it to work well. I did this about a month ago and I'm adding it now. I did my door/bumper protectors 4 months ago and noticed they're still blackish with no polish/wax marks showing through notbad.jpeg So I decided to do my mirrors/windscreen rubber/roof rails and the black strip. This stuff isn't a miracle stainer, but it does add some depth and colour back to the tired grey and polish ridden plastics/rubbers. To get the best results make sure it goes on evenly with the corner of a microfibre cloth so it doesn't streak and add atleast 3 coats, then polish off by hand with a microfibre cloth. For the roof rail flat thing, you know the thing that isn't quite plastic or rubber, but a weird fabric type thing...thing. I put it on quite thick and added 3 thick coats while really massaging it in, i then left it for 5 min then quickly buffed it. it will look wet and un even and pretty shit when you first do it, but after 10-15 min it should end up all one colour and looking a lot better than it did. DONT GET IT ON YOUR PAINT. if you get some on the paint stop what you're doing and wipe it off asap.

Click 'next' page, then at the end of the URL it will say /page-2. Then type random numbers and you'll get to the last page. It's the easiest way to get there. I also fourth it.

I have a book in english from the company in the first post.

I was talking to my friend about this last year and he has the same problem. He changed diff oil and was worried the diffs were on their way out. The handbook states that when the attessa button is turned on it will lock into 50:50. So if you have LSD's it would make sense they're shuddering. You will notice it more on wider lower profile tyres. How were you driving at the time it locked up steve? ie. full lock, straight, did it completely lock up? etc

Don't be too skeptical. I sometimes think the same thing, the theifs are tagging their mates and laughing.. BUT there has been plenty of cases where someone on facebook has followed a stolen car, and called the owner and police and it's been a happy ending story. I really hope you get the car back, 7 years is a long time to own a car and shows us that you love it and have looked after it.

welcome! Sounds like its coming along nicely I'm looking forward to seeing your build thread / how toos

Can't edit my previous post. I was going to suggest front brakes but you said they're fine. Have you checked the diff and transfer oil? Also do you have an awd button to lock it? Mine will shudder when it's turned on. Found this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391468-centre-diff-locking-and-binding-diffs-ay-low-speed/

I found it easier to get 2 12mm spanners and use the open end. You'll need to jack the car so all 4 wheels are off the ground, then just spin the shaft with your hand to get all 4 nuts and bolts. But when the fronts or rears start locking up it sounds like a transfer/diff/elec problem. What size tyres are on it? Are they evenly worn? Have you done an ecu fault read? I don't know much about the subject, but most people have problems when the rolling diameter is different.

What shifters work? Do you need a new valvebody? What is exactly involved? How does the stall converter react to it? After a manualised auto you can use any stand alone? etc etc... Obviously i don't know anything about autos besides the fact that mine is in good nick. I'm guessing the cost is around the 1-2g mark? Tried searching quite a lot and i couldn't find anything, and i don't want to waste MV's time by calling them.

I would never joke about something so serious. yes, please do leeroy. The best way to remove the oil in the intake would be the "connect 1 pipe from the catch can to the intake before the turbo. Connect the other pipe from the catch can to the pass side cam cover." Preferable a T piece in between the covers connecting line. If that makes sense? I just searched on google and found some of the stupidest setups i've ever seen, no wonder you were confused.

I was not expecting that... It's an unbelievable engine

Tell me more about these manualised autos

Just connect 1 pipe from the catch can to the intake before the turbo. Connect the other pipe from the catch can to a cam cover. Or get a T piece and put it inbetween the U hose that connects both cam covers together. I was kidding about the oil in the intake being bad, that's how these engines are setup. I'd be worried if you didn't have any oil in your intake with no catch can. Also look at re baffling your cam covers, that works too. You will always have oil in your plenum as it has a hose connecting to the drivers side cam cover. But you can manage the oil in your intake by putting a working catch can in. Or put another can can in so you run 2, one from your plenum to the drivers side cam cover and the other from the intake to the passenger side cam cover.

Hate to tell you mate, you're up for a new engine. Once you start getting oil in your intake it's all over. Or you could run one pipe to the cam cover and the other to the intake. Running both lines to the cam cover won't do anything. Google search catch can setups and why and how they work. It's amazing that something sucking can pull an object or liquid to that direction.

It will be interesting to see how they go. Nistune made one years ago but they had problems with it being too slow to tune properly.

That does not sound good

Yep. Worst. Train. Ride. Ever.

Call first dibs! Pm sent

Try tightening the screws on the cam covers with a long Philips head. Most of the time they're just loose. Or I have a full gasket set with the half moons you can have for $50

Thanks! I was looking at those Cree led. I'll buy some and see how they go. I have white dash globes ATM but they aren't bright enough

It's ok guys. This is my car and will easily make 700HP

I'm struggling to find some white parking and dash globes I've been looking in the 3800-5000k range and everything I've bought seems to be blue or yellow and every manufacturer is different.

Huh? I was talking about a spacer for the shock... To push it out further towards the end of the bolt. It's hard to tell from your first pic on what it is hitting

Run it hard made his own spacers to run wider rims. Seemed fine 2 years on and he drifted quite a lot. I personally wasn't too fond of the idea, but I have seen crazier shit in factory cars.

I was looking at the aem fic, but i kept reading that they cant tune throttle percentages, they can only tune at wot. I'm unsure how this works. Have they changed something?