Trex

So I've been doing some driving and changing/checking things. 1. Boost T is coming loose. I turned the T in 2 turns and the turbo spooled quicker, Had come half a turn loose again after 1 day so the turbo started to lag. The T must like a certain position because it eventually went back to where it was, 2 turns looser. 2. The auto is getting confused. Manually changing gears from 1 - 2 - D had a big improvement on getting passed the 3k flat spot. O/D and Power didn't have any affect on the flat spot. #2 would explain why it was happening on the standard 2 stage boost I can now feel the small missfire at 3k on 10psi. I'll change plugs,clean AFM, box oil and i should be good to go. Thanks for all your help everyone

For the S1 Stag Change coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor, Air filter, Fuel filter, Clean throttle body/plenum, Put air in tyres, check cat and mufflers, Check afm, Change oil, thermostat, coolent. spark plugs etc Just the usual maintenance, everything adds up to better fuel economy i believe. My old VS used to get 9/100 because i kept up the services and changed the things mentioned above. Also always run on 98, i found it to idle better and was smoother on gear changes. In the stag I'm getting 11-12/100 it used to be 14-16/100 it didn't really matter if i was on 5 or 12psi or how i drove. Still getting 11-12/100 since my last post

So do I spok to him again on Sunday and said they will be done this week.

I haven't read anything like that on here? Who cares? Scott's going in his 260, I'm in my slow rs4, there's also a datto ute

I'll be heading to the putty cruise on the 21st. Would be great if you guys could head along too.

I'll tag along

Doing more research, my 0v300 ecu will trigger r&r anything above the stock 5-6psi under 4500rpm which makes sense why it feels like a flat spot.(will hit 6psi stock) But doesn't make sense why I picked up very noticeable gains under 3000rpm. Or/And the exhaust has made a noticeable torque decrease while increasing the stock boost because it flows better. Either way I don't think I can fix the problem without a tune or trying a stock exhaust.

Could it be a vacuum leak? What should my vacuum boost be at idle? Or do I need to check and replace every vacuum hose in the system? (I have no idea where they all are)

Haha not my engine. Mine has 2 plugs coming off it. I'll check fuel pressure too.

Can't nistune my hitachi auto ecu wolverine

Thanks for the help guys, I'll be checking my TPS voltage this afternoon, I can't really check VCT, can I put it on stands and start it put it in drive then use the throttle from the engine to see if its clicking at 1500? Or is there an easier way? And I'll search how to check my CAS

Sorry there was a delay. The laser cutter got sick and couldn't finish, it's that time of the year. I got word today that they will be finished around Wednesday. I'll be sending them out the day I receive them. Sorry again guys, I know the antsy feeling. But I know you'll all be happy they will look and fit perfectly.

Not keen on burnouts, I would have bought a v8 if I did haha. I noticed it when I drove up a really steep hill in the wet and kept my foot down. It spun then lost power like it had TC. I then threw it into a corner and it did the same thing. I thought it might help diagnose my problem. I trust Jez, he knows his stuff and has dealt with a few friends cars. But I can't afford an adaptronic and a tune to fix my issue I was thinking it could be a tranny issue, the auto is in the ecu and never showed any codes, where's the solenoid for the auto?

How do I check the cas, igniter and resistor packs Duncan? I've read posts where ignition and fuel pump are mentioned quite a lot. But no one posts after they fix the issue. Jez also mentioned he removed my knock sensors and the only other fault was the afm which was changed also. I don't want to keep bugging him because I've done that enough

I don't hear any popping anywhere in the revs. Sorry should have said that. I took it to Jez who found a fault with the afm and did a leak test while it was on 10psi. I do believe him when he said it needs a tune to fix the issue but when I changed the boost to the stock 2 stage the same problems occurred. The stuff I changed needed doing anyway, just thought I should mention what I've already changed. Could it be VCT not working properly? Or possibly hitting r&r even on stock boost? The power loss while trying to do a burnout is weird as they don't have traction control? I need it fixed because keeping up with traffic can be a pain and I need to drop back gears and sometimes it will take off on me and is dangerous.

Thank you for the replies Kiwi buying 2 diffs is a little on the expensive side for me, I wanted to spend as little as possible. 4bidn1 that was my idea, I was just unsure if all LSD centers fit as the r200 has so many variants from early 240z to today. Are they all the same?

I always though 34gtr seats were legal? What makes them illegal?

Hey guys, so I've put up with the problem since I bought the car but after writing it out I see how f**ked up it really is and it can't be normal. My rs4 2.5T auto at light throttle it will rev to 3000rpm easily then stay there for a few seconds then go through the rest of the rev range slowly then reach 5000 and take off hard. Kind of like driving on flat ground then reaching 3000rpm up a steep hill and you reach the crest at 5000rpm I've tried stock boost and 10psi but it doesn't make a difference. I was told it's a tuning issue, and i do believe him but I'm sure they didn't drive like that from factory because my old commodore had heaps more power down low. an old 90's Camy beat me until I reached 5g I took the front drive shaft and the fuse and noticed If I do a burnout with no brake it will slide then take off slowly like it has traction controle. Even at speed and throwing it into a corner it will do this. I've been searching for months for answers and I'm now at my wits end. I've got a 3" from turbo to tail with split dump I've replaced o2, coolent temp, afm, plugs 1.0 & 0.8, coils.

I don't know much about these diffs, could someone help me? I want to be able to swap from awd to rwd when i like without worrying about blowing the front diff because of different ratios, so I'm looking at swapping the centre as i think it would be easier and cheaper than sourcing an LSD that's a direct swap.

^^ Good to see someone saved it

Seats in and im not too worried about suspension anymore, most of the boat feeling was me sliding on the leather, springs could be a little firmer on the front as it dips slightly on sharp corners but swaybars and a tight seat made a huge difference. I would recommend a seat as a first mod on any car. Actually it would be stupid to do any suspension mods without a good seat. you can feel everything. looking for an LSD for the rear only, the cheaper the better. I think the stagea uses an r200 diff? can i use the lsd centre and put it in my diff with my standard gears and axles etc? I've been searching all day but i can't find much. i think i need to keep my diff gears the same so i dont blow the front diff.

Perfect!

Put my fixed back seat in yesterday. Soo comfy, my suspension isn't as bad as I thought after not sliding around in the stock seat

How does it sound different?

Hey guys, everyone has paid they're getting bent and drilled, and I'll MSG you all once they've been sent. It shouldn't take long. Thanks for being patient everyone