Trex

gumtree has f&r in sa but it's silver

hit the dash above the cluster? tough love.

reading through a lot of drag posts on the rs4, i thought once they have a lot of power they rwd spin and it takes longer for awd to kick in? in the wet mine crab walks once the back steps sideways a lil.

must be the same 1 in no.150 performance imports mag.. What date was the cruise? Little did i know after reading this 15th anniversary stagea cruise story about 3 times, i would own a stagea a few weeks later

Hey, Selling my rims on eBay, still open to offers and trades on SAU 19's http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181132581274 16's http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181132712717?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 msg me on 0420945445

Could you post up what discrepancies you had found? I've got an 0v300 with an rb20 piggy back going for a tune next month and would like to give him all the pinout sheets I've found

get a tape measure, it's the easiest way to measure fitment. Put the tape measure on the outside lip of the rim and measure the distance horizontally. You will want 15mm as a minimum as the shock is so close. Then see if you need to lip your guards or use a thinner tyre. I'm not sure a shock spacer would work for koop, if his shocks are stock the bolt is already flush with the nut.

I have no idea what's right, but they're all fairly similar

I've got 2 pinout sheets. 1. http://www.kouki.co.uk/reference/nissan-wgc34-stagea-rb25det-automatic-ecu-pinouts 2. Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls

I've always wondered if those torque split controllers would work. It should work in a 32 but 33 & 34?

you know it copying your stag one mod at a time ha i think circuit, i've gotten sideways a few times and it's weird in an auto. wakfield is 3.5hrs away and eastern creek is 1 hour. EC it is ha

F&R swaybars, coolent temp sensor, o2 sensor, N/A grill, pod. Got springs friday too!

accepted and took my profile off private. i havent even worried about shielding my pod. the bonnet and shock tower are cool to touch. I met benny today, he has convinced me to go to the track, eastern creek seems like the cheapest!

anyone? Is this all that needs to light up? S1 awd auto I'd like to do a diagnostics check but i can't.

i sent you some pictures on instagram of mine with an n/a grill adam. I put a pod on with the snorkel, and the passenger side is actually a lot cooler now. These work really well.

some pictures and video would help a lot, put them up when you've got a chance. This is from adams thread, it may help you out. Have you ever looked at your Automatic Stagea and wondered why the rear wheels sit closer to the guard than the fronts? Well on the automatic versions the rear subframe is wider than the manual model Stagea. This can complicate things when trying to fit aftermarket wheels, and will force you to run spacers up front if you want to have similar fitment all round. There is a lot of information floating around on how wide the automatic subframe is compared to a manual version. So I was curious to know what it actually is. Above is the length of the Stagea rear subframe, and below is the new subframe length. The new subframe is 40mm shorter in total, which means it’s 20mm shorter each side. This evens out the track perfectly. Another thing that got me thinking was, what happens to the shock clearance when the shorter subframe has been installed? As you can see in the first image, shock clearance from the back of a OEM S14/R33 wheel (16×6.5 +40) is roughly 50mm. It’s safe to say that the shorter subframe has effected inner clearance in the same way, roughly 20mm has been lost from shock to rear wheel clearance. Although this was measured straight after the subframe swap, so I am unsure if there has been a change in camber. For those wondering what the limit on inner clearance is before your wheels make love to the shocks, I’d say 25-30mm is the lowest you could have. My old setup (18×10 +21) used to touch the shock on things like driveways. I then added a 5mm spacer and all was well. The subframe I used was out of an S14 Silvia, which is identical to the subframe found in a factory manual Stagea. If your Stagea has HICAS you could use an R33 Skyline rear subframe (or if you wanted to be clever, you could eliminate HICAS by using an S14 subframe, instead of running a lock bar). While I was at it, I made my subframe completely solid and installed some diff mounts I’ve had for a while (I did subframe risers while this subframe was in the Skyline). It would be a good idea to swap out the OEM bushes for something new if you do plan to do such a swap, how often do you pull apart a rear end of the car? Oh and if you’re worried about the half shafts or sway bar being too long to fit the shorter subframe, don’t be. All my OEM items fitted up fine. If the track difference on your Auto Stagea annoys you as much as it did me, this is the perfect way to rectify it.

Get the front too. You will notice the difference straight away.

awd cradle is 5cm wider then the rwd. hence no link angle. I don't know from personal experience, but Daleo is a whiteline seller http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=NISSAN&model=STAGEA&model_final=STAGEA+WC34+RWD%2FAWD&vehicle=1996-9%2F01

I've got 9.5" +17 it's about a finger gap away from the shock. It's touched a few times from me not being careful while going up/down steep driveways way too fast. but yours are +30 i thought you would be well and truly fine, how's the 15mm poke? Any pictures? Wouldn't adjustable coilovers make the problem worse as they're thicker?

judging from daleo's post the whiteline bar will fit your rwd perfectly with the links provided.

thats interesting, thanks for clearing it up

Sorry to spam your thread Bob.

What's open loop high load? I just found a thread where the o2 would cause flat spots in lower rpm on an rb25det. Here's a funny one: http://performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67158141.html or the coolant temp sensor was completely gone because the car has definitely changed a lot

Ricky, missfires are usually caused by plugs & coilpacks. also happy to be corrected on this. Mine wasn't accepting 10-11psi very well and would run slow till it got over 5500rpm. at 4-7psi it wasn't as noticeable because i didn't expect it to climb the revs very quick anyway. Changed o2 and water temp sensor, ran 11psi and it now climbs the revs freely and it doesn't slow down or speed up in revs. It drives like a normal car should. My guess was for peoples problems of not being able to run higher boost was a fuel and air problem caused by o2, water temp and AFM. I've read countless threads where people had the same problem as me, and not one had a changed the o2. They all talked about changing it, but always left with a SAFC or new AFM's. Most never fixed their problems. I think the standard computer is fine for small boost levels such as 10psi, and if you're having problems running that, it's not the computers fault, it's a sensors fault. At the end of the day in a 33 you're better off getting a z32 ecu and nistune, i don't think you need to touch the sensors, i think they tune with them.

if you have a computer that is getting the 100% correct signals and information it will always out perform one that is 'guessing' because of faulty sensors. The computer only has a few sensors that tell it how much fuel to put in and etc. If these are faulty you will never get a car running 100% right. Boost cut feels like someone has slammed on the brakes. R&R feels like big flat spots. Happy to be corrected, as I'm still learning, and no way a mechanic.