Trex

The reason why some ECU's work and some don't is faulty sensors, it has nothing to do with a computer that is 'special' or made in a certain year.

Thank you for the quick replies. I had my mechanic do them, they know their stuff so they would have done it correctly. I'm going to jack up a corner and see how the angle changes It's auto daleo, my mechanic and i thought the bar was about 5cm too short, that would explain why haha. I've saved your contact info because i wanted to change the F&R endlinks in a year or two.

The rear link looks like it's about to pop off, its the same on both sides. Is everyone else's the same?

How much do these usually go for?

Spotted a black 34 gt at cj's in LJ. Chris is the nicest mechanic I've ever met. Just dropped my silver stag off this afternoon.

My check engine light would never come on with the ACC on ON, but would come on while cranking then it would turn off once started. I thought this was normal until I tried to do a diagnostics check on my s1 stag via the consult plug. The light works because it comes on while cranking. I changed all of the blue globes to white to see what else wasn't showing up, this picture is what I'm left with. What other possibilities are there that the check engine light only comes on while cranking? And what other lights need to light up? It has me stumped

bump, does anyone know if the s1 and s2 bumpers are interchangeable? I want to keep the s1 headlights and grill

I have one of these, i could just get some made and cut? but the air deflector part would be costly...

How low was your vl? What's shocks were used? What condition? What were the spring rates? What other mods did you have? A friend had a vs with ssl with shortened Monroe gas all brand new and it was bouncy and would thump on large bumps. While I had an ef with 2" lowered lovells with shortened kyb shocks that were a package and that was very comfy yet firm and handled well. Bushes played a large roll in this, and rim/tyre size too. I'm far from an expert in suspension, but I believe the shocks need to match the springs for a good yet comfy ride. That's why I'm leaning towards kings as they're 0.2 heavier in the front and 0.7 heavier in the rear. The stagea is 200kg heavier than a 33gtst. And that's not 200kg of weight in just the rear, that would be in the front suspension/diff, electric seats, gearbox, rear glass, sound deadening. I would say the stagea is only 50-100kg heavier in the rear than a 33gtst as a 33gtr is 100kg heavier than a 33gtst. This is why I think 33gtst shocks will work fine in the rear. It's like having a family or car pooling. I do neither.

King springs are usually $120-150 to your door for a set. Cusco $140 from jap unsure on shipping probs $300 all up, stagea front $60-$100 to your door, and it matches the front with the sticker ha. Do you know if I could use my std tops on 33 bottoms? I've never seen either of them out of the car, I can't see why not? Why don't you think I should bother with kings? I know you can get teins that are $330 to door and front - 4.2kg. Rear - 3.6kg. I think these would be a lil stiff for the standard shocks and would bounce a lot. What do you think?

S15 tops with 33 bottoms for the rear? Couldn't I use my stagea std tops on 33 rear bottoms? Info from king springs and this thread: Front: Kdfl101sp - 380mm - 175lb - 3.125kg Kdfl101 - 360mm - 1st Inch 135 inch pound, remaining 180 Inch Pound Rear: Kdrs87 - 360mm - 195lb - 3.48kg Kdrl102 - lower than kdrs87 - 155lb Kdfl101sp & kdfl101 & kdrs87 has been used buy an awd stagea owner/customer of kings, and these are the measurements taken. I have bought a brand new 24mm rear swaybar kit and a 22mm front swaybar for very cheap. This should stop any camber/shock rubbing issues with hard cornering. Eventually I will get a stock front stagea strut brace to use in the rear. Kdfl101sp and kdrs87 are the springs I will be using. Unsure how it will handle with .32 harder springs in the rear as most people use softer rears. Is there anything anyone would like to add? Or disagree with?

Thank you wk! I've been checking a lot of catalogues and it said r32 gtst fronts fit and te rear 32 gtst is the same as a gtr A guy on eBay selling teins also told me r32 gtst fit front and rear. Could anyone else confirm?

What are the measurements for most of you running wide rims in the rear? Shock - rim, shock collar - tyre, rim - guard etc. on a 9.5" 245/35/19 mine are: 15mm rim to shock. 10mm shock collar to tyre. 5mm poke. Do most of you use standard struts with springs?

LOL I'm an idiot, no way they're fitting in the rear. Found a thread from '08 everyone agreed that gtr33 springs fit the front & 33gtst springs fit the rear. I'm guessing the is for an rs4s? Found another thread from the whiteline group buy 34gtr spring fit the front & 32gtr springs fit the rear. I'm guessing this is for an rs4 S1? I don't like wasting money buying things and finding out they don't work. Any help is greatly appreciated.

This is a picture from adams rear tein coilovers. Judging from the shock length and cir clips, it should lower my stag 2-3" before the cir clip will touch the tyre. What do you think? Yeah i know the rims are quite large form the rear, but they look amazing and i got them for a good price. I'm not willing to sell and buy new rims atm

My rims are 9.5" wide on the rear with 245/35/19. I measured the clearance: 15mm rim to shock. 10mm shock collar to tyre. 5mm poke. ride height: 400 front. 370 rear. The handling from 19" rims was outstanding, coming from 225/50/16 & 205/55/16 with 32 & 36 & 38 & 40psi. I've tried a few combos ha. and would like to keep these rims. I could use some 10mm spacers, but once BC's are lowered the spring would hit the tyre wouldn't it? Do you know the code off your teins? Their website doesn't list any springs for the skyline or stagea. Thank you again Bob you've been a big help with things!

Sorry! i can't edit my posts. I've read about 30+ pages and scoured the Internet for a few weeks and I can't find a definitive answer. I don't think i can use aftermarket coilovers as i only have a cm of clearance from the stock shock to the rim and i have a cm of poke so i can't use spacers. What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks? I've read a few threads where people say that 33gtr front springs and 33gtst rear springs fit the standard stagea shocks. But from reading these posts it seems as though they're confusing springs with shocks with coilovers, as everyone has said the 33gtst rears have a larger top hat. So in theory the springs will not fit the standard stagea shock? The stock stagea spring rates are Front - 2.9 & Rear - 3.1 Most aftermarket spring rates are in the mid 3's F&R So this should compensate for the heavier rear end? Please i really need some help as information is scarce! I would like to track the car, but it will probably never happen, most of my driving is at the posted 70kph with plenty of round abouts and sharp corners, I like the car to feel less boaty (rims made a huge difference), this is my reason for harder lower springs and sway bars. Just coilovers wont give as good of an upgrade, is this correct? I've tried to give as much information as possible. I've also emailed a few companies but have not received any replies. What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks?

For a s1 auto awd stag. Sorry

So I've read about 30+ pages and scoured the Internet for a few weeks and I can't find my answer. Ebach and whiteline don't sell springs anymore. And shipping from Japan is too expensive. What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks? I plan on doing sway bars and lowered springs. As my 9.5" rear rims are a finger gap away from the standard strut and I doubt coilovers will fit.

Yellow s2 c34 with bronze gtr34 rims at wyong servo and again on the f3. I would have waved and said hello but I was blown away with how good it looked! It was like a sexy ground hog day

Thanks for helping me yesterday and today, you were a massive help! Your stag is so clean IRL, Once I'm tuned I'll come down so you can see mine.

I've had some bad weather since my last post. and i haven't had any water leak into the cabin.

buy a new fuel pump and fuze, it would be handy to have one spare even if it isn't the problem.

It looks messy, but it 'should' do the job, and last for years. I read the green window holder was a culprit and you could push it with your fingers via the fan blower. (Having already taken it out twice, i could not be bothered to see for myself) The beaver panel rubber is another factor, if it's broken it will let too much water in causing it to pool and run back in under the window. If the drain gap is blocked, the same thing will happen. The window surround also needs to be firm and flat against the body and the window. Use screws instead of the clips, screws wont move and it sits firmer eliminating most of the water run off from entering under the beaver panel. I'm not 100% sure this will fix the problem, but from what I've seen and read this is the major cause of water leaking into the cabin. also use a silicone/glue that isn't harmful to rubber.

I've pulled the 'beaver panel' plastic panel under the windscreen out twice and i have siliconed and re seated/joined the rubbers around the affected area. i've taken pictures of where it is possible for water to get in, and what i have done to fix it... Fingers crossed it's fixed it.