Trex

My friend reco'd my drivers side for me, and helped do the whole job. The drivers side didn't need much prying at all, we probably could have gotten away with leaving the diff cover on. @Duncan You should give recoing one a go. We cut the boots off, soda blasted the inner case, used a punch and hammer to remove the inner cv bearing carrier off the spline, cleaned everything thoroughly and re greased. Very easy. Now there is zero shudder

They re uploaded it because of a few non blurred faces and plates.

These should still come with a dipstick. All new auto cars i have seen and worked on still have a dipstick. Look near the back of the engine.

@MJTru Bro, I wrote on the first page. Get some metal tabs, drill some mounting points, mark out 25mm drill some more mounting points. Now you have a caliper extension bracket/guide on exactly where the caliper will sit if you went with 350 rotors... This way will give you a definitive answer on whether the wheels fit. No need to hold the caliper and guess. Also read my post above. The 'kits' coming out of that company was down right dangerous. Also I've read all your other threads, you know you stuff. This thread is just funny though... Get your shit together

be careful with that companys 'kit' i remember them making this years ago, you have to grind and cut the caliper around the mounting point. It's dangerous and stupidity at its finest.. Not having a go at you. Just be careful.

As you already know. 324mm rotors with the brembos won't fit, if you went with 350mm rotors they probably still won't fit, but you can try this by spacing the caliper out 25mm and see if it clears the spokes. Otherwise its spacers time, but if you're like me and don't trust spacers with your life. It's new wheel time, something genuine, something that will last more than a year and still stay round.

I'll have to take some logs next weekend. Mine is on the cold side right behind the radiator and it heat soaks incredibly bad. If you turn the car off and come back a few minutes later and go to drive it feels like its around 60+deg and for me thats around -5 deg timing. It takes a long non stop drive for the power to come back slowly. Even though the sensor has an insulation seal, it doesn't stop the radiator heat from soaking into the sensor itself. I will be moving it to the chassis rails section of the ic.

I usually look at the cost of parts + my time at $100ph vs a shop. Usually i am forced to do it myself Sorry, but how do you get good prices from the shop? Last time i went in they wanted $500 just to put a timing belt kit on and 3k for injectors installed for a friend. $450 for a drive shaft... Among other times i've been in and sent mates there... I just can't in good conscious recommend them anymore... I've removed the shop name from your post. Thanks for trying to help though

haha same to me, the more i research, the easier it looks though. A machine shop would and should be able to whip something up a little oversize to help with stuffed inner cases etc. But I am not in the loop so would possibly cost an arm and a leg. So I've bought new boots and i'll inspect the bearings and see how i go Missed out on some reco'd driver side shaft last night by an hour was $120

Doesn't look like you can buy just the bearings online. I'll just re pack with grease and new boots and see how long it lasts I think. Unless someone knows someone who can get them?

Yah I called him yesterday. It's in the low mid 1000's for a drivers side as he doesn't have many left and mine wouldn't be exchanged. Now looking at rebuilding it instead. Just need to find the bearings and cage etc.

Guys settle down. It's just a video, no need to slander workshops or people just to get that stab in. Keep it on topic without dragging people down.

No ,thank you for commenting. I tried to find some new bearings for the inner cv, but I can't find any. Do you know where I can get some? The drivers side is dry as a bone haha The pass side had a failure 2 nights ago. It all of a sudden let go and I got some serious vibrations. But thanks to grant he gave me his reco one. For a reco I'll only need new boots, grease, and inner bearings? As I believe the outside cv is non serviceable?

This video makes me want to get an 88 and start racing people. Where do i sign up?

Passenger side found. Just need a drivers side.

Need rhs and lhs front drive shafts for a c34 stagea. I believe gtr 32 33 and 34 are the same? Msg me on here with what you have thanks.

Added some more photos and information.

Haha removed nothing at all. The pliers need to be about 1-2 feet long.

It's funny you say that. I've over priced things before and they sell instantly. Cheap usually = broken. Not in this case. I just want them gone.

Is anyone interested? I thought this was a cheap price, compared to what they sell for.

I know this is a few days old and you've probably already replaced it. But i just did this hose a few weeks ago. Get some LONG needle nose, a decent light, and a LONG flat head to help push the clip and hose off.

Canberra. Last line just before the photos

Rs261 made for the 32gtr Genuine BBS RS 261. All with tags and markings. They have gutter rash, but nothing serious. Tyres aren't usable unless you don't care about your life. They're round with no dents/eggs etc. I spent a few minutes polishing one lip without removing the bolts, the pitting isn't very bad and came up easily enough. I'm just not interested in cleaning them up and I've been busy. So i want these gone quickly and easily. PM me with any questions. $1500 Canberra

It's usually around $100 per wheel for sandblasting and coating. Check out dulux powdercoat for a small selection of colours. Those wheels turned out amazing!

be careful with swapping parts from different models, as there are so many varients between the same engines. i.e ej25, some have egr built into the head, headgaskets are all different etc.