Peanut92

Yes I am r100 How much runkos

Condition ? Kms ?

Swap these for standard orange ones Work fine just don't like the clear ones would rather orange Located campbelltown Thanks

But yeah wiring issues galore. And no one can sell me a gtr headlight. So not chasing gtst go back to stock f**k the projector anyways because I was informed with hids installed there shit anyways

There completely different They run a h4 high low and on the inner side run a foglight Parkers on the outside is the same If they are on your gtr most likely they are n1's as the gtst ones do not have tabs for the gtr grill That's the only difference between n1 and gtst Gtr headlights run seperate beam h1 in series 2 and h3c in series 1 for the low beam H3 in all high beams And No foglights in the headlights

Well this whole GTR headlight shit is a joke so now I need to find GTST headlights instead to try wire it up to how it was originally Located campbelltown Contact 0401312579 or pm

Suitable for rb20?

Thanks for the advice When you say I'll have a bad time( which is nothing unusual with this car) Are you referring to a cheap kit Would I have better luck finding a quality kit If so any recommendations

Guessed this was the write category if not just move it please admin So a there's no really good write up on installing gtr headlights into a gtst Going from h4 to h1/h3c I've pretty much worked it out. As someone did a bad hack job in mine and it doesn't work! I have no headlights highbeams are constantly on etc Question I have is what's easier to fit hids too the h1s or h3c headlights Cheers in advanced

Weekday price? Pickup today

Cheers gts boy Accept in my case I'm s1. Hicas but no airbag Hicas is locked Also it isn't that irresponsible kiwi. I believe airbags make things worse Good pretensioners and your fine. Were talking about a 20 odd year old airbag system Not state of the art shit Probably snap your neck on impact Lolz

Bump old thread? Only one that has the same question as me nobody has anwsered lol

I'm pretty keen. Both in perfect working order? And you said you had receipts for the highflow?

What a downer. Best price ?

$1800 keep the splitfires?

Unfortunately no Where's the best place to get a good one

Lowest price

No where on google sau or any skyline forum has anything to do with adjusting the window So my dilemma When I rolled my windows up after installing a new door shell the window would wind up and not slide into the seal but pop on the outside I noticed there's adjustment on the front bailey channel 12 mm nut on a stud that's adjusted with a flat head There's 2 on the rear bailey channel 2 felt guides And 2 height guides And another too centre to the door 10mm nuts not sure what these do I've fiddled around for the good part of 2 days Finally got it so the door closes properly with the window up ( sliding into the seal properly Then before I put the door trim on. I tested putting the window up while the door was shut. Lucky I did because once again it was hanging too far out at the top and not going into the seal After further tinkling I sorted that out But now when I drive it won't slide in properly. Only when I'm stopped More tinkling And I've got it anything 60km and under on a flat road it works fine but any faster or a slight bump won't let the window slide into the seal About to burn the car. Does anyone have the slightest clue to what I should be actually adjusting? Or can anyone tell me what each adjustment does. This will give me a better indication as to what I need to focus on Currently randomly moving different ones

So this will be a large post bare with me So my old door was f**ked. Giant dent in it. So I decided to replace it with a shell I got from "skyline parts" in Fairfield So I have a couple of pictures I'll try include them So getting it all off piece of piss as far as I remember my old door lined up fine. And I also had this little door guard (little plastic to help stop chipping my paint in carparks I guess). And this did fit perfect So got the door off and went to line up the new one. f**k me this was a pain in the arse. Couldn't get the rear gap right. Once I did. The door would sit out too far. And not flush with the rear quarter I then snapped a bolt in the chassis. Drilled that out back to square one. I finally gave in said fark it and lined it up all good but then still have the problem of the door not sitting flush Like so I'm a bit of a perfectionist with my work so this bugs me a lot although the photos don't do it justice anyways and it's much worse in person I spoke to the guy I got it from he insists the doors from an undamaged car so is should not be warped I have tried everything there doesn't seem to be adjustment on the latch striker or the door side of the hinges only the chassis side. If lined up perfectly with my old door. Would sit flush. And tight My passenger is still like this no movement when shut. And sits flush The new door does not obviously bit I can push it in and out a fair bit I've done the following Swapped the hinges to the old ones Removed the latch. And had the door sitting freely. To see if anything was pushing it out and yes. It needed me to hold it in to sit flush so I even slapped the old door on and it sat flush without me having to hold it From there I changed the rubber seal Changed the triangle that the mirror bolts on to and holds the front bailey channel in place hoping this is what was pushing it out. Nope still have the problem there Could it be the little arm that has the pin in it? Whatever that little things called. That a side I proceeded to wire up the electrics and decided to try fix the alignment later. Once everything was plugged in went to plug in my power window switch only to find out it doesn't match. Fark! So re wired it again assuming the old one was a series 2 loom. Meaning the doors series 2. Could this be a reason it won't line up? now my issue is getting the window lined up. I think I'm close. It sometimes gets stuck outside the top rubber I'm just tinkling with it Ever so slightly. Should eventually freely slide in and out. But is there any easier way to so this? Surely it couldn't be a pain in the arse Sorry if my posts a bit sloppy it's 1 am I've been at the car since 11 am and I'm tired sore and frustrated There are no DIY posts to door exchanges maybe I should right one up after this bullsh*t episode Something so easy is proving to be a nightmare Thanks in advance

Yeah sorry I posted them comments at the same time seems one didn't go thru till later I'll give them a call then cheers And yes IDE fire bullets in my backyard lol

Also whoever asked again I googled all last night. Without a straight answer. Hence this post

Lol so I get flamed anyways. This is why people don't post on forums anymore.... As for drifting in other places Blame the government and council I live along way from eastern creek. Oran park wasn't so bad until they canned it. I live rural on a low salary. Most times it's on my property anyways. People arnt stupid. I wouldn't be the only person who's cut loose somewhere other then a track. Just tried to give an idea. How much abuse the pads and rotors will see

Ok I have searched so please don't flame me. Nothing has shown up I. My searches with a clear anwser to my question So obviously car in question s1 33 gtst. Standard rotors. (Fronts are ok rears have a little lip) Brake pads have squeeled like a bitch when I got them. They have gotten worse (4 - 5 months of owning it). I remember having a quick look and they had heaps of meat so I assumed possibly shit pads it's only ever when it was cold. A few stops and she was fine Now every light every stop it's loud and getting on my nerves Now I drive my car pretty hard. And I drift on the occasion. Sometimes at the track. Sometimes at my personal area? If you want to call it that. (This car hasn't seen track yet.) I don't intend to do any circuit racing or anything that requires the breaks of a supercar So my question is Is it worth the money to get slotted and drilled rotors. And if so what ones are worth getting? To suit my needs as stated above And then the second is obviously what pads I've always used bendix as far as I know. Trying to get something with minimal dust and ZERO SQUEEL My budget is pretty mild at the moment. But if it's going to do me a great deal to get something a bit more pricey well I won't tight arse out But i would rather not waste money on discs and pads that don't help my situation I also do frequent burnouts But I'm not the type to ride my brakes down mountains until they are cherry Thanks in advance and please try not to flame me if that's possible

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