kwazza11

so what were the symptoms? was it groaning at all or just didnt engage?

that $300 for crank and rods was a price i got off someone in the for sale forum, look around and you'll always find a bargain. in the end i just bought a 31 with the rb24det already in it. but seriously the main reason for doing this isnt to make huge power, think about it, instead of spending 3k on a second hand motor with no service history and having to go to the trouble of changing engine no's and engineering engine swaps, you spend 2k and get a fresh motor. (spend the left over on better breathing cams or head porting?) besides, theres plenty of rb20's with standard heads making close to 300kws

hmm good point, on the hr31's the inner mount is adjustable for toe so perhaps if the inner bush and elongated holes were used on the outer... good stuff SK, i'll look it up :headspin:

well got any other ideas SK? from what i can see, theres not alot you can do with the trailing arm IRS in the hr31's to stop the huge camber changes apart from limit the travel with harder suspension...

i'd guess that if its making a high pitched screaming noise that it'd be an exhaust leak on the manifold side, check that all your manifold and turbo-manifold nuts are nice and tight. power loss could be an entirely different issue.

find out where the oils coming from first.. if its an external leak mabye an oil line is loose or cracked? if it was seals you'd generally see oil in the intake and exhaust sides, ie tons of oil in the intake piping or burning oil on the exhaust side.

bump - anyone?

actually knackaz is right, blue is oil, black is fuel and white is water/coolant. thats what i was taught at trade school by my lecturers who'd been in the trade for over 30 years so you'd think they'd be right. :headspin:

A46-000001 are moulded into the side of the brown section. also have "2 J 36 (what looks like a nissan symbol) 87 06" stamped around the top of the brown section.

Bought my car with these injectors, was told they were GTR injectors but i've just had a look at some GTR injectors and the ones i saw were o ring injectors! so wtf are these off then? hose tail with a brown top. anyone got any ideas? the car ran 12 injectors from a HKS ECU so 6 RB20DET jects and 6 of these..

have been browsing through the r31 house website and these came up, i've seen them before for other cars but just wondering what the hell they are and what they do?

hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows a website i can get some info on my turbo. its a kkk k27 but i'm pretty sure they made a few different types.. would like to know what it flows, etc. anyone got any ideas? cheers Karl

cheers for the info guys! answered all my questions and then some :burnout: reason i asked is im grabbing some bilstien shocks for my car and was thinking of getting some cusco camber tops. sounds like for alittle bit more camber i'm sacrificing alot of ride quality and reliability...

hey guys, well my turbo, manifold and wastegate are about to go back on but would really like to get it all cleaned up before i throw it all on, the wastegate especially has carbon, grime and general shit buildup all over it. what do you think i should use to clean it all up? can i just use degreaser or could that screw up the seals and valve in the wastegate? cheers Karl

hey guys, have noticed alot (if not all) of the japanese aftermarket coilovers have pillowball strut tops fitted, also seen them on castor rods for certain cars and was wondering what the advantages of going to pillowballs or rose joints instead of bushes are? is it simply to stiffen up the pivot points? cheers Karlos

definately condolences to all thier family and friends. it doesnt matter how it happened or whose fault it was, its a huge loss and the families and friends need only support and strength, not critisizm. RIP

heheh well the rb20det is a fair bit easier, all the needle bearings for the gears are captive so all you need to do is press off the old races and press the new ones on then slide it all together, theres a few specs you've got to follow like selecting snap rings to alter end floats but just grab yourself a workshop manual (i used an aussie r31 one) and its got a step by step walkthrough of putting it together. from memory theres differences like slightly different selector forks and dual synchros on the rb20 box but apart from that thier pretty similar.

yea its lasted fine.. i sold the car about 2 months after i rebuilt it (that was 6 months ago) and spoke to the guy a week ago who bought it and he recons he thrashes the guts out of it and its still perfect, and i wasnt kind to it in the last couple months either. but yea i refrained from high speed full throttle fun after that and used some good quality oil. cant remember the exact price but off the top of my head it wasnt anything over $200 for the bearing kit from CBC and 1st, 2nd and 3rd synchros were about $80 all up from nissan (trade price on both, cause i deal with them alot at work)

from my experiances VLT gearboxes are a fair bit bulkier than the rb20 boxes, just the physical size of the housings alone is different and from comparing the rb20 and rb30et gearbox main bearings shows the rb30et ones could definately handle more hp than the rb20det one. i put new bearings and synchros in my last RB20 box after it started rattling to shit after a few full boost 5th gear runs. i managed to totally destroy the main centre bearings, one of them only had 4 (!!) balls and half a bearing cage left between the races :chairshot hunted around for the bearing kits and found the rb30e (r31 and vl non turbo) kits to be the same as the rb20det. got the synchro's genuine as the rb20 box has double synchros for 2nd and 3rd. doit yaself man! best way to learn

hmm well it seems i've got only .2v at the igniter on the cylinder thats not firing (no 4). i take it the igniter is on the earth side and acts as a big resistor to tame the voltage going through the ecu? so i'd guess its the contacts inside the coil getting too worn. sound feasible?

hmm well i've lost two in the past two weeks, mabye the problem runs alittle deeper? i'm running r31 early eccs coilpacks and igniter with an r32 ecu, do you think the later model ecu could kill coilpacks? the igniter and coilpacks look identical to the 32 variaty apart from different electrical plugs on them. they stop working when they get hot only, so they dont entirely die (give it an hour and it comes back).

well i've had a couple coilpacks die recently and a couple people telling me the setup on the rb motors are prone to failure due to copping all the heat from the engine and dont generate a very strong spark. so i've started considering alternative spark setups. has anyone had much experiance in using different coilpack setups with the standard ECU? such as using external camira/bosch coils and leads and setting it up as a wasted spark system?

well think about it this way.. you can either get an rb25det from a 33 thats done probably 80,000 ks or you can build a fresh motor with .4 of a litre more (than the rb20). personally i'd prefer the fresh motor with Tomei forgies! but on another note the cars 16 years old with 60,000 kms, so it could of been done back in the 90's when rb25s were still fairly new and pricey. anyway i've got the best of both worlds! a huge turbo and a stroker! :headspin:

it was done in japan, to be honest i dunno why they did it! probably wanted the 6 extra injectors more, or mabye they did the same as zoom, tried it with them on, saw a loss so went to a single throttle? :headspin:

this thread's got me thinking about what i should do when my motor goes back together. ATM i've got an rb24det with standard bolt ons but to go back on it, is a k27, trust manifold and gate and a modded GTR manifold. mines alittle bit different though, its had the rb20det runners cut before the injectors and the gtr manifold has been cut and rewelded to erase the 6 throttles and keep the injector holes (uses 12 injectors, 6 gtr and 6 rb20), then the standard throttle has been mounted on the front. now you've got me thinking i should leave the standard manifold on and dont worry about throwing the gtr manifold back on, do you think zoom lost all that power from the 6 throttle setup, or the whole design of the manifold (shorter runners, plenum size etc)?