Ender

mate, where are you...Email me... check your pm [email protected]

If you like you could send me a set I'll do some tests and drive around with them and let you know if there are any problems... Cheers, Russ

Excellent...I understand...by the way does air escaping affect the A/F ratio at all...I gather it is too small an amount to make any difference..is this right? You don't normally need this restricter though...I know of numerous cars with up to 230 rwkw without needing this mod..they just use standard bleeders, I wonder what is causing this to happen on your car..let us know if you find out. Russ

Why do you need a restrictor? Isnt this what a bleed valve does...it controls what goes to the actuator. I thought that was the whole idea of a BLEED valve. If you just run a variable restrictor like a needle valve...then yes you need a vent or alternate route for the air for it to work... If you look at one side of your bleed valve you will see a little hole....this is the "restrictor" you talk about with the hole in it...this is a built in one... Russ

I believe that it is not the saving of money which is the issue but your choice of tyres and brakes which is important, if you can get the same quality for cheaper then hey ... Im all for saving money ...and all for having good brakes and tyres... I have been running a set of Falken Azenis tyres (they are a semi slick bottom range race tyre...too crap to race but too soft for the road type of thing) 225-50-16's for $190 ea. They have lasted about 10,000kms... not bad really. They are about as grippy as a normal tyre when cold, if you really go for a blast and get them warmed up they perform quite well. One of the main benefits is the stiffer sidewall, very predictable etc. Cheers Russ

I would suggest that more caster than they reccomend would be beneficial...also a little toe out on the front would be beneficial. I run: for and r32 gtst Front : -2.5 camber 1mm toe out +7-8 caster Rear : -1.4 camber 0 toe I have removed the hicas rack from the rear and I find that with the front set up as above it has more than enough grip to have the rear toe pretty straight....with the stock gtst setup I found the rear had great grip and would push the front into understeer very easily...had to run toe out on the rear to get the front to turn in. You really have to experiment a bit...make sure you keep a record of what you r settings are and note the differences in handling...then next time you get an alignment you will have a better idea of what might suit your car and driving style. Cheers, Russ

hmmm...did I actually get my wheels aligned...I think I have five...hmmm c'mon....I have a stressful job alright...its hard at uni. The third which I forgot to include for some reason...was bridgestone in airport west..they have an almost brand new computer and stuff they also did what I asked without too much fuss and got it right. Cheers, Russ

I have tried : rb74's ebc redstuff bendix ultimates and all of them faded when pushed on standard rotors... Pads which work well on standard rotors are Ferodo 2500 or 3500 or something..forgotton exactly which exact product number...they really work well on standard rotors but are quite pricey $450 or so i think they were. and on slotted rotors padgids are great, but not so good on standard rotors. Hope this helps.. Russ

When you put it on can you post the power gains and any increase in driveability etc...I am thinking about doing the same and would like to know what effect it has...do you have specs on port sizes etc after porting or is it just a general enlargement ... Cheers Russ

3 places I have found.... Mansons in bayswater..excellent they know their stuff Bob Jane in Ringwood...used to be owned by Jim Richards and the guys who were there then are still there and are good too.