Ender

People in the boot on a dyno is a bit different.....I understand squat is important for takeoff....hicas does not make your car squat....weight does (not an extra 15-20kgs) and weight transfer does...and rear suspension settings do and geometry of rear suspension does....having a lock bar as opposed to a hicas rack does not change the static geometry therefore how can it induce squat....(apart fromt he slight increase the 15kgs has...or is this the only advantage r31nismoid was proposing?). 1 tankof petrol is 50kgs not 15-20kgs so yes...i agree you would feel it... I wonder where the point where weight for traction becomes a liability for acceleration after traction is not an issue....ie obviously 200kg in the boot would give an improvement in grip on take off...but at half track you are lugging an extra 200kg which slows you down at this point.... whereas if you had least weight possible you would have less grip on takeoff but at half track you would accelerate faster due to less weight..... I wonder if anyone has done a graph or similar to find the optimum points for a skyline??

If you were gonna drag would you load up wityh some extra weight in the back seat or boot? I generally see people unloading weight....I am genuinely interested as to why you are of the opinion hicas would make any noticeable difference to takeoff... Cheers, Russ

what 20kg's less will induce less squat? c'mon...noone is gonna notice that, Are you suggesting that this weight diff and the effect this has on traction is an issue? I think you'd have to get an absonlutely perfect launch for that to be an issue, its less weight than a spare tyre... I definitly wouldn't say your car is gonna Squat differently with or without hicas...20kgs as a percentage of the weight transfer of a car launching off the line to do a 13sec qtr must be negligable?? Russ

How can hicas change how your car squats?? It cant affect your traction in a straight line....Allit does is make the car have a safer understeer characteristic in corners when pushed hard. Please explain...... Cheers

Just thought I would use the rb20 g/box til it broke, then get a 25, haven't looked at prices for 25 g/boxes though...can prolly afford one at a pinch...may have to go the cheaper h-p-inabox clutch too then rather than a os unit.... Thanks,

I am not chasing a particular hp figure, at this stage, at first I will be happy with whatever a fairly stock bottom end and head with a gcg or similar turbo, 550cc injectors gtr cooler and 3" all the way exhaust will give me more than what I had anyway....(more smiles) I have heard that the os giken twin plates are quite good, happy to spend 1200 ish prolly...I assume a rb30 clutch will fit into rb20 bell housing, it must, they are all pretty similar housings.... I also assume that the rigoli 4k drive in/out thing is for a 33 gtst not a 32. That way they get the heads and other stuff off your car and keep the bottom end etc... Thanks.

I need to know 2 more things, I assume I need to have a new front or dump pipe made to cover the extra distance in height on the rb30 block....yes or no... And what clutch will fit behind this engine and people have found reliable, which will fit my rb20 Gbox for a start, I assume it doesn't matter about the G/box though. Thanks,

Might as well just buy a Tomei engine in a box, Prolly cheaper, unless you are gonna do all the work yourself....I had a look down that road....heaps cheaper places to get power than the setup you have proposed....still be a good donk once you're finished though.... With all those mods why go a mild cam grind, why not go the whole hog, dont they make a 270? Maybe include a decent oil pump too. Cheers,

Lowlux...my engine is already out thats my motivation to get going....not sure if I can build the engine myself?? never done it before, have a good idea but?? I would probably get someone else to actually hook all the electrics up and start it and tune it etc...I cant do that. But yeah new stuff is cheap so prolly better off.... Thanks

I just see people reccomending 9:1, due to improvements in turbo technology...maybe 8.3:1 is better for an everyday car anyway?? Thanks,

Also could someone please attempt to clarify for me how much difference there would be between a CR of 8.3:1 and 9:1 in feel...I just want to know if it is a different engine with the higher or if it is just a good improvement in low down power etc... Thanks, I know describing this is hard please give it a go you guys who know... Russ

Anyone know if they fit into a r32 gtst tank....is this the same as a silvia tank fitting?? I need one, happy to buy in with you if I can find out in time. 044...try $550 or so when you know someone!! Russ...

Theres a strange combination of cars in the garage... Heavily modded GTR skyline & Lada Niva.....Those bastards are uncomfortable but you can go many places..hahaha Russ

Alright, I have read all the posts here, fantastic, this thread should live foreva... Heres what I am planning... I have seen numerous series 2 engines for sale for 600 or so, rebuilt with reciepts 20000km ago ..sort of thing... Use the bottom end off this motor...do nothing to it, botl on a stocker rb25de head.....have yet to find which turbo will be best for me, but spend the cash and get a top notch gcg or similar... Then...at my leisure...build a better bottom end, with better comp ratios as per recommendations on this thread, and swap it in later. I figure the increase in power and drivability of the stocker option will keep me more than happy for some many months... Now a couple more queries...do I need a different dump/front pipe because of the small increase in height of the rb30 block? I will prolly use my rb20exhaust manifold.... Thankyou for any input.... Russ

Ok so the rb20det inlet manifold fits onto an rb25de head ok, does the exhaust manifold from a 20det fit too or not? OK I will be doing this option...much cheaper than rb2.2 and I can flog off rb20 bits too... Thanks for all your help guys, very helpful info Russ

Thats a bit low mate...floggin off the startreks to fund the car bits ...I'd buy them if I didn't have to buy my car bits too.... bump Cheers, Russ

Supras are great...gotta love the way the dash all curves around to the driver....Too heavy though....love the engine though, very torquey and so smooth... Russ

Yeah 1 is good too, hell they are all good....those punks have too much cash...oh and huge balls too..... Russ

Cause when I signed up I didnt realise I would be here for so long....I chose a stupid name...the first thing that popped into my head...dont want all my initials on display thats all. Why do you ask? Is this unusual? Cheers,

well they paid the highest price for that didn't they....

everyone has to drive a shitter pre 78 corrolla with no bigger engine than a 3K for one year, then you can graduate to a stocker datto 1600 then to a modded datto then to whatever you want..... Hows that for a plan?? Cheers

I was gonna get someone else to do it, no time at the moment.... What about the farication required? new pulley placement, will my alternator and p/steer pump bolt straight on? I have an rb20det fuel rail and 550cc injectors, was wondering if I could use these, on a non vct head, If I use the standard exhaust manifold off rb20 then I could use any TO3 flanged turbo right?? Cheers,

Sydneykid...how much would it cost to get a rb30 built? just ball park, no special bits, no turbos but ready to bolt turbs on, just a stock rb25 head non vct and a stock rb30 bottom end?? I am so in two minds now about building an rb2.2....I'm sure it would be nice and all but couldn't cut it even compared to a stock rb30 with a stock rb25 head and a turb to match.... If its not too much trouble for a ball park price..., Thanks...

Yeah I bought a pair of 255 17's off the bridgestone guys in airport west for $365...they also do a proper alignment too... Russ

I think if you drive them easily they would last 10,000km no probs... If you are going to drive easily ...put normal tyres on...you wont notice the difference....dont spend the money for semi slicks... If you are going to drive hard....then buy the semi slicks...but they wont last long... The point I am trying to make is...unless you have endless money supply (which you may have) get a second set of rims to have the semi slicks on and put them on when you want to hoon.... Cheers...