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Everything posted by Ender
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Anyone see the suby crash in the western suburbs this morning....man that car is mashed good..... Huge intercooler in the middle of the street with the piping attached and the reast of the dar strewn all over the place...reckon they might have been speeding.. AWD didn't help him there.... Russ
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I wasn't gonna tel anybody...but before I pulled my engine down I got handsomly owned by a bloody turbo sigma !! My thing would have probably pulled a 13.9 down the qtr at best....I got owned by about 3 carlengths to 130 or so..... You cant tell til you race...I cant handle losing so am building a better engine....when I find him I'm gonna paste him...
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yep, I believe you can fairly easily anticipate and allow for other peoples mistakes. I guess if you had a fairly catastophic blowout or mechanical failure you may be excused...so maybe not fullstop...but almost. In my job I have the opportunity of reviewing many car accidents and I would say 99.99999% of them are due to preventable driver error. Mate people mostly do a really stupid thing or aren't thinking....most accidents shouldn't be called accidents...they should be called stupids. Point taken though...
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dosen't cost too much either, just have to drive it in daylight hours and only to and from the workshop etc...something like that anyway...
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Anyone who loses it on the freeway fullstop is a dickhead...it dosen't get much easier than driving up a five lane divided bitumen rd does it??
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Have 1 turbosmart bleed valve....$75 plus postage, done about 1000km on the car....selling cause doing a rebuild and wont need it.... pm me if youre interested... Cheers
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Thats easy to picture...Thanks for that.
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If you are gonna mod the suspension and you like driving corners fats and track days are your thing...get a 32...lower center of gravity, and lighter, they are easier to get to go fast round corners.... seeya
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I was thinking of doing mine too...any pics of any baffled sumps?? or confused sumps.... Any help appreciated... Cheers, Russ
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Cr34tion...I believe if you took your car on the track you would shave many seconds off your time with a few suspension mods...to get the same time from pure power mods would require significant increase in power....If you do a few of the things listed here to your car I gaurantee you will swear you are driving a different car....good luck with the research. Russ
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Yes...neg caster may not induce desireable handling characteristics hahaha... On a 32 gtst I am of the opinion that there is almost no such thing as too much camber...within reason of course...I have run 3.5 with success...track yes....but if you are a spirited driver and like driving mountain rds quickly then I dont think 2-2.5 is unreasonable.... I am guessing though with standard suspension, camber may be around .5 or so?? and more neg would improve handling by a lot... I should qualify a little too....I dont have hicas any more which means I need more grip in the front for a neutral feel relative to a car with hicas... You can buy second hand adjustable caster rods for 250 or so....not too expensive. I think we need to be mindful too that a roadcar often does not have the level of tyre grip to make use of nil body roll and an overly stiff suspension setup.....It can make a car quite skaty etc... But overall I agree with what you say on the whole, there are a number of ways to approach suspension mods, depending on cash and what you want to end up with.... Cheers, Hope this is helping cre4tion?? Oh I have Tein HA and I dont find them to be too hard....They are hard but they are also very compliant, they do seem to soak up bumps quite well, they certainly do not crash at all. Russ
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What do you mean by OK camber? It may be ok, but not optimal for excellent handling? I meant being able to adjust the camber to say Neg 2 degrees or so caster out to neg 9 or so ....gives the front of your car a stable predictable feeling and also increases the grip and turnin... I agree, adjustable sway bar should be included in there. Prolly quite a bit cheaper than adjustable camber arms...upper or lower...very good bang for buck too... I guess the point I was trying to make was that people imediatly go for springs and shocks which, dont get me wrong, improve the handling. There are however other alternative routes to upgrade suspension which IMHO offer better bang for buck and a better platform to later upgrade springs and shocks, wheels and tyres etc... Anyway, blah blah blah...nothing everybody hasn't heard before... Russ
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If you are gonna drive the car hard around corners and stuff then get a 32...they are lighter and are easier to mod to get to go around corners quite quickly... If you want more of a straight line car, with a bit more luxury then go the 33....easier to get a bit more power (I think), but heavier etc... 33 probably has more bolt on engine bits available readily...32 you have to look around a bit harder sometimes. No room in the back of a 32...33 has more... Basically if youre a man get a 32 if youre a boy get a 33... Russ
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I suggest for a start you should leave the oem suspension and install...adjustable caster rods, and get adjustable camber at least at the front.... Even eith the oem suspension This will arguably improve the feel of the car and the handling by a greater margin than aftermarket springs and shocks without these other mods....especially if the oem stuff is still pretty new and working properly...if it is shagged then different story... Food for thought....
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yep...I'll have one thanks...keep me posted.... Cheers, Russ
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Malpassi Adjustable Fuel Regulator
Ender replied to benm's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I'll stick with the new one for that price...thanks... Cheers, Russ -
Malpassi Adjustable Fuel Regulator
Ender replied to benm's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
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Malpassi Adjustable Fuel Regulator
Ender replied to benm's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I'll give you $150 plus postage.... Cheers, Russ -
Easiest way to remove welch plugs pls...
Ender replied to Ender's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
hmmmm...one went in...doh...will have another go at getting it out later tonight.... What to do if it wont come out?? I am assuming a hot dip would not disslove it... Thanks for the tip, Russ -
Easiest way to remove welch plugs pls...
Ender replied to Ender's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Haha...wasn't sure if they would spin or not....dont want them to go inside....(I presume its a prick to get them then...) Thanks for that...on with the job then... Russ -
You have PM.....
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Hi all, What is the easiest way to remove welch plugs from the block?? I assume I should replace these in a rebuild....When I buy new ones are there better ones and crap ones or is a welch plug a welch plug and thats all there is to it?? Thankyou, Russ
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I had potenzas in mine...they were basically a Tokico shock rebranded.... Russ
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Hi there, Brand new T100 Never removed from box...from upgraded contract...my phone still works so am keeping it.....hence T100 is for sale..... Sell $100...RRP $230 Will send anywhere anytime just email me.... [email protected] Dont have any pics of it as it is in the box...just look on the ericsson website for more info.... Cheers, Russ
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no good going if you cant stop either!! Brakes first...if you cant cop that with funds then you should wait and do both together.... Been there with power and no brakes and it is not good...it will catch you out when you least expect it. Cheers, Russ