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Ender

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Everything posted by Ender

  1. I guess you could put solid alloy ones all the way around...or pull the original rubber bushes out and securely mount the subframe to the body at a suitable angle...that would be a better longterm solution... Russ
  2. Engine is out, g/box is off...bought an engine stand for 50 bucks yesterday, used a chainblock to get the engine out...peice of cake really...easier than putting it back in I reckon... Pulled the turbo off, will sell it as I will get a better one (that could be almost anything haha) when I build the engine... Cheers, Russ
  3. Tight is good...until now!! Thanks gtst vspec...I'll have a go with an electric gun... Cheers, Russ
  4. Ahhh just read the post properly, it was in reference to the front pineapples, not the front suspension.... Sorry... Cheers Russ
  5. Someone in this thread said something about pineapples on the front...I dont think there is anywhere to apply them to the front suspension..they are just to modify the angles and geomtery of the rear subframe...just run stock wheels on the front with the lightest 205's you can get, the lighter the better. Russ
  6. I have tied a 1 metre extension on my socket...The heads of the bolts are very short and the socket dosen't stay on the head of the bolt very easily...bugger they are really tight... Any other ideas.... Cheers, Russ
  7. Hi all, How tight are the flywheel bolts done up? I cant seem to get these undone...is there a good method, I have tried a couple of ways...is a rattle gun the best way? I dont have one of these.... Cheers, Thanks Russ
  8. you have pm.... Cheers, Russ
  9. I believe it is not a matter of older...the engine has to meet emission standards of the year the car came out or better....therefore most older engines are not suitable cause they cant meet those standards...however the engine you are talking about may well be ok... To be sure just give an engineer a call...they can tell you straight away what the requirements are. Russ
  10. Why is the rb25 more??
  11. Hi all, Wondering if anybody has a weight of an rb20det and also how much the gearbox weighs Thanks Russ
  12. Tell him he's dreamin.... He's probably been racing rb25de 's with gtr bodykits... Hows his clutch...If he has smoked so many he must have replaced his clutch about 10 times...really... Russ
  13. extra .2 will give more torque and more power thru more capacity...nothing startling there, also might as well because it is just as easy to do 82mm bore and still undecided as to whether I will use rb20 crank or rb25 crank...they give 2.2 or 2.3 litres respectivly(roughly). just about to actually remove the engine from the car right now....crosses fingers. going to try and get the engine and gbox out in one go. Russ
  14. hahaha...I work in an emergency department...athough I guess we do fix stuff (people) do rebuilds and put people back together...similarities to automotive could be drawn at a stretch... Cheers, Russ
  15. If you have enough power is it actually better to have longer gears so you dont waste time changing gears....ie you have enough power to spin the wheels way too much all through second and into third anyway... If you had a very low ratio diff like a 5.1 it would technically accelerate faster in gear but you might have to be in third to get to 100km/h...wasting time changing gears and much wheel spin...if you had a 3.9 or a 3.7 you might just make it to 100km/h in first?? You have to have enough power though... Not too sure Russ
  16. Yep..like a new cat that works and stuff...
  17. Yeah...launch control would help...blast the muthas.
  18. Man, If anyone ever sees or catches one of these ****ers call me...I have had too much shit taken that I worked hard to get....I am angry for you man.... Russ
  19. You know I just had an idea.... All Skylines Australia members couls put in like 10 bucks each and we could get a heap of standard crap so when we get hauled in for a test or road worthy we can go get the standard wheels exhaust etc etc and bolt it on, then when you done take it off, and the next poor sap can use it..... Russ
  20. You just need to get off the line better... Pineapples... Adjustable rear upper arms... maybe bigger rubber rear but you could just try really good rubber first... good clutch...lighten the flywheel while your changing it... Maybe a mechanical diff if you're really serious or lock it if your too serious. You may need more power but even iof you do later, you will still need these mods to get the power down effectively, they are cheap (relativly to some of the engine mods suggested above) and will get you off the line like a rocket... I think you would be surprised at the difference this would make. cheers russ
  21. brackets that need to be made...small things that dont fit cause youre using diffent engine bits...larger injectors, bigger turbo, upgrade gearbox to handle the power, Its always going to be more expensive to build because it is not a standard engine so things will have to be machined more and modified more than if you built a standard engine. Russ
  22. I dont do it for a living... i want to do it for a change from what i do for a living.... a 3 litre would be good but...very expensive when you add all the little extras in... Cheers, Russ
  23. I got rb20det one if you are still chasing one 150 dollars. Russ
  24. Ender

    WTB Turbo

    Have standard rb20det one if thats what your after. Russ
  25. Pull the engine to its component pieces, remachine block and head, new pistons, rods, valve springs, etc and put it all back together again.... Yep DIY this time... Cheers
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